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My 77 Chevy truck will not start?

I just lost all power.I can hot wire it at the engine to get it to work.The starter and ignition switch are fine.I cant find any shorts or bad fuseable links but cant say for sure im not missing something.Cables are good and ther are no blown fuses.When this all started I had a direct short when the key was on.The positive battery cable would heat up and now the short isnt ther anymore but i still have no ignition.I need this thing to run to get by and i cant aford to pay a machanic.Please help.

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  • Cars & Trucks Master
  • 48,260 Answers

Check for an ignition relay

Posted on May 25, 2017


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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Vehicle won't start after replacing

I believe I would go and recheck the starter installation make sure you have no ground wires on with the battery wire on the starter If it did not do it before and now that you changed the starter you need to go back and recheck your install.57479478Hope this helps if this information is helpful please give me a fixya Rating and if you need any further help with this problem contact me please. Thanks, Randy

Posted on Aug 21, 2008

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SOURCE: starter won't turn over,I shorted

That wire may be coming from a relay so you may need a service manual to find which one it is.
BTW, to save frying all of your screwdrivers, applying 12 volts for a moment to the terminal with the smaller gauge wire will cause the solenoid to operate as it was designed. Shorting across the main solenoid terminals lets ~ 100-200 amps flow through your screwdriver which isn't even a very good conductor.
Even a light clip lead to the coil terminal of the solenoid could handle the lower current that flows there.
For purposes of doing several different engine tasks, I made up a momentary pushbutton switch contraption housed in a plastic film canister, put 6' wires and heavy clips on it so I could 'jiggle' an engine into the next cycle.    

Posted on Oct 12, 2008

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SOURCE: H2 Hummer

Today 11-12-08 my 2003 H2 Hummer would not start. Checked battery it ischarged. Cables tight. Tried to start with portable booster pak. No go. Tridto jump start with my wife's Suburban. Still no go.
When I turn the switch I hear a single click and that is it. No engine turning over. While trying to start with key the headlights go out. Out of ideas, Will take to Chevy garage in am. Will post solution.

Posted on Nov 13, 2008

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SOURCE: I have a 1999 jeep cherokee 4x4 4.0L I6. I was

If you had a short that large before you started working on the batt cables, it would have burned long before it did. Check your work over and see where it's grounding. You can make a temporary link by using a new piece of wire the same as the gauge at both ends of the link and sectioning in a short piece of smaller ga. wire. Hopefully you didn't damage the alternator or other electronics. The original problem sounds like possibly the fuel pump anti drain-back valve is bad (integral with pump) Testing pressure will verify that.
You can disconnect alternator, but the fuse method you mentioned sounds more reasonable.

Posted on Jun 15, 2009

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SOURCE: driver side window isnt working but the rest

I believe you need a new switch in drivers door goto a wrecker , new GM ones are $$$$$, happened to me, i just unhooked battery to clear a CEL and had window open at the time ( won't do that again ) and door locks and drivers window won't work ,, checked fuses ,everything good then took door apart and put power to window motor was able to put it up, googled and found lots of people in same boat , hope it works for you ,,,,D

Posted on Dec 05, 2009

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Cat 420D won't crank over to start , lights all work , battery seems fine

There would be a wire from the ignition switch to the starter solenoid. When the solenoid is energized, it connects battery power from the big cable to the starter motor. When the switch is turned to start, this solenoid wire is hot- has voltage on it. Pull off the wire and check, or just check that the wire has voltage with the key switch held in start. If it is not hot, you have to work your way back to the switch to see where the power is lost. Also test that the switch has power to it from the battery. Eventually you may need a wiring diagram if not able to locate the problem easily.

Aug 08, 2017 | Cars & Trucks

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On my 1976 Chevy C20 pickup I go to start it and starter won't stop running I bench tested and it works fine so what could be the problem

If the starter and solenoid is good and not hanging up I would check the Ignition switch to make sure it is releasing back after turning it to the start position. Be sure key is not sticking.

Apr 23, 2017 | Cars & Trucks

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Motor don't turn nothing dash lights and head lights 1985toyota pu

Do the gauges and warning lights work with key on? If not, check fusible links, AM1 for ignition key power. If the gauges/warning lights work, the key switch has power, so you can follow it to the starter solenoid. The start wire out of the ignition switch is a black/white wire, this is the hot wire to the solenoid, and only has power when key is held in start. With automatics, there is only one switch-a neutral start switch- between the ignition switch and the solenoid on the starter .

With a manual transmission, the black-white start wire goes to both a starter relay and a clutch start switch (on the clutch pedal), those two work together to send the power on to the starter solenoid. So, no crank, good battery, power to key, follow the black/white wire, the start relay and the clutch switch, to the starter solenoid- a hot wire there turns the starter motor on.

Mar 17, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Engine will not start when hot

Difficult to start with hot engine
1. Starter signal circuit.
- Switch off the engine.
- Connect the scan tool, if you have one.
- Switch on the engine (Do not start). Switch on the scanner.
- Select connect/ engine and power-train/ live data/ starter signal.
Note: Different scan tools can have different selection menus.
- Start the engine, watching the starter signal. If it changes from OFF to ON during starting, it is OK. If not then check the ignition switch and wiring for starter signal malfunction.
2. ISC valve circuit.
3. Fuel pump control circuit.
4. Fuel Injectors.
5. Ignition coil (w/ Igniter)
6. Spark plugs gaps.
7. Specific gravity and health of the battery.
8. ECU ground connectors for firm and clean connection to the engine. (Bunch of brown wires with metallic connectors).
9. Starter motor. (250 rpm).
Hope that works and thank you for visiting Fixya.

Jan 21, 2014 | 2004 Toyota Corolla

1 Answer

Chevy Tahoe Intermittent No Crank

I will try to help, powell. Your start circuit from battery to ignition switch to starter-and back to battery. You may need to check every thing here, including the grounds, for a loose connection, or just possibly a failing part.
If only complaint is intermittent starter action, and no other problems with ignition switch, let's assume switch is good, so battery to ignition switch is good. Now from the switch, a yellow start wire goes to the instrument panel fuse block, to "crank" fuse #8 (10 amp), from there a purple wire goes to the safety switch. If manual it is a clutch pedal position switch (simple on/off switch-when clutch down switch is on). If automatic, purple wire goes to Transmission Range Switch on the transm.-in park or neutral the purple wire has continuity in and out of switch.
From that switch, the purple wire goes to the starter relay (under hood fuse-relay center). Now the relay: purple wire in start will energize the relay- wire goes to coil side of relay, and then coil side goes to ground. On relay power side, the power feed is a red wire-and it is the same red wire that initially sends power to the ignition switch. A 40 amp fuse in fuse-relay center sends power to ignition switch, and a splice goes to the starter relay as the power feed for relay. When relay is energized, contacts close, and power is sent from relay to the starter solenoid, again on a purple wire. When solenoid contacts close, starter motor is connected to the big battery cable on the starter.

There is your start circuit. try a new or different relay, try a new or test the clutch switch (or transm. range switch). Buy a $5 test light and use it to check where power is lost when starter won't operate. Hold key in start and check if fuse #8 is getting power. Check the safety switch, with key held in start, the purple wire should be hot. Check if relay has a power feed (pull relay out and check terminals) and if relay coil has a power signal in start. Check the relay's coil side ground. If that ground is intermittent, relay won't work.
When it won't start, use a test light, you should be able to find it.
Good luck.

Jan 10, 2014 | 1997 Chevrolet Tahoe

2 Answers

Replaced starter and ignition relays under hood on my 99 chevy silverado and to wont do anything no security light no nothing is on everything good on all connections replaced wiring harness...

Is power getting to the ignition switch? Do the warning lights and gauges come on when key is turned to on? That would verify power in and power out at the switch. Then you would need to check the start circuit. A single start wire comes out of the switch, the signal travels through the neutral safety switch and a starter relay and then to the starter solenoid mounted on the starter. Solenoid closes contacts so battery power can operate the starter. If new starter doesn't work, power has been lost between the ignition switch and the starter.
If no power to the ignition switch check maxi fuses, all fuses in fact, and possibly a fusible link from the battery that may be the feed for the switch.

Sep 22, 2013 | 1999 Chevrolet Silverado 1500

1 Answer

My 77 chevy ignition wont let me start it

add a push start button its cheap and easy 2 wires one connected to positive post of battery 2 nd wire connected to starter place them on push start switch and thats that

Jun 25, 2013 | 1983 Chevrolet Silverado

1 Answer

Help identifying problem starting hyundai excel 1996

Sounds like a problem with the wiring between ignition switch and the starter. Something like a weak connection, an obstinate switch that is old and sticking, or a component that is starting to fail. There aren't that many parts in the starting circuit, but until you find the problem, you may end up checking them all. If all other electrics are good, then it is confined to the starting circuit-which starts with the start wire out of the switch, and ends at the starter solenoid on the starter. With a test light or a voltmeter, one could begin at either end and trace the signal through the circuit. Easiest, I guess, is take a test light grounded to the engine block or to the negative post on the battery, and check for power on the small wire at the starter solenoid while someone holds the key in crank position. Do this when you turn the key and nothing happens, starter won't turn. If you have power there when the starter wont work, pretty obvious that the solenoid is not working all the time-they do get old and worn, and will stop working. The starter will have to be removed to replace the solenoid-some people just get a new starter with new solenoid attached and ready to install. More expensive than just a new solenoid, but then you don't have to change out the solenoid on the starter.
OK, go back to test: the car won't start, you check for power to starter solenoid with the key in start position, and you find no power. Now it gets more complicated: a wiring diagram for your excel may be needed. Generally, the hot start wire exiting the ignition switch will carry the signal through a starter relay and a clutch switch (on manuals, on automatics it would be the park/neutral switch and possibly an inhibitor relay-depending on the wiring set up). A tech or mechanic would begin by making sure the start wire out of the switch shows power in start. If not, replace ignition switch. If good, follow the wiring diagram to the next part, maybe the starter relay, and see if the start signal is still good. Pull the relay out and use your test light: with the key held in start, probe all terminals of the relay. Two should have power. One would be your start wire, the other would be the (hot at all times) feed for the relay. You could tell which is which by finding the one hot terminal when key is not in start. If only one terminal at relay is hot, and it is the feed for the relay, go back! Start signal is already lost. If the feed wire is not hot, check battery connections. If good, the feed wire would come from a fuse link just off the battery or a maxi-fuse in the distribution box under hood. If you have two hot terminals, follow the start wire on towards the starter solenoid-you are done with starter relay, unless there is a problem there with the relay itself or the other two terminals at the relay. One terminal would carry the feed wire on towards the starter when relay is energized. The other terminal may just go to a ground or it may ground through the clutch switch If you are good to this point from the switch, you would just continue checking based on your readily available wiring diagram-hah! But really, you could find a diagram in a repair manual-check your library. These can be very frustrating problems, sometimes hard to find, sometimes easy. Post back if I can be of help. Good luck.

May 28, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

When I replaced the starter in 1992 chevy suburban the small wire that goes to the cylenoid is it supposed to have constant power?

If the wire goes to the alternator, then yes. The wire from the starter relay that goes to the "S" terminal of the solenoid should not be hot. There should be a large hot wire from the battery but there may also be a hot wire from the back of the alternator. These 2 would both go on the large post of the solenoid.

Oct 01, 2011 | 1992 Chevrolet Suburban

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