Question about Cars & Trucks
I have fitted a new multi v belt and a new tensioner on my skoda superb because it was bouncing and very noisy. Now when i put it on full lock the belt squeals. I have fitted a smaller belt but its the same. The alternator and power steering pump feel ok.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: fan belt replacement
Hey there tsukaska,
Remember: Good thing come to those who Rate!!!
Posted on Aug 05, 2008
go to autozone.com...they have a fix it yourself section that includes diagrams...believe it's under general information or maintenance
Posted on Aug 25, 2008
The squeal when first started is most likely coming from the alternator belt. You need to have the tension of the belt checked to make sure it is properly adjusted. If you had a shop due it have , have them recheck it. Or stop by a local shop and they shouldnt charge you to check it. But its all in how you ask, if you go in and tell them your problem most likely they will try to get you for a fee to diagnose it.Just ask to have them check the belts and make sure there tight.If its ok, has anyone tried to fix your sqeul by spraying anything on it? if so your belt could be slipping from the lube they used. there is one more thing you can try, providing all the pullys/ tensioner pully if equiped are straight. If it is a serpantine belt(flat/multiple grooves) not A v-belt
when the engine is off,you take a tablespoon or so of corn starch, yes the stuff in the yellow box in the kitchen, and put it on the inside oif the belt. Its acts like a dry lube. I learned this trick at the GM dealership, from a factory bu;lliton. good luck
Posted on Nov 29, 2008
Sounds like the adjustment may not be correct on the power steering belt, with the tension not being enough, after you replaced the belt ?
Try giving it a little more tension, and go from there.
Hope I have been of help.
Good Luck !
Posted on Jan 15, 2009
Most likely the problem is the lower steering knuckle. This is the one outside of the firewall, under the vehicle and it hooks up to the power steering assist cylinder. In my opinion the knuckle has to work at an unreasonably steep angle and this compounds the problem. The knuckle (especially in salt areas starts to corrode and becomes hard to turn. Toyota says the water gets into the bearing and they beings to rust the bearing and turning the whell starts to feel stiff. I have this problem and I sprayed liberal amounts of a rust inhibitor that a local place uses to rust proof cars (They sell small spray bottles of it for $5). They are called OIL TECH in Barrie, Ontario and make up their own formula. The formula has addatives that breaks the surface tension on the oil treatment and gets it into the tiny cracks and crevices on your vehicle. I sprayed this all over the knuckle, turned it back and forth a couple of times and continued spraying. I let it sit for an hour and went for a test drive -- problem solved. You could actually see the rust on the exposed parts of the knuckle. I probably will have to do this once every month of two but what the heck. It is a lot cheaper than having to replace the steering shaft ($1000+???) Probably other types of rust proofing or lubricating oils will work. I long for the old days of grease fittings and you never had to replace ball joints and tie rod ends etc.
Posted on Aug 10, 2009
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