Question about 1998 Ford Windstar

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Measuring spoon wheel adjuster

My van is pulling to the right, pretty hard. It has gotten worse in the passed two weeks or so. It's traction control light stays on, the person i got it from (just about 1 1/2 months ago) said that his mechanic says it's just in the light. Just discovered today that the driver's front tire has cords popping on the outer part of tire. my husband is willing to do the work if it just needs alignment, but we need the measurements. thanks

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  • Angela Kilpatrick
    Angela Kilpatrick Jul 12, 2013

    Also the abs light stays on a lot. The brakes work great, just the light stays on. The van was in an accident sometime before I got it. It tapped (dented slightly) the driver's front fender.



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  • Ford Master
  • 3,787 Answers

You need to have it properly aligned, the tracking is different on every vehicle there is an amount of play in the adjustments but if it will not go into the recommend rang on the alignment then there is a problem, before taking to have this done make sure the tracking nuts and bars are easily moveable, undo them and move back and forth as if they find it hard to move they charge you more, if they can undo the nuts and move the bars around easy they cannot charge you for the extra charge. also make sure you have new tyres fitted as work or uneven ware can affect the camber to the road and wear the tyres down quicker and cause other problems later on.

Posted on Jun 21, 2017


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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Mechanic says the front inner tie rods need replacement

They do not wear out that fast, 80,000 miles is a typical replacement point in your Taurus., get a 2nd opinion, wobble can also be caused by bad tires, i.e. a separated tire cord inside the tire. rotated the tires and see if it helps the problem, also an alignment is a good idea.
I am a retired Ford dealer technician, 30 years in the business.


Posted on Nov 24, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: '98 Windstar ABS and traction control lights after getting brakes done

Prior to the brakes being replaced you more than likely had metal to metal contact which can throw metal shavings on the ABS wheel sensors. This metal shavings stick to the road grime on the wheel sensors showing the ABS computer a false reading making the ABS light come on. On Ford Windstars, the ABS light and the traction control light are on the same circuit. A simple (and cheap) fix is to pull the ABS wheel sensors and clean them with brake cleaner or throttle body cleaner. Make sure you dry them well and reinstall. On the Windstar there is one bold holding the sensors to the back of the wheels. I recommend you spray some WD40 on the bold and wait about 10 minutes before removing.
If this doesn't fix the ABS light and brakes, you can have the ABS system diagnosed at a shop for about an hour labor. (Usally about $100)
I have fixed many of these type of problems just by cleaning the ABS wheel sensors. Good luck.

Posted on Dec 13, 2008

  • 18 Answers

SOURCE: after replacing the left front wheel bearing on a 2003 ford focus, the abs and traction warning light stay on

The bearings on the wheels has to be installed one way only, the rotor ring is built into the bearing and if installed the wrong way round the sensor cant pick up the wheel speed causing the ligt to be switched on in the cluster. The diagnostic equipment should pick this up as a fault once the car has been driven, it will see the sensor when you do the diagnostic if the car is standing still but once the car is moving and no signal is send from that wheel it would register a fault into the memory of the PCM that you would be able to retrieve later.
There is a way for you to test the sensor yourself by using a multimeter set on volts, you jack the vehicle up at that wheel, install a vehicle stand to support the vehicle to be safe, disconect the wheel speed sensor and probe the two wires into the sensor, spin the wheel by hand and a small amount of current will be produced meaning the the sensor is working and the wheel bearing is installed the correct way, you can also do a continuaty test on the sensor by switching the multimeter onto ohms, but be very carefull, if this sensor has three wires you cant do the continuaty test because of the integrated circuit in the sensor, the three wire sensors opperate on a voltage from 5Volt and it would be destroyed by the multimeter opperating on 9Volt.
If the continuaty test passes and the bearing is installed the correct way, the most comon fault would be a break in the wiring leading to the PCM
Hope this will be helpfull.

Posted on May 04, 2009

  • 6982 Answers

SOURCE: Front passenger wheel thumping and shaking

You have a possibility of a couple of things going on there. If I was there, Id be able to eliminate a few rather quickly....First, check the tire for any out of round condition by jacking up that corner and turning the wheel, sighting along the edge of the tread area to a fixed point so you can see any variations. Do the same with both sidewalls. If you have a broken internal belt, it can build up heat as it shifts while driving.
Next, check the brake rotors. If the brakes are staying applied slightly while driving, the rotor will begin to turn brownish or blue. If you find that is the case, check the caliper slides to make sure that the caliper can move freely.
If that seems OK, it is possible that the rubber hose going to the caliper has internally failed which can also keep the brake applied. If after removing the hose from the caliper, you cannot retract the caliper piston easily, then the caliper likely has rust around the piston bore and needs to be replaced.
A quick check for brake binding is to jack up the wheel after driving till it gets hot. With the transmission in neutral, try to turn the wheel. If there is excessive drag there your problem is one of the items I just mentioned.
Only other thing I can think of is some strange malfunction in abs system, but generally, you would have a failure light on the dash.

Posted on Aug 30, 2009

  • 986 Answers

SOURCE: 2006 focus ABS and Traction control lights came on

It may have pushed one of you sensor back away from your tone wheel its a common problem,all you have to do is push the sensor back againts your wheel and it will set itself,I hope this helps you and thanks

Posted on Dec 10, 2009

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Traction control prolbem

Most likely one of your wheel sensors is disconnected, shorted, or simply not registering. All these systems work on measuring wheel rotation. If one or more sensors can't measure wheel rotation, you get a service light.

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Why does the "service traction system" and "service ABS" light to come on when driving?

The service ABS light on while driving means that the ABS wheel speed sensor is defective or a broken wire that goes to the sensor. You now only have regular braking. This means that you can now lock up one or more wheels with hard braking. Then the car can swerve either left or right while braking hard. The traction control must also rely on the ABS wheel speed sensor to keep both front wheels spinning at the same speed for safety reasons. This prevents loss of control of your car while getting better traction with the tires.

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'99 Jeep Cherokee Sport 4.0 Clicking/popping when I turn the wheel to the left, such as pulling into a parking space or making a u-turn. Started a few days ago and has gotten worse very quickly.

sounds like your cv joint is bad . Have it replaced sooner rather than later as when it fails, you'll be stuck somewhere and will need a tow.

Apr 20, 2012 | 1999 Jeep Cherokee 4WD

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Transmission has been rebuilt. Two weeks late gears would start to grind and has progressively gotten worse

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Replacing rear brakes

It is a good idea to only disassemble and assemble one side at a time, leaving the other side intact as a reference.

  1. Raise and support the vehicle safely.
  2. Remove the brake drum.
  3. Disconnect the parking brake rear cable and conduit.
  4. Remove the brake shoe hold-down springs and brake shoe hold-down pins.
  5. Remove the brake shoe adjusting screw spring.
  6. Remove the brake shoe adjusting lever and adjuster screw.
  7. Remove the brake shoe retracting spring.
  8. Remove the brake shoes from the backing plate.
  9. Remove and discard the parking brake lever clip. Remove the washer.
  10. Remove the parking brake lever from the rear brake shoe.

To install:
  1. Thoroughly clean the backing plate with brake cleaning solvent and dry completely.
  2. Use silicone grease to lubricate the brake backing plate-to-brake shoe contact areas.
  3. Apply a light coating of premium grease to the threaded areas of the adjuster. Turn the adjuster in and out to spread the lubricant. Turn the adjuster all the way down on the screw and loosen one-half turn.
  4. Install the parking brake lever to the rear (secondary) brake shoe with a new clip.
  5. Position the brake shoes on the backing plate and install the brake shoe hold-down springs.
  6. Attach the parking brake rear cable and conduit to the parking brake lever.
  7. Attach the brake shoe retracting spring.

The socket end of the brake adjuster screw is stamped with "R" or "L" to indicate that it is to be installed either on the right (passenger's side) or left (driver's side) of the vehicle. The adjuster nuts can be distinguished by the number of grooves machined around the body of the nut. Two grooves indicate a right-hand adjuster nut and one groove indicates a left-hand adjuster nut. Another way to identify brake adjuster assemblies is to check thread pitch. The right side adjuster assembly has right-hand threads and the left side has left-hand threads. If installed correctly, the brake adjuster assembly will increase in length when the brake shoe adjusting lever is operated.
  1. Install brake adjuster screw in the slots on the brake shoes. The wider slot on the socket end must fit in the slot on the front (primary) brake shoe.
  2. Install the brake shoe adjusting lever on the lever pin.
  3. Install the brake adjusting screw in the slot on the secondary brake shoe and in the slot on the brake shoe lever. The brake shoe adjusting lever should contact the brake adjuster screw.
  4. Adjust the brake shoes.
  5. Install the drums.


The drum brakes are self-adjusting and require a manual adjustment only after the brake shoes have been replaced, or when the length of the adjusting screw has been changed while performing some other service operation.
Drum Installed

  1. Raise and support the vehicle safely.
  2. Remove the rubber plug from the adjusting slot on the backing plate.
  3. Insert a Brake Adjustment Tool (D81L-1103-C) or equivalent into the slot and engage the lowest possible tooth on the starwheel. Move the end of the brake spoon downward to move the starwheel upward and expand the adjusting screw. Repeat this operation until the brakes lock the wheels.
  4. Insert a small screwdriver or piece of firm wire (coat hanger wire) into the adjusting slot and push the automatic adjusting lever out and free of the starwheel on the adjusting screw and hold it there.
  5. Engage the topmost tooth possible on the starwheel with the brake adjusting spoon. Move the end of the adjusting spoon upward to move the adjusting screw starwheel downward and contract the adjusting screw. Back off the adjusting screw starwheel until the wheel spins freely with a minimum of drag. Keep track of the number of turns that the starwheel is backed off, or the number of strokes taken with the brake adjusting spoon.
  6. Repeat this operation for the other side. When backing off the brakes on the other side, the starwheel adjuster must be backed off the same number of turns to prevent side-to-side brake pull.
  7. When the brakes are adjusted, make several stops while backing the vehicle to equalize the brakes on both of the wheels.
  8. Lower the vehicle.

Drum Removed
See Figure 2

0900c152800ae432.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif

Fig. Fig. 2: When using a brake adjustment gauge, first measure the inside diameter of the drum (top) and then adjust the brakes shoes to the proper outside diameter (bottom)

  1. Remove the brake drum.
  2. Make sure that the shoe-to-contact pad areas are clean and properly lubricated.
  3. Using a Brake Adjustment Gauge (D81L-1103-A) or equivalent, check the inside diameter of the drum.
  4. Measure across the diameter of the assembled brake shoes, at their widest point.
  5. Turn the adjusting screw so that the diameter of the shoes is 0.030 in. (0.76mm) less than the brake drum inner diameter.
  6. Install the drum.


See Figure 3

0900c152800ae433.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif

Fig. Fig. 3: Measure brake shoe thickness in several places around the shoe
Inspect the brake shoes for wear using a ruler or Vernier caliper. Compare measurements to the brake specifications chart. If the lining is thinner than specification or there is evidence of the lining being contaminated by brake fluid or oil, replace all brake pad assemblies (a complete axle set).

Dec 19, 2010 | 1998 Ford Windstar

1 Answer

How do I remove the brake drum

First, block the front wheels, loosen the rear lug nuts, then jack up the rear wheels. Use jackstands to support the car -- not the jack! Find the proper location for the jackstands and make sure they are securely supporting the car.
Next, remove any factory drum retainer clips from the lug studs. You will likely have to destroy them, but don't worry because they're unnecessary.
Next, use a block of wood with a hammer to firmly tap around the drum -- always use a block of wood unless you use a special "dead blow" hammer. This action loosens rust between the drum and the lug studs, which may allow the drum to be removed.
If the drum still will not pull off, loosen the brake shoes with a special brake tool, sometimes called a "brake spoon," which is available at your auto parts store. You may need to remove a rubber weather plug to access the brake adjuster star wheel through the backing plate. Rotate the adjuster wheel just enough to remove the drum. (You'll know pretty quickly if you are tightening or loosening it.) If the drum is worn, there may be a "lip" around the outer edge, which is an area that does not come in contact with the brake shoes.
Upon removal, take the drums (both of them) to a brake shop. The shop will determine if they can be turned and reused by measuring the inside diameter of the worn area with calipers. There should be a maximum allowable measurement stamped or embossed on the outside of the drum. Don't be surprised if you need new drums, as they don't have as much metal as they used to. If they can be turned and reused, consider yourself lucky, and be sure to replace the brake shoes.

Jul 09, 2009 | 1997 Ford Escort

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The rear wheel on my 1996 plymouth voyager will not come off. The parking brakes are off. I tried pulling it off with a wheel puller. The top of the drum is releasing fine, but the bottom of the hub is...

There are cut outs on the back of the drums were you can adjust the star adjuster with a brake spoon or straight blade screwdriver. Sounds like you adjusters are out forcing the drums to get hung up.

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