Question about Cars & Trucks
When I first start my car my check engine will not be on but after driving for a while it will come on and go off again. Sometimes for a while and sometimes for the duration of the trip.
Get your ride check for error code to know the exact cause of the problem. The error code will help you as well as us to solve the issue you are facing with the ride. Without any knowledge of what is wrong with your car, it is not appropriate to say what is wrong with your car. So update your answer with the error code.
Posted on Jul 15, 2013
The engine light is telling you that the CPU has found sensor/s outside set parameters during the checking process. Have the fault codes read to determine which sensor is intermittent in operation.
Posted on Jul 15, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Before you do anything else you are just going to have to read the codes. So buy the maintance book at autozone,locate the little juction box on the fire wall and jump the terminals with a little wire. Then of course sit in the drivers seat turn on the key(do not start) and read the blinks. Then you will know what the problem is.
Posted on May 06, 2009
SOURCE: 1997 Geo Metro Stalling
After driving for a while and the engine becomes hot, when you park the car for a while, does this "for a while" mean enough time for the engine to cool down or not?
The reason why this is important is because an engine can stall for a number of reasons, and finding out the conditions of its stalling obviously helps narrow down the cause of the stall.
If it stalls, you say, when the engine cools down after being parked for a while, this handy diagnostic article will help assess the cause of your problem:
If it stalls again, like you said, after warming up and driving for a bit, the ambient temperature may be too as well as the engine itself, which then you should be inclinde to read this diagnostic article:
You may very well be right its due to fuel starvation, particularly as to the malfunctioning of the EGR, as noted in the article.
I'm sure these articles will provide you with great insight.
Posted on Jun 02, 2009
before changing any more parts there are grounds on the engine that need cleaned one on the back of intake manifold then you have to remove battery tray clean up the ground there then clean where the tray bolts up as this aids in chassis grounding remove ground cable from bellhousing before you reassemble install star washers btween cable ends and where they bolt up this will dig into ground surface and cables making a better ground then remove turn signals in front there are two on right side and one on left side cleanup and star washer then there is the ground spots for the ecm inside removr kick panel on right side clean up and star washer if the starter doesnt work after this starter is probably bad but the other codes will probably clear out
Posted on Jul 29, 2009
there is often a small back up battery in the immobiliser unit itself, if you can locate this unit and replace the battery with the ignition on / engine running, then it should not need recoding and work fine after that. The other thing that could be wrong is the key battery (if the fob has one) or the transponder chip in the key head. If the key signal is low the immobiliser lamp will light during driving, but this does not explain the alarm going off. That is more likely either a poor vehicle battery, alarm / immobiliser back up battery, or another electrical fault such as water leakage into a tail-light or even the alarm unit itself when it rains. A lot of alarms are voltage sensing and when the vehicle is parked they will alarm if the battery voltage changes for any reason, though not during driving so the battery in the immob is my first choice to look at.
Posted on Oct 24, 2009
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