Question about Cars & Trucks
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: cv half axles
I have done the front CV half axles in my '96 WRX and did not require a special tool, mine was an Auto, but I suspect a manual car is similar. Firstly, while the car is on the ground, unlock the lock tab and loosen the main hub nut - it can be very tight. Then lift the car up off its wheels and use stands to make sure it is safe and won't fall on you - I have a hoist which is really nice. Take off the wheel, brake caliper (I hang this by a piece of wire from the spring, saves disconnecting and bleeding the brakes) and take off the disc. Take off the main hub nut. Then release the two strut to hub carrier bolts and then knock them out. Note that they are slightly different - put them back the way they came out. The hub will now hang down on the bottom ball joint. At this stage you should be able to push the drive shaft back out of the hub assembly. This is not easy, but I managed to do mine. If this cannot be done then I guess you would need to take the hub off completely by releasing the bottom ball joint. You now have the drive shaft hanging down from the gearbox. The shaft is on a spline. Inside the gearbox on the end of the spline is a radial groove on which sits a wire ring. I assume this is to stop the shaft falling out. As you pull the shaft out, this wire ring comes up against a taper in the gearbox which is supposed to compress the wire ring into the groove and allow the axle to come out. Sometimes this does not happen easily and you will need to **** it out. If it wont come out because the spline or the wire ring is damaged you have a major, major problem which I can't help you with - Gearbox disassembly I suspect. Anyway, that should have the shaft sitting on the floor. The axle shaft pulls out of the CV the same way (spline, wire ring thing). Assembly is easy, but in the reverse order. Use the factory torque settings for all the main nuts/bolts. A few things: get the wheel alignment done after the job. If you cannot get the disc caliper back on the disc, use a "G" clamp and gently push the caliper pistons back into the caliper a bit which will allow you more room between the disc and pistons. If you do this, you will need to gently pump the brake pedal a couple of times to restore the pedal, it will go straight to the floor on the first application - don't find this out on the way out of the shop!!!! Be prepared to loose some skin and get very dirty. If possible, when you have finished, get someone else to check all the bolts for tightness, leaving some of these loose could cause a serious accident.
Hope this helps
Posted on Sep 04, 2008
SOURCE: what is the procedure to
You don't need the special tools that they use in this procedure, you can use a hammer and a block of wood to get the axle out of the hub and you can use a pry bar to get the axle out of the transmisson.
Notice: Care must be exercised to prevent the constant-velocity joints from being over-extended. When either end of the drive axle is disconnected, over-extension of the joint could result in separation of internal components and possible joint failure. Drive axle joints and seals should be protected any time service is performed on or near the drive axles. Failure to observe this can result in interior joint or seal damage and possible joint failure.
Notice: Prior to removal of drive axle assembly, cover all sharp edges in the area of the drive axle with shop towels so that the seal is not damaged during removal.
Any time the front halfshaft is removed, the transmission (the halfshaft male and female shank) and the knuckle sealing surfaces should be inspected for debris or corrosion.
If debris or corrosion are present on the sealing surfaces, clean them with a 320 grit cloth or equivalent. Transmission fluid may be used to clean off any of the remaining debris. The surface should be wiped dry, and the halfshaft should be reinstalled free of any debris or corrosion buildup.
Important: Verify that the drive axle is seated by grasping on the inner joint housing and pulling outboard.
Notice: Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.
Tighten the drive axle nut to 200 N·m (144 lb ft).
Posted on Nov 02, 2008
the axle just pulls or snaps out of the trans, it is held in by an internal round spring clip, they are a real bear to remove the 1st time, u must pull straight out with a sharp jerking motion to get them to release, be patient it will come out.
Posted on Mar 31, 2009
SOURCE: Replacing my CV Axles
Hi, your axles on the metro are actually called half shafts, any larger name parts house can order them for you. Call them with the Make, Year, and Model and they will take care of you. you will need to tell them,drivers side or passengers side. Hope this helps!
Posted on Aug 26, 2009
Ok CV axles are ones used only on front wheel drive vehicles so if this is the case here you go....before you jack up the car, try to loosen up the spindle/hub nut using a good size strong breaker bar and pipe assembly once loose jack up take opff tire,remove the disc caliper assembly,reve the axle bolt/washer, remove the rotor and bearing hub and assembly, place a pan under the outboard side of the transmission (where the axle slips in to catch any trans fliud that may leak out) pry the axle shaft out....remember to always support any vehicle with jack stands to insure your safety....wear goolgles rust and grease **** when it hits the eye balls and try to wear mechanics gloves to help prevent any nasty cuts and or grease paws...replace using the same proceedure....when you have everything in....tighten up the axle shaft bolt once the car is lowere with the wheel on the ground as this will allow you to fully torque that large nut to its full capacity, hope this helps.....John.
Posted on May 06, 2010
Tips for a great answer:
Nov 18, 2016 | 1996 Chevrolet Corsica
Jul 15, 2013 | 1996 Chevrolet Corsica
Aug 27, 2012 | 1996 Chevrolet Corsica
Aug 20, 2011 | 1995 Chevrolet Corsica
Feb 24, 2010 | 1996 Chevrolet Corsica
Feb 18, 2010 | 1996 Chevrolet Corsica
Feb 18, 2009 | 1994 Chevrolet Corsica
Feb 06, 2009 | 1996 Volkswagen Jetta
75 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!