Question about 1996 Nissan Maxima

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New starter whirs, does not engage. Push starts OK.

Just replaced starter with re-manufactured one. Battery shows 12.6V. Starter whirs, but does not engage. I can easily push start, but if I shutdown and try starter again, same failure...whirs, does not engage. Any ideas? Thanks in advance!

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  • John Georges Jul 14, 2013

    Turns out, the re-manufactured starter was bad too. I returned it and bought a brand new starter. Installed it and it works like a champ.
    Lesson learned. Save yourself time and a headache, and just pay a few dollars more for a new starter in the first place.

  • John Georges Jul 14, 2013

    Turns out, the re-manufactured starter was bad too. I returned it
    and bought a brand new starter. Installed it and it works like a champ.
    Lesson learned. Save yourself time and a headache, and just pay a few dollars more for a new starter in the first place.

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12.6V is kinda low for a car battery. It should be closer to 13.8V with the engine off. I would try jump starting the car using another car/battery and if that works then have your battery load tested as it may be on its way out. If the battery load tests fine then I would look at the alternator or see if you can swap the re-man'ed starter for another one

Posted on Jul 13, 2013

  • John Georges Jul 13, 2013

    I also used a Diehard Powerpack that indicated 13.8V and got the same symptom...whir, but no engage.

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SOURCE: 1995 Nissan PU wont start. Has battery, starter,

I just fixed my exact same problem. Everyone told me the starter was bad. I knew it had to be electrical because there was no noise when I tried to start the engine. Here's a good way to check to be sure your starter is not the problem. With your key removed from the ignition, the truck in neutral, and the parking brake applied, look under the hood and over the wheel well on the passenger side you'll see a long (about 6-8 inches) black box. This has a removable cover. Take it off and you'll see a bank or relays. First, swap out a relay from another spot on the relay block with the relay in the Clutch inhibit relay spot. The relay location should be marked on the top of the plastic cover. If your truck starts, then you know you have a bad relay. If it still doesn't start, remove the relay from the clutch inhibit socket. Next, take a piece of wiring, about 1 foot will do, and touch one end to the positive post on the battery and the other end of the wire to the socket. If you are looking down at the socket, you'll see 4 prong recepticles. The one to the right and closest to you should be the one you touch with the wire, if the engine doesn't crank, then try the other prong just above it. If the starter makes no effort to spin, then the starter is bad. If it does spin, then you have an open circuit somewhere between your battery to your clutch switch, ignition switch, back to your clutch relay. Rather than try to open harnesses and trace the wire, I just installed a push button and mounted it next to by fuse box below the steering wheel. A wire from the positive post to the button and back to the clutch relay socket took care of my problem.

Posted on Jul 26, 2009

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