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I'm replacing my brakes and rotors and it all looks pretty heavy duty. Not sure if this is something I can do or if a mechanic needs to

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  • Cars & Trucks Master
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If you have doubts, it is better to turn this over to a mechanic

Posted on Jul 14, 2013

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NOT SURE OF YOUR MECHANICAL ABILITY OR WHAT KIND OF TOOLS YOU HAVE YOU WILL NEED BASIC BRAKE TOOLS SO IF YOU GOT A FRIEND WHO IS KNOWLEDGABLE GET SOME HELP YOU MADE NEED TRANSPORTATION ALSO IF YOUR PART'S DON'T FIT YOU CAN GET YOURSELF IN A JAM AND COST YOURSELF SOME SERIOUS MONEY YOUR TALKING ABOUT BRAKES PLEASE GIVE THIS SOME SERIOUS THOUGHT ESPECIALLY IF YOUR WIFE OR FAMILY MEMBOR'S DRIVE GOOD LUCK

Posted on Jul 14, 2013

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: I replaced brake rotors and pads on front end.Now

Did you get new bolts with the rubber boots on them in your brake pad box when you purchased them? If not and you reused the mounting bolts did you clean them up good and reapply a thick coat of anti seize to the bolts so the caliper will float freely? They come in those little packets at the parts store and there usually right up next to the register. When I change my brakes I get 1 packet of the anti sieze for the bolts and 1 packet of the brake no squeak lube to put between the pads and caliper. It sounds like your caliper isn't floating so when you apply the brakes and isn't squeezing the rotor evenly from both sides like its supposed to. You can usually tell if this is the problem by jacking the car up take off the tire and grab the caliper and see if you can push it back and forth. You should be able to and also do the same on the side that's not squeaking so you have something to compare the problem side to. Get a can of brake cleaner to spray your caliper down with before you mess with it to clean all the asbestos dust and grime of them. I would check the caliper bolts first to see if that's whats making them grind it will be quick and cheap to fix just make sure if you get a new set of pads that they come with the new anti rattle clips , new mounting bolts with new rubber boots and don't forget to lube the bolts up good with anti seize and make sure they can freely slide in and out of each other before you install them

Posted on Mar 07, 2010

alicantecoli
  • 22095 Answers

SOURCE: Replacing rear Disc pads on 2005 liberty 4wdrv.

you have the handbrake inside the the rear brake disk its all in one with the disk

Posted on Jun 12, 2010

Mr BrokRench
  • 1623 Answers

SOURCE: will the abs system in a 2001 vw beetle cause my

Hello Susan, and thank you for the direct question. I doubt it's the ABS system on your Beetle that is causing the premature failure. Based on the experience i have had with the Beetle & the Jetta, i will offer this advice.

First, the quality of pads and rotors used on this car is important. A lesser quality than OEM parts is not going to last as long. Second, the calipers and caliper slides need to be cleaned and lubed or they tend to stick & cause the pad to constantly drag on the rotor. 3rd--The Beetle is one of few vehicles that i have seen wear the rear brakes out 2x to 3x times as fast as the front. The reason this happens is because the calipers have rotating pistons, each time you set the park brake they adjust them self. So if you want the rear brakes to last, stop trying to rip the handle off when you set the brake. I know it's a hard habit to break, but use just enough "clicks" when you set it to feel resistance and to keep the car from rolling. Or, better yet, if you are parked on level ground, don't use it all. Try this, and you will see the difference in the wear pattern and longevity of your brakes....That's my tip of the day for you, that few would ever know, because they have never actually worked on a Bug.

I hope this information was helpful, & good luck with the Beetle.

PS: Shop around for another mechanic, the one you have now is incompetent, and based on your situation i would not trust him.

Posted on Sep 18, 2011

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dttech
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SOURCE: My Ford E-350 Van Shakes when braking. I have replaced the Rotors and Brake pads and it still shakes only when braking. What else could be causing this?

Welcome to the world of Ford Truck!!! The rear rotors come off the same way that the front rotors come off, only they get REALLY stuck to the rear hub assembly. Once you have removed the caliper and caliper mounting frame, take a BIG hammer and BEAT the rotors loose.

They make a "drum and rotor puller" for this job, but it is pretty expensive - especially if you are only going to do one set of brakes...even most professionals that do these all the time cannot justify the cost of the tool. The rotors for your truck are not that expensive, and they usually get destroyed trying to get them off anyway...so we always replace them at our shop.

Posted on Jun 10, 2012

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O'reillyAutoParts Brake Best Select - Brake Pads Part Number: SM1057B Line: BB
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Width of the rotor. 0.54 is regular. If the width from side view is over an inch they are heavy duty. Be sure to use a good quality brake pad, it makes a big difference. Ceramic, not semi-metallic.

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Get outta the "zone" and into a real parts store. A NAPA store, Carquest, or even an O'Reilly's.
At NAPA, go for the AE or "Application Engineered" pads. Those are the ones made to match best with the original equipment brakes. However, if you really want to kick it up a notch, ask the parts people for the fleet heavy-duty pads.
Remember, though, as jtpuckett pointed out, check the surfacing of the rotors. Too smooth is just as bad as too rough, and judging from your other posts about this vehicle, you may have other problems.
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Do not just hammer away as the previous ignoramus suggested. They'll never come off and you'll just end up breaking something.

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