Question about Cars & Trucks
A CONDENSER IN THE DISTRIBUTER WILL CAUSE THIS,TRY CHECKING FUEL FILTER'STHEY WILL COLG AFTER RUNING AND THE FUEL WILL BE LIMITED AND VAPORLOCK AND SHUT DOWN ANOTHER CAUSE IS IN THE INTERNAL FILTER IN THE GAS TANK ITSELF GOOD LUCK A CONDENSER GETS HOT SHUT'S DOWN COOL'S START'S GET'S HOT SHUT'S OFF i HAVE ON A RARE OCASSION HAD PLUG WIRE'S DO THAT CHECK YOUR WIRE'S WITH AN OHM METER.GOOOD LUCK
Posted on Jul 14, 2013
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
First off you can test the fuel pump 2 ways
1.have a assistant turn on the ign to on while you listen for the pump to run at the gas cap (gas cap off).
2.find the valve on the fuel rail looks like a a/c or valve stem,take the cap off and press the needle and if fuel comes out then it's not the fuel pump.
But from a lot of EXPERIANCE on dodge engines the stalling and restarting issue is ignition related i.e crank or cam sensor which will throw a diagnostic code of engine misfire xxx cylinders.
So If its one of those sensors then you will not have any spark,and staring fluids will not fire the engine.
As for the headlights flickering they get there power through a relay straight from the battery,so I would look at the relays under the hood and find the one for the headlights and swap it out with the horn relay as most of the relays will have the same numbers.
The crank sensor is about 70.00 and the cam sensor is about 50.
depending on where you get them (dealer or aftermarket)
the cam sensor is the round plastic thing under the dist cap,and the crank sensor is on the pass side under the head into the top of the transmission bell housing and it's a 2hr job to change because of it's location is really hard to get to.
Hint -take the breather off and place a rag over the intake and a board from the radiator core support to the intake to lay on,it has 2 10mm bolts and the wiring harness unplugs from underneath.
Posted on Jan 10, 2009
Check the fuel pressure at the filter. Odds are the lift pump, located below the filter, is toast. Continual cranking of the motor with a bad LP wil cause the injector pump to heat up and burn out. Replace the LP and fuel filter. Bleed the system by cracking the inlet to the injector pump and bumping the enigine over so the LP will run. Once you have fuel at the injector pump, crack injectors 1,3,and 4. Crank the motor for no more 6 or 7 seconds at a time until it turns over. Give the pump time to cool for a couple of mintues between cranks. This process is easier with two people, one to crank and the other to watch for fuel and tighten the injectors once it starts. If the injector pump is fried at this point from cranking with no fuel, the motor should idle, but will stumble all over itself when the throttle is applied.
Posted on Jan 31, 2009
Tips for a great answer:
Jun 22, 2016 | Dodge Ram 1500 Cars & Trucks
Feb 28, 2014 | 1999 Dodge Ram
Sep 03, 2011 | 1999 Dodge Ram
Dec 29, 2009 | 1999 Dodge Ram
Feb 15, 2009 | 2001 Dodge Ram 1500 Truck 2WD
Jan 23, 2009 | 2004 Dodge Ram 1500
Jan 21, 2009 | 1999 Dodge Ram
Dec 04, 2008 | 1998 Dodge Ram 1500 4WD
Jun 26, 2008 | 1999 Dodge Ram
80 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!