Question about Cars & Trucks
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
The bulbs have to be checked first. it's bad to ck something just to find the bulbs bad theres a fuse in the dash panel but its numbered and the location is buried in the owners manuel, The next trick to find a blown or missing fuse is to pull and replace them all one at a time by looking at them. A easy blown fuse may not look blown therefore turning the key on and probing the (tips) of the back side of the fuse with a test light ( an ice pick tool with a clear handle that has a lenght of wire with a clip on the end to bitea metal ground to ( see ) the power) All auto parts sell them and many dept. stores, name" 12 volt test light" Lets say all the fuses are good and it still doesn't work with good bulbs. On the side of the transmission where the selector shaft enters the transmission (that's where the cable from the gearshift hooks to the transmissin) is the park neutral safty switch it is also called the backup light switch, or selector switch depending if your talking to a parts store the dealer parts department or reading a repair manual. The plug can be dirty,,, Trans leaking just some oil out the selector shaft can wreack these switches. The plug and its wires or wire can be fouled ( road or off road activity ) The back up lights themselfs can get dirty and losse ground but other lights won't work right either. (Jumping ) power with a test lead from say the known hot running lights to the wire that powers the backup bulbs may find that it works that way or its shorted and sparks your test wire and maybe even blows the run fuse. touch quickly just to see. The wire goes to the switch on the side of the transmission though the switch ( when in reverse ) Adjustment being right to a power wire that comes hot with the key. All wires at the switch are cold with the key off and two are hot with the key on and one more comes hot turning the key to start. This is right on most all cars and trucks since the begining og backup lights 50's cars and older didn't have them. No power at the switch key off to on your back to the fuses or the ingtion switch itself but if the key switch were involved other things won't work too I guess that everything eles works, Some trailor package trucks have a separate fuse panel. The fuse pnel locations are in the owers manuel All data, Mitchell ondemand, and most good repair manuals like the ones most auto parts have in stock, They mostly tell where to look too. After that your looking to trace the wires that power the switch or the wire that goes to the back of the truck. When you find a wire that becomes hot (test light check) when put in reverse, that wire is the one at the tailight and your previous test said the lights will come on with power added and their not shorted, run a jumper wire from the switch to the ight wire found at the tailight if it works right like that cut the old wir and add a new one where the test wire worked Someone could have added or even ford could have put a backup beeper that failed some way and it blows the fuse even though the lights are good. Trailor connectors added sometimes the installer cut the wire not knowing what it does. Taped up and remade wiring for trailors or other asseries need to be checked as most backup light problems I have found are accident or mechanic created other than the trans leaking into the switch, The leak usally causes ck engine lite on no start and other intermitant problems, Codes will be called Park neutral switch failure, No start is more common than back up only problems. If the fuse blows again the wire going to the back is in troble some where and pulling it out or replacing it from known good to the point that you know the lights come on with power is fastest repair.
Posted on Aug 11, 2009
you should try salvage yards if you have them in your area. the dealer can most likely help. is it just the shift lever or the mechanism in the coulmn?
Posted on Feb 27, 2010
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