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ive heard of folks doing it without a crane but i would not try it , alignment is too critical with getting guides and stops back in and with nothing to move boom that would be too difficult
anyways: suspend boom end with double straps from crane , disconnect hydraulic/electric swivels/plugs at truck end lift end of boom slightly with boom all the way extended straight out , remove acess panel (both sides) at jct of upper/lower boom section . remove C clip one side drive out pin oppisite side (wiggle boom to clear pin) locate stops in lower section boom end unbolt , slowly pull upper boom with crane away take care of hydraulic lines and electric wires set on floor on wood cribbing , locate bottom of cylinder truck end find C clip and pin Might be behind a trim cover that might need to be remove drive out pin also remove bottom cylinder hyd hose connect crane to cylinder end move out a foot or so remove top cyliinder hydraulic hose then carefully slide out cylinider with crane , Note if your valves are not tight and new oil will leak back and cause boom base to sag when you unhook hydraulic hoses , your gonna need to block this up with wood cribbing just in case
reverse removal process to install new one , also i would not just install a new seal (you can) with out having cylinder recromed I'll bet it's rusty thats what tears the seals up
and allways replace entire oil volume in hydraulics your old seal is in old oil not good for the new one
Pretty simple, really. Look under your hood. There are 2 hoses going from the radiator to the engine- one from the top of the radiator & one from the bottom. Follow the bottom one from the radiator to the engine block (if its still the same setup as the '07s, this should be at the bottom of the block, on the front left corner... that's YOUR left). the hose connects to a sort of dome-shaped inlet. That's the thermostat housing. Take it off to get to your thermostat. This should go without saying, but I'll say it anyway just in case..... The hoses are full of coolant, so be sure to have something underneath to catch it when you disconnect the hose & take off the housing. Also should go without saying, but make sure you do it when the car is cold... you know, so you don't get third degree burns from being splashed by scalding hot coolant! Hope this helped....
Cougars have IACV valves (idle air bypass control valves) through with engine gets idle air. Its a valve and opens and closes by a solenoid. Most of the time due to excess carbon it remains stuck closed. or may be faulty. And it wont allow air for idling. Throttle body will be completely closed when you take foot off accelerator, so no air and no idling. Check the image at the bottom to locate IACV valve. You can undo that valve and clean it with WD-40. You can feel the solenoid clicking when you keep your finger on it while starting the car or when you take foot off the accelerater.
Other possibilities could be the vacuum hoses. Check and see all plastic vacuum hoses are hooked up and not broken. Checking vacuum hoses resolves most of the issues on cougars.
The radiator itself, will rest on a "shelf" at the bottom, and bolt to the top front of the car (inside engine compartment). There should then be an upper hose, that will connect to the thermostat housing, and the bottom hose that connects to the water pump.
You may want to purchase a CHILTON auto repair manual for this installation; you can pick one up for about 20 bucks at any auto parts store.
Please let me know if you need any further assistance.
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The fan won't come on because the thermoswitch is in the bottom of the radiator, without coolant flow the switch never gets hot. Just because a part is new doesn't mean it is good, is the thermostat an aftermarket part ? I would take out the thermostat (leave the gasket) and see if the bottom hose gets warm. If the bottom hose does not get warm, you may have a blockage or bad water pump
actually no it wouldnt immediately. As long as all your fuel and air lines are hooked up (i.e. vaccum) your fine! Because 1988 didnt have a programmed sync with it's computer to run with or without the turbo it has little affect. But, it will lag your power after you start sometimes it will shut off. But it does run without it. A turbo system is just a superman air induction system. Thats all.I have seen one drive without Turbo. Why would you need to run it without turbo anyways?
Hope this helps more than the other guy commenting.
on your post . you said radiator but on the thread topic, you pick coolant bottle.
anyway, if its the radiator, there are two big hose connected, one at the top and one at the bottom . then tehre is another small hose that is usually at the top where you put the radiator cap and this is the one going to the coolant bottle.
if your talking about the coolant bottle, there is one hose connected to the top where you put the radiator cap and the other one on the cover as an overflow hose.
it could be just open or another hose connected to it just to direct the water downwards. but it is not connected to anything.
the hose on the rack not at the right place double check that if there ok and it wasnt doing that before the valve in the rack defect doing that i seen that it was the pressure line not the right place or broken inside the hose good luck HOPE IT FIXYA OUR POST PIERRE