Question about 1998 Ford Windstar
My van is pulling to the right, pretty hard. It has gotten worse in the passed two weeks or so. It's traction control light stays on, the person i got it from (just about 1 1/2 months ago) said that his mechanic says it's just in the light. Just discovered today that the driver's front tire has cords popping on the outer part of tire. my husband is willing to do the work if it just needs alignment, but we need the measurements. thanks
You need to have it properly aligned, the tracking is different on every vehicle there is an amount of play in the adjustments but if it will not go into the recommend rang on the alignment then there is a problem, before taking to have this done make sure the tracking nuts and bars are easily moveable, undo them and move back and forth as if they find it hard to move they charge you more, if they can undo the nuts and move the bars around easy they cannot charge you for the extra charge. also make sure you have new tyres fitted as work or uneven ware can affect the camber to the road and wear the tyres down quicker and cause other problems later on.
Posted on Jun 21, 2017
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
They do not wear out that fast, 80,000 miles is a typical replacement point in your Taurus., get a 2nd opinion, wobble can also be caused by bad tires, i.e. a separated tire cord inside the tire. rotated the tires and see if it helps the problem, also an alignment is a good idea.
I am a retired Ford dealer technician, 30 years in the business.
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Posted on Nov 24, 2008
Prior to the brakes being replaced you more than likely had metal to metal contact which can throw metal shavings on the ABS wheel sensors. This metal shavings stick to the road grime on the wheel sensors showing the ABS computer a false reading making the ABS light come on. On Ford Windstars, the ABS light and the traction control light are on the same circuit. A simple (and cheap) fix is to pull the ABS wheel sensors and clean them with brake cleaner or throttle body cleaner. Make sure you dry them well and reinstall. On the Windstar there is one bold holding the sensors to the back of the wheels. I recommend you spray some WD40 on the bold and wait about 10 minutes before removing.
If this doesn't fix the ABS light and brakes, you can have the ABS system diagnosed at a shop for about an hour labor. (Usally about $100)
I have fixed many of these type of problems just by cleaning the ABS wheel sensors. Good luck.
Posted on Dec 13, 2008
The bearings on the wheels has to be installed one way only, the rotor ring is built into the bearing and if installed the wrong way round the sensor cant pick up the wheel speed causing the ligt to be switched on in the cluster. The diagnostic equipment should pick this up as a fault once the car has been driven, it will see the sensor when you do the diagnostic if the car is standing still but once the car is moving and no signal is send from that wheel it would register a fault into the memory of the PCM that you would be able to retrieve later.
There is a way for you to test the sensor yourself by using a multimeter set on volts, you jack the vehicle up at that wheel, install a vehicle stand to support the vehicle to be safe, disconect the wheel speed sensor and probe the two wires into the sensor, spin the wheel by hand and a small amount of current will be produced meaning the the sensor is working and the wheel bearing is installed the correct way, you can also do a continuaty test on the sensor by switching the multimeter onto ohms, but be very carefull, if this sensor has three wires you cant do the continuaty test because of the integrated circuit in the sensor, the three wire sensors opperate on a voltage from 5Volt and it would be destroyed by the multimeter opperating on 9Volt.
If the continuaty test passes and the bearing is installed the correct way, the most comon fault would be a break in the wiring leading to the PCM
Hope this will be helpfull.
Posted on May 04, 2009
You have a possibility of a couple of things going on there. If I was there, Id be able to eliminate a few rather quickly....First, check the tire for any out of round condition by jacking up that corner and turning the wheel, sighting along the edge of the tread area to a fixed point so you can see any variations. Do the same with both sidewalls. If you have a broken internal belt, it can build up heat as it shifts while driving.
Next, check the brake rotors. If the brakes are staying applied slightly while driving, the rotor will begin to turn brownish or blue. If you find that is the case, check the caliper slides to make sure that the caliper can move freely.
If that seems OK, it is possible that the rubber hose going to the caliper has internally failed which can also keep the brake applied. If after removing the hose from the caliper, you cannot retract the caliper piston easily, then the caliper likely has rust around the piston bore and needs to be replaced.
A quick check for brake binding is to jack up the wheel after driving till it gets hot. With the transmission in neutral, try to turn the wheel. If there is excessive drag there your problem is one of the items I just mentioned.
Only other thing I can think of is some strange malfunction in abs system, but generally, you would have a failure light on the dash.
Posted on Aug 30, 2009
It may have pushed one of you sensor back away from your tone wheel its a common problem,all you have to do is push the sensor back againts your wheel and it will set itself,I hope this helps you and thanks
Posted on Dec 10, 2009
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REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
It is a good idea to only disassemble and assemble one side at a time, leaving the other side intact as a reference.
The drum brakes are self-adjusting and require a manual adjustment only after the brake shoes have been replaced, or when the length of the adjusting screw has been changed while performing some other service operation.
Fig. Fig. 2: When using a brake adjustment gauge, first measure the inside diameter of the drum (top) and then adjust the brakes shoes to the proper outside diameter (bottom)
Fig. Fig. 3: Measure brake shoe thickness in several places around the shoe
Inspect the brake shoes for wear using a ruler or Vernier caliper. Compare measurements to the brake specifications chart. If the lining is thinner than specification or there is evidence of the lining being contaminated by brake fluid or oil, replace all brake pad assemblies (a complete axle set).
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