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Timing degrees My RPM is jumping high and my Speedometer won't work what is wrong with it?

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  • 966 Answers

How old is your vehicle?
Appears to be cable problem. It might have snapped or got disconnected and needs connection/replacement.

Posted on Jul 16, 2013

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Speedometer and RPM thing not working.

Make sure you check the battery, starter, and alternator. You can take your car to autozone, napa or advance auto parts, they can check it for you for free. let me know

Posted on Oct 04, 2009

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SOURCE: Electrical problems. Car won't start.

Hello and welcome to FixYa!
It can be a disconnected or loosen battery connectors. As a first course of action, I strongly suggest that you tighten the negative battery connector. Please do check the body ground to the body as well. If possible add more body ground and observe how it goes.
Hope this helps and thank you for using FixYa! Have a good one!

Posted on Aug 23, 2011

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SOURCE: My Titan won't rev over 1500 rpm what's wrong?

Normally I look at timing as this issue but being that new it is unlikely. Check the MAF sensor and PCV valve as well as the Vacuum system for leaks. After that it becomes an issue of the valves or compression. Do a compression check to see if your compression is good and check if you have a compression leak. If you have any issues in your compression your going to have issues building RPM. It is possible the issue could be a Cam Position sensor or Crank Position sensor but you would have a check engine light if either of those conditions existed.

Posted on Aug 25, 2011

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SOURCE: speedometer and rpm gauge won't work

Have you checked the fuses? Without knowing all the details I would guess fuse or ground out somewhere along the line. Also chk to see if the needle is stuck under the pin. Although unlikely it does happen. I hope that helps you to solve your problem.

Posted on Nov 11, 2011

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SOURCE: 2007 Buick Rendezvous rpm's keep reving up and speedometer goes crazy

You say your "RPM's start going high".. Are your RPM's going high (Engine rotating faster, or is it just your tachometer that is going high, a lot of difference there, Please Clarify..

Posted on Aug 30, 2012

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Whats wrong with Helen?

The speed sensor might be bad. I used to own a 99 Mitsubishi Eclipse with the same symptons. The car will start, but will not pass the 1st or 2nd gear, the speedometer will be at 0. I replaced the speed sensor and all the problems went away.

Apr 29, 2014 | 1995 Honda Civic

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Stop pinging vl commodore

pinning( detonation) is spontaneous combustion ( untimmed fire) . IT happens as the fuel / air mixture self ignites and the pressures are on the piston as the piston is coming up and that slams the piston hard against the cylinder wall. You have the timing way too far advanced and the CPU cannot retard it to adjust to the circumstances and the air/ fuel mixture that will be far too lean. At 15 degrees advanced you are not gaining anything as the CPU advances even further with the high RPM\'s .Set the engine to 10 degrees advanced and let the CPU take care of the rest . You should have knock sensors and they tell the CPU to adjust the fuel and timing to prevent detonation. If you want the car to jump at the lights then fit a high torque at low rpm\'s cam. You will not have a lumpy engine but when you get to go it will go with out all the drama that you now have . The octane rating has little to do with detonation and in fact may even make it worse as the burn rate is increased slightly with out any benefit for what you want. To sum up what you have is the fuel/ air mixture igniting in the cylinder as the piston is coming up before the spark occurs. It occurs from wrong mixture ( too lean) and timing wrong and if you continue to run the engine as you are it will melt out the tops of the pistons.

Mar 05, 2014 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

.Engine stalls, won't idle, bucks at 3700rpm

Sounds like mass airflow sensor to me or your timing jumped. Probably high miles too, eh? Could possibly be voltage regulator but I highly doubt it.

Jan 16, 2013 | 2001 Ford Explorer

1 Answer

Have a 2002 Cadi deville, replaced the speedometer sensor because the needle was jumping. Now the speedometer won't work at all.

sounds like your in the area could be a bad sensor or a bad wire that your moving around when changing the sensor

Jul 20, 2012 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Speedometer and rpm gauge won't work

Have you checked the fuses? Without knowing all the details I would guess fuse or ground out somewhere along the line. Also chk to see if the needle is stuck under the pin. Although unlikely it does happen. I hope that helps you to solve your problem.

Nov 11, 2011 | 1996 Chrysler Town & Country

1 Answer

I have a 86 chrysler fifth ave and is slugish off the line, done alot of work including tune up and setting timming. Im a mechanic by trade but im stumped. any ideas?

Things that get overlooked as even an experienced maechanic may find low cranking compression and theirs no leak down during a leakdown test. ( you did one?). The cam timing can be retarded due to wear (streach) of the timing chain and gears. Warranty Info Timing SetPart Number: 9-1103 Manufacturer: CLOYES GEAR & PRODUCT Ft. Smith, AR 479-646-1662384879731.jpg The chain can be checked by removeing the valve cover and locating the intake valve for the number one cyclinder. The valve is closed if you can turn the pushrod with your fingers. Turn the engine forward( in the normal direction of the engine turning) and as you approch the timing mark the intake pushrod should tighten( not be able to turn) 15-10 degrees before top dead center, at the end of the exhaust stroke. (if it's not on the exhaust strke turn it another full turn forward. As the timing mark starts to show on the gauge ( timing mark for setting the spark timing) the intake valve should tighten before top dead center. With the distrubuter cap removed and the engine turned to top dead center you should also be able to turn the engine backwards and the distrubutor rotr should move as soon as the engine ( backsup,Reverse turn) 5 not more than 10 degrees. if it's behind top dead center or moves more than 10 degrees free withoput turning the distrubutor, then the timing chin is too loose. It'll still run good at high RPM as the chain will fly out and tighten at higher RPM it'll just have low power at low RPM and may have less cranking compression. These engines in good time and the engine not badly worn out ( blowby, found with leakdown test) will have 150 PSI cranking compression. The timing chain in the picture is adjustable. You can advance or ****** the engine straight up or 3 degrees advance or ******. One whole tooth on the upper gear gives you 6 degrees so you can time it in any direction in 3 degreee junps. Hotrod is 20 degrees before but high RPM might suffer. 10-5 degrees will have the best high RPM power but will have slow acceleration at low RPM. ( Long track race engines are tuned this way and they just Idel real fast and ride the clutch at high RPM's to get up to speed) 15-18 is a strong timing and you can test it with out putting it all together by doing a compression test as soon as you get the chain on. The highest compression will give the best idel power and off theline acceration but don't go over 20 degrees as you'll play hell with spark ping and overheating. Rember to check the spark timing carefully after putting in the new chain as it'll change it too. You may find a new chain stright up timed will be right at the best possible setting ( check compression). It's easiest to do all this work with all the sparkplugs out and just compression test the number one cyclinder. Before doing any work like I describe, You said your a regular mechanic, so you all ready checked acellerater pump in the carb and set idel mixture with the prpane meathod as outlined on the under hood sticker. and remove the vacume hose ( make sure it has good vacume all the time( not hooked up wrong)) from the aircleaner mounted computer. Should say lean burn system on it. Make sure all the vacume hoses are connected as the underhood sticker says and make sure all ( all) vacume switches are working, ( open to air cold and connect the two hoses hot) some are the oppisit but they should all change with temperture. Depending on the market built for these switches can be just one or for some califoria certifed cars 4. When you get it right with either the cartyer or the rocdchester 4 barrel carb as you snap the gas all the way open at idel it'll pop open the four barrels all the way and not bog at all. If it'll do it ( exhaust is'nt stopped up) it'll spin the tires till you let up off the gas ans it'll shift all the way out still spinning. I worked at the dealer when this car was new and only a few of them were tuned up this way from the factory. But they all can be tuned to run this way. The cam timing was off on brand new cars, and I reset a bunch of them under warrentee, whole shipments of cars. work all day everyday on the same thing differnt car or pickup.

Jul 26, 2011 | 1986 Chrysler Fifth Avenue

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