Question about 1993 Mercury Grand Marquis
Trunk will not open with remote or key
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
There are 3 components for the headlights in your dash. The headlight switch, the delay switch, and the autolamp light sensor. If you have the lights manually turned on, without the autolamp position on the switch being on, then the headlight switch is a simple off-on switch.
If the headlight switch is manually on and the lights are cutting out the problem is either the fusible links or bad contacts in the light switch.
If you are using the autolamp position on the light switch, this is a different circuit. The autolamp system needs the light sensor to work. If the light sensor is dangling under the tiny slots in the dash every bump you hit will shake it. Or it can be a broken filament in the light sensor. To test, just eliminate the circuit by using only the manual off-on side of your light switch.
A loose power wire to the light switch (or ground) will affect BOTH the manual and automatic settings. But if the manual setting always works, then its the automatic parts that are broken. The delay switch does not work until after the ignition is off so it can not be the problem while you are driving.
Posted on Dec 27, 2009
Testimonial: "Hi- I had already eliminated the light sensor as a step and it was helpful to know that I should have done that. Thanks, Jim"
This sounds most like a worn lock actuator which wouldn't be uncommon. If you need a diagram on how to replace, let me know.
Posted on May 09, 2010
Sometimes you will find a button inside the Glovebox. This is an Electric trunklid release. Some of the models had controls on the lower drivers door along with the Gasflap release. It depends on the Series that you have. The S, and GS, had less features than the LS model.
You can go to a Locksmith and they have a box of keys and will try them until one opens your trunk. Then you can have a key made to match your lock.
I don't believe the inside releases were made standard in 1992.
Posted on Nov 14, 2010
I just had this problem. My mechanic found there was a male-female wiring connection to the starter which had gotten dirty over the years so there was a very poor connection and not enough current could reach the starter. He cut off the wire (probably like a 12 gauge wire; he showed me the part) and soldered on a replacement so dirt can no-longer accumulate and cause the same problem (if the starter goes I'll have to unsolder and resolder the wire, but not a big deal).
Posted on Dec 26, 2010
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