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1Loosen the lugs nuts using the tire iron. Place the wood blocks in front of the tires you will not be removing.
Raise the vehicle using the floor jack. Set the jack beneath the support strut that runs along the outer edge of the undercarriage. Raise it enough to allow the tires to clear the ground. Place the jack stands underneath the same strut as the jack.
Remove the lugs nuts completely and take the tire off. Set these all aside.
Remove the mounting bracket bolts with a socket wrench. The mounting bracket is the metal half-circle that is revealed when you remove the tire. Tie the mounting bracket to the undercarriage with rope to prevent stress damage to the brake line.
Remove the brake pads from the bracket by hand.
Compress the caliper cylinder with the C-clamp. The caliper cylinder is the 3- to 6-inch wide cylinder in the center of the bracket. Make sure that it is flush with the bracket.
Install the new brake pads where the old ones were.
Reattach the mounting bracket to the rotor. Reattach the tire and finger-tighten the lug nuts. Lower the vehicle and the tighten all of the nuts with the tire iron.
Tools: 3/8 drive sockets and ratchet. 4, 6in extensions. 3/8 to 1/2 in adapter and 1/2 in breaker bar, SAE wrench set, hex key set (large) Long big flat screwdriver vise grips, pliers, brake spring tools. Jacks stands and tire equipment. Supplies: New pads, shoes, and brake fluid. Jack up the front and jackstand the car (block the back tires w/ wooden chocks). Remove the front tires. Loosen the caliper assembly bolts and pry the caliper away from the pads. Remove bolts and lift caliper up and out of the way being careful not to damage the lines and keeping the pads matched. Replace in reverse. Do the rear next. Remove tires, drums. Use the brake spring tools to take the shoes off front lining first. Place the springs on the ground neatly (like they looked on the backing plate). Replace in reverse. Start car and give brakes a few pumps and top off reservoir.
Clean around the old brake lines carefully before removing them to prevent any gunk or debris from getting into the brake line connections.
Remove the brake fluid reservoir cap, cover it with some plastic wrap and replace the cap. This prevents too much fluid from leaking out when changing the brake hoses.
Take the tire off of the car and loosen the brake lines at each end. Plug the brake line at the fender to prevent too much fluid leakage. Save the washers and reuse them after removing the old brake line.
Line up the new brake line hex nut with the bracket and hand tighten it before putting the metal clips back on. Tighten with a wrench after the clips are in place.
Make sure to torque the brake lines to the manufacturers' specifications for the brakes to work properly.
Repeat the process for each tire and brake line on your car.
Bleed the brakes as necessary after replacing the brake lines and make sure you have plenty of brake fluid in your reservoir.
Loosen tire lug nuts. Jack up the car and remove lug nuts and tire. Remove two bolts holding the caliper in place. Remove the the two bolts holding pads in place. Hang caliper with a wire from wheel so brake line is not stressed. Mount new calipers in correctly and tigthen pad bolts. Put caliper on and tighten caliper bolts. Replace tire and lugs nuts. Jack car down and tigheten lug nuts.
jack and support vehicle remove tire and hub.some models have a slot on the back side to loosen or tighten the brake shoes you need to pry up on it to loosen remove hub then remove brake shoes . now your ready to remove the wheel cylinder first remove the brake line on the back side you should see a bolt or nut on the back side remove it you should be able to remove the wheel cylinder this is a little vauge because you didnt give a year or model
Remove the tire, and the rotor pulls straight off like the tire. Unless you have disk brakes. In that case, feel the back of the caliper "its whats holding the rotor on" you will feel 2 bolts. Remove them. The caliper slides off sideways. Then just slip the rotor off. The caliper will just dangle there until your ready for it. You do not need to remove the brake lines.
You "do not" need a strut spring compressor to change the struts on a 1998 ford escort.
Place the front of the car on jack stands, and remove the front tires.
Disconnect and remove the 2 bolts (at the bottom of the strut) that attach the strut to the knuckle (you may need air impact to break them free).
Remove the brake lines from the line retainer on the strut: If you open the brake lines you will need brake fluid, and need to bleed the brake system (to avoid opening the brake system, cut the line retainer from the old strut).
Inside the hood remove the circular cap that covers the top retaining nut on the strut. Remove the top retaining nut, then remove the strut.
Install new struts in reverse. To align the new strut to the knuckle, use a screwdriver to start the aligment, then insert the retaining bolts. If you cut the brake line retainers from the old struts, use plastic zip ties to attach the brake lines to the new struts.