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1997 buick skylark temperature sensor location

The radiator-A/C fan works sporadically on the car. Sometimes it starts and turns but it doesn't sound or feel to be as strong as expected. It stays on just a few seconds then slows and stops. It doesn't shut off immediately, just gets slower and finally stops. As soon as it stops, I can 'jump start' it again by pushing the blade with my finger and the fan will start up again, pick up a little speed, then slow and stop again. The car will overheat if driven in stop and go traffic for awhile, and the A/C gets warm at red lights. To test the fan's motor, I disconnected the plug and powered it using a 12V motorcycle battery and the fan is very strong (like how it should be). Is this problem caused by the temperature sensor, the relay, or is the fan speed for this model car also controlled by the high pressure switch in the A/C system? Thank you

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  • Cars & Trucks Master
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The radiator fan gets the power from a relay that is energized by a signal from the ECM that in turn gets a report from the coolant temperature sensor
AT this point I would be thinking that there is considerable resistance in the relay
you say the fan works a bit so the temp sensor is reporting toe the ECM which is turning the relay on but power is low from there
replace the fan relay and see if the situation improves
you can test that theory by putting a meter across the wires to the fan when it should be working and reading the voltage available to the fan
if it is not 12 volts or better( 13.2-14 volts) it is the relay

Posted on Mar 13, 2017

Testimonial: "Thank you for taking the time to answer my query. The car was totaled in an accident last year. I did track it down myself, and it was very oddly the fan itself. When I had disconnected the fan and attached a separate 12V battery, the fan worked, until I placed a piece of cardboard close enough to replicate the air resistance (slight vacuum state) caused by the radiator and A/C radiator being in front of the fan. It stopped working. I took the cardboard away and it started up again. This is the strangest case I've come across in all my years. Stranger still, is that I posted this at least 2 years ago, but under my post I just saw that it says I posted this on March 13th of this year. How can that be? Unless Fixya is recycling old questions. I'm sorry it did not show the correct posting date. It would have saved you from taking your valuable time to reply to me. Regards, Dave"

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SOURCE: Radiator Electric Fan Motor on a 2003 Buick Century won't come on when temp gets high

I have a 1997 Buick Century with the same problem. Both my fans work if the A/C is
on as they should. If your turn off the A/C the passanger side fan will not come on
and at an idle the coolant in the radiator will boil, you can hear it in the overflow tank.
If you are driving there is enough air flow thru the radiator that the coolant doesn't
boil and the car doesn't overheat. I have replace the water pump, the thermostat.
and the ETS or engine temperature sensor mounted just above the thermostat in
the thernostat housing, to no avail, I still have the same problem. The only other
thing is the coolant level sensor in the radiator, which I haven't replace yet due
to the fact you have to pull the radiator in order to replace it, which is a major
undertaking. I have a low coolant indicator on all the time on the dash so I have
a pretty good idea the coolanat level sensor is bad. The coolant level is not low
so that sensor is not working as it should. I hope this may help with your problem.
To test you fan raise the hood when it is cold and top off the radiator and fill the
overflow tank to the cold mark. Start the car and let it idle with the A/C off and
see if the drivers side fans comes on. It will have to get to operating temp
before the fan will come on. If it doesn't come on replace the radiator low coolant
sensor on the passanger side of the radiator. If that doesn't fix the problem
replace the thermostat and the Engine Temperature Sensor at the thermostat
housing with an A/C Delco Engine Temperature Sensor. Good Luck..

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In my 2001 Town and Country without automatic temperature control, my heater/AC blower suddenly worked only when set on high. Usually, that problem is your blower resistor pack.

I had to search for the one in my van since the parts man wasn’t sure where it was except that he thought it was in the dash somewhere. (In some other vans it was under the hood.) My Haynes manual didn’t have anything on it except a picture showing it with the blower. I found it directly behind the glove compartment. Very easy to get to once you know where it is.

The glove box can be lowered all the way out of the way just by pulling in the sides so the rubber stoppers come out toward you. The sides bend easily to allow that.

The glove box being out reveals the resistor in the heating duct right in front of you. Just remove the two sets of wires and two bolts (10mm socket, I think) and the resistor pack slides right out. Then bolt in the new one an plug the wires back in (they only fit in one way). Fold the glove box back up and press the stops in to get them back in place and you are done.

The resistor pack only cost $12 and change at my dealer. It is part number 1-04885583AB which was a replacement for the same number with AA at the end, so I’m guessing they had a lot of trouble with the AAs and so made a better AB.

Last Winter my heater blower fan worked only on High. I changed the front heater/AC blower resistor pack and was surprised at how easy it is, but I had to figure it out for myself since my Dealer's parts guy was no help as to where the part lived and my Haynes manual was just plain wrong. This was on a 2001 T+C. I'd be very surprised if the 2001 Caravan was any different. Don't know what other year vans would be the same. I do know some earlier generations had this resistor under the hood and Haynes had is with the blower sort of behind the instrument cluster.

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SOURCE: I have a 92 Honda accord Automatic Ex, the d4

That is a fault indication for your transmission. I am not positive but I think that indicates a fault in your forth gear solenoid. Your transmission is not going to last very long driving it like that. When you stomp on the gas and it does not accelerate, your clutch discs are slipping and burning. It won't take much of that to ruin them. You may want to take it to a good Honda transmission place. I don't know about the older Hondas, but the newer ones don't have any provision for removing a pan and working on them. They don't even have a line replacable filter.
Check your transmission fluid dipstick. If its not a nice "bright" red color, you are probably burning up your clutches. The darker the fluid, the more contaminated it is.

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I am attending to your problem and am in the process of drawing up the diagram as requested.

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Tip

Find Causes of Engine Overheating


If your engine is overheating, Try this procedure:

  • Dirt and debris can get lodged in the radiator air flow paths. This can block the radiator and cause your engine to overheat and damage the engine.

  • The thermostat can be stuck close. If you feel the upper hose very hot and the lower hose cooler than normal, it may be a stuck thermostat.

  • Make sure the radiator and the overflow bottle are filled to the proper levels.

  • Bleed air from the coolant system:This is best done by running the engine with the radiator cap off until you see when the air bubbles stop coming up.

  • Check the radiator fans: The easiest way is to turn on the cars air conditioner and turn up the A/C fans. Both radiator fans should come on when the A/C starts

  • Make a pressure test by using a pressure testing tool (available at most auto parts stores). Use the pressure shown on your radiator cap. Most cars are 16 PSI or less, so don't exceed that pressure. Replace the radiator cap if it doesn't hold the pressure.

  • This procedure does not cover other engine internal issues like blown head gasket. If this is required, another procedure will be followed.

.

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