Question about 1996 Buick Century

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Brake power booster and what it will cause if its going out

What would happen to my car if the brake power booster is going out? would it cause the car to stall out in reverse...and in drive? and would the emergency switch being turned on allowing the car to then idle just fine have anything to do with that.....

Posted by on

1 Answer

Only get a vacuum leak, if the booster check valve
failed & may effect the idle,not sure if it would be enough
to stall out the motor
What is the emergency switch? Parking Brake warning light?
That wouldn't have any effect on the engine idle

Posted on Jul 16, 2013

6 Suggested Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

csmock132
  • 4669 Answers

SOURCE: my emergency light is stuck on and my car locks up after 5 feet

Have you checked the fluid level in the master cylinder?

Posted on Apr 10, 2009

  • 335 Answers

SOURCE: 94 Buick 3800 Sometimes stalls when I use the brakes

Check the EGR valve. Sounds like the three stage EGR valve is acting up. Look for any discoloration around the valve ports. This valve is located on the intake manifold near the throttle body.

Posted on May 27, 2009

jsmes1027
  • 749 Answers

SOURCE: On a 1997 Buick Lesabre,

Typically when the brake booster goes bad an indication would be a rock hard brake pedal that you would have to apply overwhelming pressure on the brake pedal to stop the vehicle if it is leaking vaccum.Something you can easily try would be to temporarily remove the cover over the engine which just requires you to take off the oil fill tube which unscrews like the cap.Take that cover off and follow the air induction tube that runs from your air cleaner to the throttle body.Right on top of the throttle body should be the mass air flow sensor unplug it and start the vehicle too see how it then runs.If it smooths out then there is a definite problem with the mass air flow sensor (maf).It should take just a few minutes to verify this yourself and if it does need the maf sensor replaced it is pretty easy to do as well.There are just 2 tamper proof torx holding it in place.The maf sensor looks like just a rectangle about 2 1/2 inches long x abount 1 1/2 inches. It is a very common problem on these engines. Unplugging will turn the check engine light on. Please feel free to ask any other questions.Will be glad to help out.

Posted on Sep 02, 2010

hepcars
  • 1249 Answers

SOURCE: no brakes I think the booster was going out

Have you lost brake fluid since changing the pads...? Did you have to bleed or disconnect the brake lines when installing the pads? Sounds like a fluid leak...you should be able to trace this...If no fluid leak, did you open the system at all when installing the pads? If so, probably air in the lines...let me know if you need help bleeding both front sides...If no exposure to open lines, and no fluid loss...then the master cyclinder is bad...probably not the booster...let me know:)

Posted on Dec 13, 2010

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: tach. drop's to zero while driving 70 ?

I have had the almost same problem twice. A 'thump', like the engine missed a fire and tach drops. Seems OK after restart. Electrical? Timing chain slip?
Has 135,000 mile. Any clues?

Posted on Jul 05, 2011

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Brake failure


If you are talking about the brake pedal being stiff and too hard to push, then working easily again - it sounds like you temporarily lost the power assist. This will happen again and it is not safe to drive until properly repaired.

Many decades ago cars had no power assist and took much more foot pressure and much longer distance to stop. So your brakes were working, just not the assist.

The power assist is provided by a vacuum line from the engine. The likely causes of the failure are: stalling or stopped engine, leak in hose from engine to brake assist booster or leak in the diaphragm inside the brake booster. There are also other much less likely causes from brake fluid lines and the master cylinder. Regardless, don't drive knowing the brakes are likely to fail.

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Hi George, Your problem very well may be caused by the booster failing. The problem could be a broken or loose connection of the pipe or one way valve between the intake manifold and booster. A leaking intake manifold gasket could also result in booster failure. I suggest taking the vehicle for diagnosis and repair as soon as possible. Another common fault in braking systems is failure of the return seal in the master cylinder. If that happens the common symptoms are a hardening of the brake pedal together with the brakes locking up after a few applications of the brakes. Regards John

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