Question about 1999 Ford Super Duty F 550

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Can you replace the push rod on the clutch slave with a longer one, I have a bent clutch fork.

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  • Ford Master
  • 5,495 Answers

This is a hard question to answer because you are driving with a damaged part and any Certified Mechanic would tell you that the clutch fork may be torn with metal failure.
There should be some adjustment, if not, you would first need to determine what length the rod would need to be to work.
Thinking "outside the box" there have to be alternate rods for trucks with lift kits. Raising the body off the frame must make changes to clutch components necessary. You may find what you want from businesses dealing with 4x4's and lift kits.

Posted on Jul 16, 2013

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

nightwolf364
  • 48 Answers

SOURCE: Stuck in 5th gear

That just recently happened to me. If your stick wont move into any of the gears, then you need a clutch. But if you can shift into the gears but dont go anywhere, then you need a new transmission.

Posted on Jan 22, 2009

  • 4 Answers

SOURCE: need to know what i'm

it should pull towards the front of the vehicle.

Posted on Dec 31, 2011

ercupa190
  • 12223 Answers

SOURCE: lost schematic for gas pump float rod. how is it bent on a 2001 expedition

go to www.autoelectronico.com and download the schematic for your model.

God bless you

Posted on Jun 22, 2012

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Have you adjusted the push rod at the clutch pedal correctly? You should have a slight bit of free play at the pedal.

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The axle job should not have caused any problem to develop in the clutch.
I don't see how they could have.
If you can work the slave by hand, it may be a problem with the clutch master cylinder. Maybe the rod from clutch pedal into the master is bent or binding up and won't travel into the master. You could check if master operates easily by taking line off at the slave cylinder (or if not able to remove hose, then open the bleeder valve on slave) and see if your pedal operates now. Use a can to catch fluid if you don't want it to spill on floor. If the pedal still won't move it must be a problem with the master cylinder or the clutch rod.
If the pedal works with line removed, or the bleed valve open, then the release bearing inside the bellhousing must be binding up and not moving forward to engage clutch. (The slave cylinder pushes the clutch fork lever which pushes the release bearing forward on a shaft up against the clutch pressure plate to allow the clutch to operate .If the release bearing is the problem, the transaxle will have to be removed to fix it.
As I said, though, if you can operate the slave and the cllutch lever it pushes with your hand, it doesn't sound like it is binding down there. Check the pedal's push rod going into the master cylinder. Good luck.

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If you have a hydraulic clutch (slave cylinder to clutch fork) try bleeding it.
if it leaks you will have to replace it> If it is a manual clutch fork and the clutch starts to grab right off the floor the clutch is woen and will have to be replaced. You might also check the clutch rod for adjustment > in either case make sure the clutch rod is seated in the clutch fork.

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I have a 97 jeep wrangler. the slave cylinder came apart. the push rod came right out of the cylinder. does this mean my clutch is warn causing the rod to exceed out of the cylinder?


Hello, the answer is not necessarily, you have some other problem, was the bolts that hold the slave cylinder in place still intact, if yes than it is more than likely that the fork that the slave cylinder rod sits against (goes into the gearbox) is either worn, bent or broken or even the slave cylinder rod itself (unlikely). That fork pushes a bearing (thrust bearing) against the pressure plate in the front of your gearbox which engages and disengages your clutch plate, if that thrust bearing has come off by wear on the fork than it is also possible.

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on the transmission there is a slave cylinder that works like a brake cylinder, when you apply pressure to the clutch pedal a rod inside the vehicle under the dash pushes into a clutch master cylinder, (almost like a brake master cylinder without the reservoir, as the clutch master cylinder works off the brake master cylinders reservoir) the plunger in the clutch master cylinder applies fluid pressure to the slave cylinder,(located down on the trans near the clutch fork assembly) which projects a piston rod into the clutch fork dis-engaging the clutch. To bleed the clutch slave cylinder locate the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder,break loose so it loosens and tightens easily. Check fluid in brake master cylinder reservoir,fill if needed, while bleeder on the slave cyl is closed have a helper push clutch pedal to floor and back 7-8 times, (At first the clutch might stay at the floor, just pull it up by hand or foot and continue) after several pumps with no rest time push pedal to the floor and hold down with foot pressure, at this time loosen the bleeder on slave untill fluid leaks out, watch for air bubbles, close bleeder and repeat untill there is no sign of air bubbles, (make sure to check fluid in the brake master cylinder and keep fill as needed, do not let fluid get less than 1/2 empty as it might **** air and you will have to start over) If this does not bring clutch to operate then you need to check if slave cylinder is reachig its full extension of push rod or not. If it is not then you will have to replace the clutch master cyl or the clutch slave cyl or both as seals are bad and wont hold pressure. Or you need to inspect the clutch fork,the throw-out bearing, or the pressure plate fingers and clutch plate for failure or broken bent parts. I hope it turns out to be a easy fix on that clutching thing.

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1 Answer

Hard time shifting. replaced clutch slave cylinder. still shifts hard. plenty of clutch fluid.


Sometimes the slave cylinder takes a little extra bleeding to remove the air in it & until it's all gone, the clutch won't open completely, causing the problem you are describing.

If the shifting can be done between all of the gears while the engine isn't running on level ground then the forks should be ok & not bent inside the transmission and you should be able to get the car to shift properly.

I've done several of these and found that if you start by making sure the Clutch Master cylinder is full, and remember when you add fluid, try to add without aerating the fluid. Pouring down the side of a funnel is better than pouring straight into the container as fluid picks up air during the splash. Hopefully doing it this way will prevent small new air bubbles from getting back into the lines when bleeding.

Next, after having one person pump the clutch pedal quickly 3 or 4 times & continuing to hold the pedal to the floor until you've completed this phase, instead of just releasing the pressure through the bleeder valve, also push on the clutch fork/rod to go ahead & force the fluid completely out of the slave cylinder, tighten the bleeder and have the assistant slowly pump the pedal to bring the slave cylinder back into contact to where it was before you pushed it to drain it. Refill & bleed as usual a couple of times. If you don't have a good clutch pedal now with good release, you need to check the Clutch Master Cyliinder since once the bleeding is done, this is a completely automatically adjusting system. good luck

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