Question about Ford Crown Victoria
Had car at mechanics 2 weeks, could not get a code, car started every time, day i go to pick it up would not start, had one more week. couldnt find anything. 3 mechanics told me 3 different things, ASK.com said IAC valve, Discount autoparts Crankshaft sensor, and neighbor who is a mechanic ask me to push stradder/statter valve on fuel rail.(with ingition on) barely anything came out. he then had me check, swithc relay for fuel pump. ItSTARTED!!!, but now at work, wont start again...it had been stalling all along, intermitenly..usually when i slowed down, but it would start back up again, now nothing. Why would the Relay have made a difference and now nothing
That was a schrader valve you were fooling with, much like a tire valve. Thats where mechanics hook up a gauge to check for fuel pressure.
The fuel pump relay could be going bad and not working sometimes. A mechanic would check the relay to see if it is sending power to the pump. You could swap out the relay with a new one, or jumper it to get the car home if that is the problem.
Posted on Jul 12, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Sounds like you have some EGR ports clogged up, remove the intake and look at the egr ports all but
#1 cyl port will probably be at least partially clogged, hope this helps
Posted on Nov 18, 2008
Hey Tim take a look at this, will this help ?
No Engine Crank Or No Engine Start Due To Electronic Lockup Of The WCM / SKREEM
This bulletin involves the replacement of the Wireless Control Module (WCM), and if
equipped, the replacement of the Electric Steering Column Lock (ELV). The WCM is also
referred to as the Sentry Key Remote Entry Module (SKREEM).
The customer will experience a no engine crank AND a no engine start condition. Also, the
remote keyless entry (RKE) system will not operate. This condition may be due to an
electrostatic discharge (ESD) from the ignition key into the Wireless Control Module
(WCM), causing the WCM to electronically lockup. This condition may occur more
frequently in dry and/or cold weather conditions where a sufficient electrostatic charge is
more easily produced. This condition is corrected by the replacement of the WCM
1. With the condition present (i.e. the vehicle in the no crank / no start condition), connect
the StarSCAN® scan tool to the vehicle.
2. Turn the ignition switch to the “ON” position, and power up the StarSCAN®.
3. If the WCM is electronically locked up, the StarSCAN® will display the WCM as being
4. If the no crank / no start condition is present, and the WCM is “off bus”, then reset the
WCM by temporarily removing the IOD fuse (with the key out of the ignition switch),
wait for 10 seconds and then reinstall the IOD fuse.
5. With the IOD fuse reset having been performed, verify that the vehicle will now crank,
start, and run.
6. If the condition is temporarily corrected by performing the above steps, and if the part
number of the WCM is earlier than the part number of the WCM listed in the part
reference table in the Service Bulletin Parts Required Section below, then perform the
Posted on Jun 24, 2009
Check out the catalytic converter, might be plugged up. I have seen some cars that will run fine, and like someone threw a switch the car acted like yours, no power, would not rev and died. Later when cold they would be OK for a while then just get worse and worse.
Posted on Jul 03, 2009
Ok then, from your description and the
make/model/year of the car you have there,
it appears you've reset the VATS.
The car's security immobilizer
reader at the key switch
does not recognize the coded
chip in the ignition key any longer.
You can try to put the key
in the ignition, turn to the on position &
wait at least 10 min like that.
(Do not turn off the key switch before
10 minutes as elapsed!)
Once done, the key is re-programmed and
should allow the fuel injectors to work again.
The car would start now if corrected.
In some cases, the VATS (GM'S VEHICLE ANTI THEFT SYSTEM)
will re learn the code this way, and will then
allow the restart, however if this does not work,
then you can simply tow it to any GM vehicle dealer
to have the service department re code it.
There is a permanent solution though.
Adding the PLJX Self learning Bypass module (59.95)
will bypass the PASSLOCK system in your vehicle
for good. See this at www.PASSLOCK2.com
Good luck I hope method 1 does the trick!
Here is the 30 min relearn:
Ignition keys relearn takes about 30 min to do. 30-Minute Learn Procedure 1. Turn ON the ignition, with the engine OFF. 2. Attempt to start the engine, then release the key to ON; the vehicle will not start. 3. Observe the SECURITY tell tale light. After approximately 10 minutes, the light will turn OFF. 4. Turn OFF the ignition switch, and wait 5 seconds. 5. Repeat steps 1 through 4 - two more times - for a total of 3 cycles of 10 minutes. 3x10 = 30 minutes. The vehicle is now ready to relearn the Passlock Sensor Data Code and/or passwords on the next ignition switch turn from OFF to CRANK Important: Turn the Ignition Switch OFF. The vehicle learns the Passlock Sensor Data Code and/or password on the next ignition switch transition from OFF to CRANK. You must turn the ignition OFF before attempting to start the vehicle. 6. Start the engine. The vehicle has now learned the Passlock Sensor Data Code and/or password. 7. With a scan tool, clear any DTCs if needed. History DTCs will self clear after 100 ignition cycles. Without a scan tool you may have momentary starter interruptions while history clears itself.
Posted on Dec 23, 2009
Start with the simple and replace the fuel filter. The fuel filter should be replaced every 15,000 miles or once a year to ensure the fuel system is running 100%. Auto Zone will have the fuel filter and can give you the step by step instructions to getting the job done with common tools. If it's the fuel pump failure, you have not gotten the car restarted. Good luck and keep me posted, be glad to know you got your car running 100% again soon and please rate.
Posted on Jan 11, 2010
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