Question about Cars & Trucks
What would cause this motor to smoke, stop smoking and smoke again?
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: White smoke from exhaust
its a pvc problem had the same thing in my car when driving slow a little piece in the pvc is clogged and the smoke instead of coming out slowly comes out alot cuz the pressure gets built up
Posted on Aug 30, 2008
I have a Mazda which in Australia (here) is called a 323 Astina, overseas a 323f, Familia, etc.
It uses a 2.0L Mazda KF Engine very similar to (in fact co-developed with) the Suzuki H20A engine, except designed to be transverse, variable resonance induction and other different tuning inc. 7000 redline, and probably not as reliable as an H20A.
I've had the engine rebuilt because I want to keep this car for a while and it needed it. Oil slipped past the rings which burned out grooves on one of the exhaust valves on Cyl-6 to the point where that cylinder had no compression...
... but I still get smoke occasionally, as you describe yours except not as often nor on the open road at speed. It happened ever since the first time I changed the oil after the rebuild. The tech who rebuilt it used a grade of oil I couldn't find and, liking synthetics, I used a lighter oil.
About the time you were writing your message, I replaced the rubber intake pipe feeding the throttle body and I noticed the inside of the intake manifold lined liberally with oil. The old pipe had oil only at one end.
The pipe I replaced didn't just go from the air mass sensor on the filter box to the throttle body. There was also a large pipe to an air reservoir (a lengthy pipe sealed at one end so that if you open the throttle quickly, you don't have to wait for more air to be filtered before it enters the engine, supposedly) and a tiny pipe to PCV valve.
It's not a long pipe so it's easy to look inside. The reason I'm boring you with all of that detail is because you'll almost certainly have a different one, but this is still most probably something you'll find feeding your intake manifold a supply of oil. The PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) valve runs from one of the rocker covers (not that we have rockers) into a pipe feeding into this intake pipe. It's supposed to **** air in from the intake pipe due to a vacuum created by another pipe connecting from another part of the crankcase to the intake manifold (after the throttle body so it has a lower pressure than the intake pipe) and that might be happening in my engine but oil is, or was before the rebuild, seeping back into the intake pipe.
Being a transverse version of your engine, the PCV valve is on the front bank and the pipe from it to the intake pipe is quite short. The PCV valve is also situated above (if I remember correctly) a cam lobe so at higher revs, the oil gets flicked up into the PCV valve.
... so use an oil which is thicker at high temperature, do a compression test, or as I'm considering, run the pipe from the PCV valve into a canister to catch the oil before feeding the gasses into the intake manifold. That way less of the thinner oil will be burned off and I'll have a better chance at getting away with using it.
I use 15W40 Oil - viscosity of 15 weight (units?) when hot, 40 in Winter (which the W stands for). I should use 20Wxx, perhaps, to burn less oil.
This engine likes thin oil, it just goes on to liking it enough to inhale it. This engine also likes higher revs.
Hope that helps.
Posted on Feb 09, 2009
SOURCE: white smoke out the exhaust
hi white smoke is from coolant in the cylnders bed head gasket.blueish white smoke is oil in the cylnders either bad valve seals or bad piston rings.must rebuild engine or heads.
Posted on Feb 14, 2009
If the smoke is white, or steam it is water. you might have cracked the head or warped it. Did you get it looked at before you put the new gasket on? If the smoke is black then it is oil. Do a compression check and see if you don't have a bad cylinder. They should all be about the same give or take 5 lbs.
Posted on Feb 28, 2009
Smoke from that area is likely steam. It's possible that you have some slight seepage from the radiator or one of the hoses up front. At this point, the coolant loss is very slight and you may not see much in the way of dripping but there may be a wet spot on or near whatever is leaking that you can locate after it's been run and shut down for about a half hour.
You can also have a shop do a fluorescent
dye test to locate the problem.
Catching any leak while it's this small can avoid major problems later, so don't ignore it...leaks don't get better, they get worse.
I've noticed lately that many people are reading many of the answers given here and not bothering to note if they were helpful. don't neglect to do that as well!!!!
Posted on May 20, 2010
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