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Remove ford 801 diesel tractor injector pump

I would like to remove the fuel injector pump from my 1963 ford 801 tractor

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6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 105 Answers

SOURCE: Diesel Fuel leak of of large nut in backside of injector pump

do yourself a favor and take the truck to a fuel diesel injection shop the larger nut is just a cover but the smaller one is an adjustment if you remove either on you could damage the pump

Posted on Jun 02, 2009

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DIESELMUDDER
  • 2760 Answers

SOURCE: replace fuel pump on 03 Ford F350 diesel

simple : obtain replacement pump from parts provider (no used stuff)

Now help me out here: thats the year they were bolted to the pass side front of engine
and not inside the tank right? (better go look to see for sure)

using a tube wrench unscrew the fuel lines (i use large wire nuts to temp block off fuel leakage)

with a 12 mm wrench undo the two side bolts holding the pump to block

wiggle pump it should come straight off

clean mounting place on block with solvent let dry

silicone back (or use gasket that comes with pump ) of pump

apply pump to block (depending on where crank stopped you may have some tension on arm you will have to overcome to get flange to meet block )

use locktite (blue)or simmiliar thread lock on bolts retighten firmly but not hang up the dog tight

use light grease or vasolene on tube connections don't try to tighten dry

Now the fun part your diesel now has air in the fuel system

there are two ways to remove this ( hard and harder)
your choice here are both methods

loosten the fuel supply line for #8 injector ( I did not say remove) 1 full turn ought to be enough

crank engine 30 seconds only
wait 5 minutes for starter to cool down
crank engine 30 sec again
did it start but runs rough while it's still running tighten #8 injector (caution fuel under high pressure)
engine smooth out good your lucky
engine did not start yet
wait 5 minutes
crank engine 30 sec again
start yet
if so tighten #8 injector up

Now here's something I've done to my diesel to make this much less a hasstle

trace fuel line as it comes up from pump
obtain a small low pressure electric fuel pump and a two short pieces of fuel line
and a few clamps

use tube cutter and cut fuel line just before it bends to go in filter
deburr edges
slide tube and clamps over pipe (both sides)
insert pump observe flow arrrow towards filter

the wires of pump can be stretched over to #1 battery terminals

now any time you change a filter or open your fuel system for any reason
all you need do is connect pump to battery
open sharader valve on top of filter for a few min
and start truck as normal
then disconnect wires and stow away for another day

Posted on Jul 08, 2009

  • 4 Answers

SOURCE: remove and install diesel fuel injector

First, keep everything as clean as possible. Contamination below 30 microns, which cannot be seen by humans, can destory a diesel fuel injection system. Clean everything off anything having to do with connections on the fuel system and cover any connections left open.

Begin by removing the intake manifold. This will remove the clips holding the injection lines passing underneath and around the intake runners. After removing the manifold, cover the openings in the cylinder head (I use wadded-up paper towels).

Next, remove the clips at the brackets on the injection lines closer to the injectors.

Loosen all of the injection connections at the injectors. Do not remove the lines.

You can remove the water crossover tube if it is in your way, but drain about a 1/2 gallon of coolant before your remove the crossover.

Remove the oil fill tube from the timing cover. Turn the engine clockwise, using a 15/16" socket and ratchet (or breaker bar) on the center bolt of the crankshaft. As you turn the engine over, a bolt will show up at the opening where the oil fill tube was removed. Remover the bolt and keep turning the engine over until you have removed all three bolts. Do NOT use the starter to turn the engine over and, after removing the third bolt, do NOT turn the crankshaft any more.

On top of the timing cover, behind the rounded top, is the place where the injection pump is bolted to the cover from the back side. Clean the top of the timing cover where it meets the injection pump and look for a thin line scribed into the cover and one on the injection pump. Note the position of the two lines (they are usually aligned) for reassembly.

Remove the throttle cable assembly from the injection pump. Remove all the wires from the pump and note which connection the big pink wire goes to. The other wires will be green. Remove the return hose at the top of the injection pump.

There are three nuts holding the injection pump to the timing cover and you will need a 15mm socket and/or wrench to remove them. When you do, the injection pump and injection lines can be removed as a unit. Note the position of the driveshaft of the injection pump to set the new one the same way. If you are not going to put things back together right away, cut up a plastic garbage bag and make covers for the injectors. Secure the covers with rubber bands or nylon cable ties to keep dirt out of the injectors.

Carefully transfer the injection lines to the new pump. It is possible to cross them up so pay close attention while moving the lines. Transfer the fuel inlet pipe to the new pump and whatever device is mounted on the passenger side of the old injection pump to the new pump.

Get a new injection pump to timing cover gasket and install it over the timing cover studs. Install the new injection pump after setting the driveshaft to match the holes in the gear inside the timing cover. The pump can only be installed one way since it is indexed to the gear. Reinstall the nuts on the studs and set the timing marks to the same position they were when you removed the old injection pump (the lines on top of the timing cover and the flange of the injection pump). Tighten the mounting nuts. Make sure that all the injection lines line up at their injectors, but do not tighten the connections at the injectors yet.

Put the first bolt back into the gear through the oil fill tube hole. Hand tighten it and then turn the crankshaft clockwise as before to install the remaining two bolts. Then, tighten all the bolts securely and resinstall the oil fill tube. Reinstall the throttle connections on the injection pump.

Install a new piece of 1/4" fuel line from the fuel filter to the injection pump (the old one is usuall brittle since it never gets changed). Remove the covers over the opening in the cylinders heads and reinstall the intake manifold using new gaskets.

Reinstall all the injection line clips that were removed and the coolant crossover tube (if you removed it and don't forget to add coolant to the radiator). Reconnect all the wiring on the injection pump, except for the big pink wire. Install a piece of clear tubing on the top of the injection pump and connect it to the return tee in front of it (where you removed the rubber hose from the old injection pump).

Now comes the fun part: Disconnect the glow plug relay connector (two small wires in a connector) from the middle of the relay. The relay is usually on the driver's fender and close to the battery.

Crank the engine, in short bursts, until you see fuel in the clear tubing on top of the injection pump. When you do, reconnect the big pink wire on the injection pump. Continue to crank the engine in short bursts (allowing the starter to rest between cranking cycles) until you see fuel dripping out of the injection lines at the injectors. When you do, tighten the connections where fuel is dripping. When all lines have been tightened, reconnect the glow plug relay connector. Remove the clear tubing on top of the injection pump and reinstall the fuel line that was removed from that location.

Then, try starting the engine normally. If it will not start, try some WD-40 down the intake. You can use ether, but you MUST disable the glow plugs be removing the connector at the relay.

The engine may run rough or stall at first but it should smooth out after all the remaining air comes out of the system.

Torque values are as follows:

Intake manifold: 25-37 ft-lbs
Gear bolts: 13-20 ft-lbs
Injection pump mounting nuts: 25-37 ft-lbs
Injection lines: 15-24 ft-lbs ("wrench tight" is fine)
Injection pump fuel inlet fitting: 15-20 ft-lbs

Posted on Feb 17, 2010

  • 34 Answers

SOURCE: 1986 FORD F 350 DIESEL 6.9 REPLACED INJECTOR PUMP

check to see that your mechanical fuel pump is working on the lower right side of the engine. VERY problematic pump due to design and location. Have you replaced your fuel filter with the injector pump swap? cause you need to do that , its a must If your getting fuel to your injector pump you have to bleed the lines to each cylinder to bleed out the air in the system. If that all checks out then you need to set the timing to 8 deg using a timing light and a diesel injection pulse width adapter timing tool. purchase a haynes manuel for 6.9l/7.3l diesel engines to follow the correct procedure for setting timing to manufactures spec. You will have to disconnect sensor at certain times during the timing stage so make sure it is done right!
PS - I hope you marked a reference line on the pump to line up with the line on the housing cause that will get you close to start! good luck

Posted on Apr 07, 2010

  • 202 Answers

SOURCE: How do you remove the fuel injector on a ford 6.0

V8 6.0L DSl Turbo VNP 1. Remove the valve cover 2 disconnect the fuel injector electrical connector 3 remove the bolts and the high-pressure oil rail 4 Caution, Do not attempt to apply battery voltage to the injector or damage to the fuel injector will occur. using a 19mm (.074 in) socket, push the fuel injector electrical connector out of the rocker arm carrier. 5 Note - there is no need to drain the fuel rail - if the engine coolant is found in the chambers,it may be necessary to install a new injector sleeve. Remove the bolt, fuel injector hold-down clamp and fuel injector.

Posted on May 04, 2010

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HAVE A KABOTA B7500 DIESEL TRACTOR, PUT NEWE FUEL FILTER ON, NEW MECHANICAL FUEL TRANSFER PUMP, GET FUEL TO INJECTOR PUMP BUT NOTHING AT INJECTOR LINES WHEN TRYING TO BLEED SYSTEM, HAS A ZEXEL PUMP


you will need the engine turned on to the run position to deactivate the stop system in the pump
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You need to ensure that here are no vacuum leaks in the line from the tank to the lift pump, the lift pump which looks very similar to a car petrol pump must be in good working order ie able to pump the minimum pressure and volume at cranking speed and idle speed.
If the lift pump is not working properly it will cause cavitation at the injector pump that will cause low pressure bubbles on the intake of the injector pump. If you have a good lift pump and there are no vacuum leaks between the tank and the lift pump then it may be down to bleeding the air out of the injector lines first at the pump, and then at the end of the injector lines (be very careful the diesel is at 170 to 175 times atmospheric pressure which is about 2500 pounds per square inch (which can penetrate skin deeply and even bone). Most of the Ford tractors use a rotary injection pump. Having only one cylinder not pressurizing is extremely unusual, try swapping the injectors between cylinders to see if it is a faulty injector, making sure to use new or at least anneal the old copper sealing washers and tension the injectors evenly with a tension wrench to correct torque. If the misfire then follows the injector it means your need the injectors servicing. New needles & nozzles for injectors is a lot cheaper than a new or rebuilt rotary injection pump. Please advise if it’s an inline pump. (which I doubt they were rare because they cost more).

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