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Knocking noise and becomes louder every time I

Knocking noise and becomes louder every time I accelerate! What do I need to fix

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SOUND'S LIKE YOU COULD HAVE A BAD ROD OR CRANK OR LIFTER.TRY THIS CHECK YOUR WATER AND OIL NOW START THE ENGINE IF IT IS A FAST KNOCKING HOLD YOUR FOOT ON THE BRAKE AND PUT THE CARE IN GEAR IF IT QUEITS YOU HAVE BAD ROD SERIOUS MOTOR REPAIR INTERNAL.DO THE SAME THING AGAIN AND IF IT IS MORE A THUMPING NOISE AND A SLOW DEEP KNOCK THEN WITH THE ENGINE IDLEING PUT IT IN GEAR HOLD THE BRAKE GIVE IT A LITTLE GAS AND IF THE MOTOR KNOCK'S GET'S QUEIT IT'S POSSIBLY THE CRANKSHAFT ANOTHER INTERNAL PROBLEM MOTOR OVERHAUL IF IT'S A FAST RATTLING IT'S PROBABLY A LIFTER STUCK OR BLEED DOWN DIRTY OIL OR A WEAK OIL PUMP ALL ARE BAD NEWS SORRY.GOOD LUCK

Posted on Jul 14, 2013

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 350 Answers

SOURCE: Whining Noise when idle and gets louder when accelerating on 2000 Nissan Altima GLE

hi more than likley to be the alternator remove your fan belt start engine see if noise disapears yates210456

Posted on Oct 08, 2008

  • 11 Answers

SOURCE: Enegine has loud knocking noise in 2000 Honda Civic EX

maybe its low on oil

Posted on Jan 30, 2009

GARYca
  • 672 Answers

SOURCE: CRV has knocking sound coming from rear passenger side

inspect the braking system for warped or uneven rotor surface, as this may cause this noise and uneven pad wear. CV joints also could cause this if the boots are torn, have insufficient grease, are damaged,or have worn bearings. Hopefully this helps

Posted on Jul 22, 2009

  • 70 Answers

SOURCE: 96 Suburban v8/7.4L/454 K2500, Knocking Noise??

sound like an internal engine problem. either one or more of the pistons has "piston slap" and that knocking will diminish as the engine warms up or possibly a rod bearing is worn out. have a tech do a manual oil pressure test to make sure the oil pump and main bearings are ok. piston slap or knock that decreases when the engine warms up is not that serious, but a rod bearing knock or possible oil pump failure should be taken care of asap.

Posted on Oct 29, 2009

Testimonial: "thanks, after reading what you've described it sounds exactly like the problem I'm having, looks like we'll be going to the shop."

  • 14036 Answers

SOURCE: knocking noise when i accelerate

CHECK ALL DRIVE BELT ACCESSORIES LIKE ALTERNATOR - AIR CONDITIONER COMPRESSOR AND CRANKSHAFT PULLEY.I HAVE SEEN A LOOSE OR BAD TRANSMISSION MOUNT CAUSE KNOCKING NOISE IF ENGINE ACCELERATED.

Posted on Mar 01, 2010

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Kia sorento 2012 produce sound look like power steering problem and it gets louder when ever I acceleration gear, so I took belt out and start the engin with no belt I found that sound was in engin!!


If its a knocking sound:

A KNOCKING SOUND IN THE ENGINE IS MOST LIKELY CAUSED BY ONE OF THE FOLLOWING
1. PISTON SLAP: Makes a sharp metallic noise. Idle engine and short out each cylinder plug. The noise will disappear when plug with bad piston is shorted. Noise will also disappear at acceleration. This can be caused by worn or out of round cylinder, or broken piston ring. Correct problem by re-boring cylinder and/or replacing piston.
2. VALVE NOISE: Makes clicking or rattle noise. Caused by excessive wear on valve stem or lifter, out of adjustment, or stuck valve. Correct by adjusting valve clearance, replace worn valve or lifter, regrind cam, replace valve guide and /or valve. A stuck valve can sometimes be loosened by passing oil through the carburetor while engine is running.

3. ROD BEARING KNOCK: Makes sharp metallic noise similar to a piston slap. Detection is opposite of piston slap. Rod knock is not heard at idle. Knock becomes louder as engine speed is increased. Caused by excessive rod bearing clearance. Correct by adjusting rod bearing clearance to .0015 inches by removing shims. May require re-pouring rod bearing.
4. REAR MAIN BEARING KNOCK: Makes dull knocking or thud noise. Detected at speeds between 20 and 50 MPH. Knock will normally decrease or disappear while pulling or decelerating. Noise will be detected the loudest at normal driving speed, when not pulling or decelerating. Correct by adjusting bearing clearance to .001 to .0015 inches. If knock is excessive, crank should be checked for out of roundness. May need to re-pour all main bearings to correct.
5. TIMING GEAR KNOCK: usually the most difficult to diagnose. If gear is loose or badly worn it will knock in all ranges. Run engine slightly above idle speed. Slowly open and close throttle. Knock will continue to be present, but just as engine slows down knock will become a slight rattle. Remove timing pin and reinsert into timing hole on timing gear cover. Press timing pin tightly against timing gear and accelerate slightly above idle. Knock will significantly be reduced or disappear. Correct by replacing both timing gear and crank gear as a matched set. The two gears should have a backlash clearance of .003 to .004. If more than .009 inch backlash, an oversize (.005) timing gear should be installed.
6. WRIST PIN SLAP: This can not be detected by shorting out the cylinder plugs. Rapidly accelerate and decelerate the engine speed. The engine will pass through a certain speed range when the wrist pin will rattle at about the same pitch as a valve tappet noise. This can be corrected by installing a new wrist pin bushing in the rod or new wrist pin f badly worn. Wrist pin should fit the piston and connecting rod with a tight metal to metal fit. The pin can be pushed into the piston and rod with a slight pressure of the hand. Pin to rod clearance is .0003 to .0005 inches.

Dec 15, 2013 | Kia Sorento Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Making knocking sound


A KNOCKING SOUND IN THE ENGINE IS MOST LIKELY CAUSED BY ONE OF THE FOLLOWING
1. PISTON SLAP: Makes a sharp metallic noise. Idle engine and short out each cylinder plug. The noise will disappear when plug with bad piston is shorted. Noise will also disappear at acceleration. This can be caused by worn or out of round cylinder, or broken piston ring. Correct problem by re-boring cylinder and/or replacing piston.
2. VALVE NOISE: Makes clicking or rattle noise. Caused by excessive wear on valve stem or lifter, out of adjustment, or stuck valve. Correct by adjusting valve clearance, replace worn valve or lifter, regrind cam, replace valve guide and /or valve. A stuck valve can sometimes be loosened by passing oil through the carburetor while engine is running.

3. ROD BEARING KNOCK: Makes sharp metallic noise similar to a piston slap. Detection is opposite of piston slap. Rod knock is not heard at idle. Knock becomes louder as engine speed is increased. Caused by excessive rod bearing clearance. Correct by adjusting rod bearing clearance to .0015 inches by removing shims. May require re-pouring rod bearing.
4. REAR MAIN BEARING KNOCK: Makes dull knocking or thud noise. Detected at speeds between 20 and 50 MPH. Knock will normally decrease or disappear while pulling or decelerating. Noise will be detected the loudest at normal driving speed, when not pulling or decelerating. Correct by adjusting bearing clearance to .001 to .0015 inches. If knock is excessive, crank should be checked for out of roundness. May need to re-pour all main bearings to correct.
5. TIMING GEAR KNOCK: usually the most difficult to diagnose. If gear is loose or badly worn it will knock in all ranges. Run engine slightly above idle speed. Slowly open and close throttle. Knock will continue to be present, but just as engine slows down knock will become a slight rattle. Remove timing pin and reinsert into timing hole on timing gear cover. Press timing pin tightly against timing gear and accelerate slightly above idle. Knock will significantly be reduced or disappear. Correct by replacing both timing gear and crank gear as a matched set. The two gears should have a backlash clearance of .003 to .004. If more than .009 inch backlash, an oversize (.005) timing gear should be installed.
6. WRIST PIN SLAP: This can not be detected by shorting out the cylinder plugs. Rapidly accelerate and decelerate the engine speed. The engine will pass through a certain speed range when the wrist pin will rattle at about the same pitch as a valve tappet noise. This can be corrected by installing a new wrist pin bushing in the rod or new wrist pin f badly worn. Wrist pin should fit the piston and connecting rod with a tight metal to metal fit. The pin can be pushed into the piston and rod with a slight pressure of the hand. Pin to rod clearance is .0003 to .0005 inches.

Dec 06, 2013 | Nissan Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

V6 knocking noise


A KNOCKING SOUND IN THE ENGINE IS MOST LIKELY CAUSED BY ONE OF THE FOLLOWING
1. PISTON SLAP: Makes a sharp metallic noise. Idle engine and short out each cylinder plug. The noise will disappear when plug with bad piston is shorted. Noise will also disappear at acceleration. This can be caused by worn or out of round cylinder, or broken piston ring. Correct problem by re-boring cylinder and/or replacing piston.
2. VALVE NOISE: Makes clicking or rattle noise. Caused by excessive wear on valve stem or lifter, out of adjustment, or stuck valve. Correct by adjusting valve clearance, replace worn valve or lifter, regrind cam, replace valve guide and /or valve. A stuck valve can sometimes be loosened by passing oil through the carburetor while engine is running.

3. ROD BEARING KNOCK: Makes sharp metallic noise similar to a piston slap. Detection is opposite of piston slap. Rod knock is not heard at idle. Knock becomes louder as engine speed is increased. Caused by excessive rod bearing clearance. Correct by adjusting rod bearing clearance to .0015 inches by removing shims. May require re-pouring rod bearing.
4. REAR MAIN BEARING KNOCK: Makes dull knocking or thud noise. Detected at speeds between 20 and 50 MPH. Knock will normally decrease or disappear while pulling or decelerating. Noise will be detected the loudest at normal driving speed, when not pulling or decelerating. Correct by adjusting bearing clearance to .001 to .0015 inches. If knock is excessive, crank should be checked for out of roundness. May need to re-pour all main bearings to correct.
5. TIMING GEAR KNOCK: usually the most difficult to diagnose. If gear is loose or badly worn it will knock in all ranges. Run engine slightly above idle speed. Slowly open and close throttle. Knock will continue to be present, but just as engine slows down knock will become a slight rattle. Remove timing pin and reinsert into timing hole on timing gear cover. Press timing pin tightly against timing gear and accelerate slightly above idle. Knock will significantly be reduced or disappear. Correct by replacing both timing gear and crank gear as a matched set. The two gears should have a backlash clearance of .003 to .004. If more than .009 inch backlash, an oversize (.005) timing gear should be installed.
6. WRIST PIN SLAP: This can not be detected by shorting out the cylinder plugs. Rapidly accelerate and decelerate the engine speed. The engine will pass through a certain speed range when the wrist pin will rattle at about the same pitch as a valve tappet noise. This can be corrected by installing a new wrist pin bushing in the rod or new wrist pin f badly worn. Wrist pin should fit the piston and connecting rod with a tight metal to metal fit. The pin can be pushed into the piston and rod with a slight pressure of the hand. Pin to rod clearance is .0003 to .0005 inches.

Dec 06, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Knocking noise start up and driving?


Sounds like a rod bearing knock.

Jun 12, 2013 | GMC Safari Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Why is there a knocking sound when turning?


to test make your turn nice and slow with no throttle, then make the same turn accelerating slightly, if you hear the knocking/popping noise louder when accelerating, then it is probably the CV axels. get a free inspection at mieneke:).

Jun 20, 2010 | 2005 Chevrolet Impala

1 Answer

Engine knocking noise in 2000 saab 9-3 SE?


It's a common problem with these cars i am actually fixing mine as of now. That car is all about oil pressure and when it is low you'll start to get a tap and or what sounds like a knock due to the lifters not having enough pressure. Try taking your oil pan off and check your oil pick up line going from the oil pan to the turbo. A lot of times it gets a lot of sludge build up and makes the pressure little to none. If that looks clear check the slump inside the oil pan and see if that has sludge build up. Well hope this helped

Apr 15, 2010 | 2000 Saab 9-3 Viggen

1 Answer

Would a faulty speed circuit sensor make the car idol noisy like a rattling knocking noise. noise is louder when accelerating.


NO, it sounds more terminal than that, if you have a knocking sound or noise coming from your engine it could be a few different things, 1. big end bearing, need to rebuild bottom end of engine this is the main one, best get it to a mechanic to clarify the problem for you

Feb 05, 2010 | 2001 Hyundai Santa Fe

1 Answer

I HAVE 02 TRAILBLAZER LTZ, AND IT JUST STARTED MAKING A KNOCKING SOUND THAT SEEMS TO COME FROM ENGINE. THERS IS NO CHECK ENGINE LITE, IT IS NOT LOW ON OIL. YOU CAN HERE KNOCKING SOUND AT IDEL SPEED AND...


Hello, I see you have a trailblaber with a knocking noise. It sounds like you have an electric fan clutch issue. Believe it or not your vehicle has an electric fan clutch. It looks just like the older non-electric but if you look on the driver side of the fan shroud that is the wire connector you see. It is an exspensive part just for the clutch but thats exactly what you are describing. It doesn't get louder just fast with rpms. Please rate my answer, Thank you

Mar 06, 2009 | 2002 Chevrolet TrailBlazer

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