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Aldl When jumping pins A to B at the ALDL connector on a 1990 Oldsmobile Cutlass all dash lights and relays flash. Stater has been checked. Stater good. Alternator checked. Alternator good. Wire circuit from ECM thru ALDL to ground good. ECM replaced. Original MEM-CAL re-installed. Same problem. Ground wires checked for good ground. Still same problem. All dash lights and relays go nuts when pins A and B jumped at ALDL connector.

Posted by Anonymous on


4 Suggested Answers

  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 2359 Answers

SOURCE: 91 S10 rough idle, stalling ALDL problems

Make sure there is no vacuum leaks.

Vacuum leak at intake manifold and vacuum hose.

Bad Idle Air Control Motor (IAC)

Low compression (170 psi + is OK)

Start cleaning and repair these trouble spots and see is there any improvement.


For more advance DIY'er then you may try this.

Use a can of Berryman carburetor clean to locate the vacuum leak.


This is a 20-30 minutes job.

Vacuum leaks can occur in following locations.

Intake manifold AND/OR vacuum lines.

Intake manifold is not accessible unless the engine head if off.

You can still check the potential leak by spraying some Berryman near the intake manifold.

Listen for rpm increase after you introduce the Berryman (FUEL) at idle.

Do the same starting from the brake booster unit (the round unit) on the drive side fire all.

Carefully listen for increase of RPM right after to spray the Berryman to the potential vacuum spot.

Get a friend to HEAR the RPM increase or monitor for RPM on the tech.

DO NOT AIM the Berryman into any heat source.

PLEASE RATE my answer if it is useful to you.

Posted on Dec 17, 2009

  • 5332 Answers

SOURCE: 1989 ciera orange wire going

You didn't post an engine size but you are correct in thinking there is a fusible link that blew when you grounded the orange wire but there is also an inline fuse that protects the oil pressure switch and the fuel pump relay. It is usually located on the firewall.

You can check the fusible links near the starter for continuity. If one of them is burnt up start there by replacing it. If none of them are bad you will need to find the inline fuse. At least the 3.3 liter engine is set up this way.

Posted on Nov 28, 2010

  • 71 Answers

SOURCE: Power windows on ford explorer

The main reason for this concern, especially if the door is used quite often and/or the vehicle has higher mileage is a break in the wiring going from the drivers door to the body. If you access this area by pulling the protective rubber back, shine a flashlight on these wires and look for a break (open circuit). look for shiny spots from the open copper wire. The stress from the door opening and closing is what causes the break and often you will find more than one broken wire. It will usually be a heavier gauge wire that doesn't flex as easily. Good luck, if you need more info, please ask.

Posted on Apr 12, 2011

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