Question about 2002 Chevrolet Cavalier Coupe

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Steering tilt wheel 2 pins fell out of joint what types of grease can I use on them before I reinstall them? can it be effected by shocks struts??

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: steering colomn real loose

I had a 1992 chevy van There are 3 or 4 small bolts way down in the steering column you have to remove the steering wheel and blinker assembly with a long extesion and racket tighten all the bolts. You need to do it soon if you have the same problem or the steering wheel will come off if the bolts come all the way out

Posted on Mar 25, 2009

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SOURCE: steering column wobbles at tilt joint

Yes

Posted on May 22, 2009

Mickgiever
  • 146 Answers

SOURCE: chevrolet 1989 silverado tilt wheel steering

The mechanism may just be worn out.Best solution I have, get another steering column.

Posted on Dec 13, 2009

  • 1374 Answers

SOURCE: I have a 1981 Corvette with tilt steering wheel.

Get the shop manual ( Hemmings puts out a good version of it), go to the steering and suspension section, (pack a lunch lol )and do exactly what it says to do reguarding replacing the steering column until you find the loose bolt. Good luck

Posted on Mar 09, 2010

  • 409 Answers

SOURCE: tilt steering is wobbly (loose); is there a type

The problem is not a u-joint. The trouble is two torx headed bolts in the steering column. Unfortunatly in order to tighten them up you have to remove the steering wheel, lock plate, and turn signal switch. Once all this is out of the way you can reach down thru the holes in the column and tighten these bolts. This is a common problem with GM vehicles in the 80s. The fix will require a star head socket, along with a steering wheel puller, and lock plate depresser.

Posted on Mar 14, 2010

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2 Answers

2006 CHEVY COBALT FRONT END NOISE


The top of the strut mount was not installed properly.

Jan 09, 2014 | 2006 Chevrolet Cobalt

1 Answer

Steering not responding well


Automobiles: 2006-2007 Ford Five Hundred 2WD & AWD, Montego

If the steering is getting a little hard to turn at low speeds, this would indicate a loss of Power Steering, and the steering is reverting to "Non-Power" steering, just like the days of the Ford Model T or Model A. Loss of power steering is usually caused by low level of PSF (Power Steering Fluid).
So first on my checklist would be checking the PSF level in the reservoir.
Also bleed (air) from PS (Power Steering) pump.

The Ford Five Hundred has front MacPherson struts, so check these for leakage (of the dampening fluid in the strut cylinder), or breakage of their coil springs.
These springs can actually weaken over time, but this is impossible to see - you must "feel" it by bouncing the strut up & down - preferably with your hands on the top of the strut tower in the engine compartment (rather than on the exterior finish).
If the MacPherson struts have weak/broken springs, these components are not separately serviceable, and the strut would have to be replaced as a unit (and preferably both left/right to maintain smooth/even ride).

The Five Hundred also has rear shock absorbers with springs - check for leaks/breakage/weakness here too.

Steering losing responsiveness/wander - checklist
Priority Action Part Type Cause
1 Inspect Rack & Pinion - Center Wear From Internal Fluid Leaking Around The Rack Piston.
2 Inspect Steering Stabilizer Bracket - Loose or Broken Steering Stabilizer Bracket.
3 Inspect Front Lower Control Arm - Front Lower Control Arm loose/missing bolt(s)
4 Inspect Front Lower Ball Joints - Front Lower Ball Joint(s) Worn/Loose
5 Inspect Front Upper Ball Joints -Front Upper Ball Joint(s) Worn/Loose
6 Inspect Tire Pressure - Tire Pressure should be 35 PSI for the Five Hundred and Montego's P225/55R18 OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) tires.

Harsh ride - checklist

1 Inspect Rear Shock/Strut - Shocks/Strut failing/leaking.
2 Inspect Front Shock/Strut - Shocks/Strut failing/leaking.
3 Inspect Coil Spring - Incorrect Coil Spring Selection or Installation.
4 Inspect Coil Spring - Coil Spring broken.

Dec 05, 2011 | 2006 Ford Five Hundred

1 Answer

Noise from front passenger wheel when turning steering wheel even in parked


They didnt put grease fittings on tie rod ends and ball joints need to try to spray some lube under the rubber boot of these and also up where the top of spring is if it has a shock strut on it might need to be pulled apart and lubed really good or one of htese parts replaced.....

Oct 03, 2010 | 1995 Mercury Cougar

1 Answer

I have a noise coming from the left side front wheel are. It is a rattle - took it to a local Toyota dealership who said it was the steering RAC well that was a $1000 mistake because the noise did not...


1) Take car to non dealer shops willing to give FREE opinion

2) Not likely you have a shock in Driver Front wheel, more likely a strut. Not likely strut needs to be replaced, but strut has a STRUT MOUNT (3 bolts of which can be seen when opening your hood) below this it is connected to STRUT BEARING which below it connects to UPPER SEAT OF STRUT or SPRING INSULATOR, that if loose will rattle. Usually, shops will not tighten, because to tighten is same labor as replace the parts. (Since you already dropped $1000 on ToyotaDealer, ask them to tighten FOR FREE since rattle is still there.)

3) There is a part called a "link," connects strut to stablizer bar, that if bushings are bad will rattle.
4) If stabilizer bar bushing(s) bad, will rattle early on but eventually clunking
5) Bad ball joint or tie rod can rattle as well

Never permit any shop to do expensive work on your car w/o first getting a second opinion somewhere else first. Do not tell second shop that you are there for a second opinion.

Shaking steering wheel at highway speed, no braking
1) Bad tire in front, bad tires in front, verify inflation of tires
2) Wheel alignment may be out
3) Front suspension parts (mentioned several above)

Highway speed to suddenly braking shakes steering wheel
1) Front brake rotors need to be inspected for warping
2) Test calipers on empty road at 40 mph, going straight on very LEVEL ROAD, hit brake pedal SOMEWHAT hard while barely touching steering wheel. If car jerks to one side, instead of braking straight on, you may have a caliper, ABS, or brake fluid pressure regulator off.
3) If brake rotors are warped, may as well replace front brake pads at same moment. Use ceramic.
4) When you drive on VERY LEVEL road on highway, steering wheel must be centered, let go lightly of steering wheel. Did car stay in middle of lane? No? Get a 4-wheel alignment.

Sep 13, 2010 | 2007 Toyota Camry

1 Answer

When I turn the steering wheel there is a popping sound when I'm just about as far to the left and sometimes to the right. I've been under there with someone turning the wheel a few times and I can't for...


It is either a rusty u-joint,or the strut/shock has a rubber or plastic piece the spring slides on when wheels are turned and when this keeps gunked up from road grime and rust the plastic or rubber fails to turn easy and then all the sudden breaks free when wheels are turned and the pop you hear is the strut spring snapping back,while it is annoying it won't hurt anything,but to fix it correctly you need to drop the strut and clean the upper plate and apply a good waterproof grease.

Jun 02, 2010 | 2000 Jeep Cherokee

1 Answer

Replacing front struts


Okay....here is the steps first....and then the directions on how to use the tools:

  1. Raise and properly support the vehicle.
  2. Remove the front wheel.
  3. Detach the shock absorber lower mount by removing the two bolts.
  4. Remove the retainer nut, retainer, cushion and shock absorber.
  5. Detach the cushion retainer from the shock absorber.
  6. Compress the coil spring with a commercially available spring compressor.
  7. Detach the stabilizer bar.
  8. Support the upper suspension arm and steering knuckle securely.
  9. Remove the cotter pin.
  10. Loosen and remove the nut.
  11. Using a ball joint removal tool, detach the lower ball joint from the lower control arm.
  12. Loosen the suspension arm set bolt.
  13. Remove the suspension arm set bolt nut.
  14. Remove the nut from the strut bar front set bolt.
  15. Pull out both set bolts.
  16. Remove the lower suspension arm and coil spring. To install:
  17. Installation is the reverse of removal. Note the following torque specifications:
    1. Strut bar front set bolt: 221 ft. lbs. (300 Nm)
    2. Lower suspension arm set bolt: 148 ft. lbs. (200 Nm)
    3. Lower ball joint nut: 80 ft. lbs. (110 Nm)
    4. Lug nuts: 83 ft. lbs. (110 Nm).

May 13, 2009 | 1998 Toyota Tacoma

1 Answer

Replacing front wheel bearing


  1. Loosen the wheel nuts and the center axle nut.
  2. Raise the vehicle and safely support it.
  3. Remove the wheel. Remove the ABS speed sensor if so equipped.
  4. Unclamp the brake hose from the shock absorber, but do not disconnect the line.
  5. Remove the brake caliper and hang it out of the way on a piece of stiff wire. Do not disconnect the brake line; do not allow the caliper to hang by the hose.
  6. Remove the brake disc.
  7. Place a dial indicator near the center of the axle hub, and check the backlash in the bearing shaft direction. Maximum is 0.0020 inch (0.05mm). If the backlash exceeds the maximum, replace the bearing.
    1. Usiung a dial; indicator, check the deviation at the surface of the axle hub outside the hub bolt. Maximum is 0.0028 inch (0.07mm). If the deviation exceeds the maximum, replace the axle hub.
    2. Install the disc and caliper. Tighten to 65 ft. lbs. (88 Nm).
  8. Remove the cotter pin and install the wheel. Lower the vehicle to the ground.
  9. Remove the lock nut cap. While depressing the brake pedal, remove the center axle nut.
  10. Raise and support the vehicle again and remove the wheel, caliper and disc.
  11. Loosen the 2 nuts on the lower side of the shock absorber. Do not remove the 2 nuts and bolts.
  12. Remove the cotter pin and nut from the tie rod end.
  13. Remove the tie rod end from the knuckle using a joint separator or equivalent.
  14. Remove the bolt and 2 nuts holding the bottom of the ball joint to the control arm and separate the arm from the knuckle.
  15. Remove the 2 nuts from the steering knuckle. Place a protective cover or shield over the CV boot on the driveshaft.
  16. Using a plastic mallet, tap the driveshaft free of the hub assembly.
  17. Remove the bolts and remove the axle hub assembly.
    1. Clamp the knuckle in a vise with protected jaws.
    2. Remove the dust deflector. Loosen the nut holding the ball joint to the knuckle. Use a ball joint separator tool or equivalent to loosen and remove the joint
    3. Use a slide hammer/extractor to remove the outer oil seal.
    4. Remove the snapring.
    5. Using a hub puller and pilot tools or equivalents, pull the axle hub from the knuckle.
    6. Remove the brake splash shield (3 bolts).
    7. Use a split plate bearing remover, puller pilot and a shop press, remove the inner bearing race from the hub.
    8. Remove the inner oil seal with the same tools used to remove the outer seal.

    To install:
    1. Place the inner race in the bearing. Support the knuckle and use an axle hub remover with a plastic mallet to drive out the bearing.
    2. Clean and inspect all parts but do not wash or clean the wheel bearing; it cannot be repacked. If the bearing is damaged or noisy, it must be replaced.
    3. Press a new bearing race into the steering knuckle using a bearing driver of the correct size.
    4. Place a new bearing inner race on the hub bearing.
    5. Insert the side lip of a new oil seal into the seal installer and drive the oil seal into the steering knuckle.
    6. Apply multi-purpose grease to the oil seal lip.
    7. Apply sealer to the brake splash shield and install the shield.
    8. Use a hub installer to press the hub into the steering knuckle.
    9. Install a new snapring into the hub.
    10. Using a seal installer of the correct size, install a new outer oil seal into the steering knuckle.
    11. Apply multi-purpose grease to the seal surfaces which will contact the driveshaft.
    12. Support the knuckle and drive in a new dust deflector.
    13. Install the ball joint into the knuckle and tighten the nut to 105 ft. lbs. (142). Install NEW cotter pin.
    14. Temporarily install the hub assembly to the lower control arm and fit the driveaxle into the hub.
    15. Install the knuckle to strut bolts, then attach the tie rod end to the knuckle.
    16. Tighten the strut bracket nuts to 203 ft. lbs. (275 Nm) and tighten the tie rod end nut to 36 ft. lbs. (49 Nm). Install the NEW cotter pin.
    17. Connect the ball joint to the lower control arm and tighten the nuts to 105 ft. lbs. (142 Nm).
    18. Install the brake disc.
    19. Attach the brake caliper to the knuckle and tighten the bolts to 65 ft. lbs. (88 Nm).
    20. Install the center nut and washer on the drive axle.
    21. Install the ABS speed sensor if so equipped. Install the wheel
    22. Lower the car to the ground.
    23. Tighten the wheel nuts to 76 ft. lbs. (103 Nm). Tighten the hub nut while depressing the brake pedal to 137 ft. lbs. (186 Nm) on 1988-91 models and 152 ft. lbs. (206 Nm) on 1992-97 models. Install the cap and cotter pin.
    24. Remove the protective cover from the CV boot. Check front wheel alignment

Apr 25, 2009 | 1990 Toyota Corolla

4 Answers

Strus or shocks in the front end of the magnum?


According to the replacement parts guide, they are struts and I checked for all wheel drive and 2 wheel drive and all are showing struts.

Apr 04, 2009 | 2005 Dodge Magnum

1 Answer

I need step by step instructions to replace front struts.


1.Turn ignition to OFF position to place steering column in unlocked position.
2.Remove hub nut
3.Loosen, but do not remove, three top mount-to-shock tower
4.Raise vehicle on a hoist.
5.Remove tire and wheel assembly
6.Move brake caliper and wire out of the way
7.Remove brake rotor
8.Remove cotter pin from tie rod end stud and remove slotted nut.
Discard cotter pin and nut
9.remove tie rod from knuckle
10.Remove stabilizer bar link nut, and remove link from strut
11.Remove and discard lower arm-to-steering knuckle pinch bolt and nut. (A drift punch may be used to remove bolt.) Using a screwdriver, slightly spread knuckle-to-lower arm pinch joint and remove lower arm from steering knuckle.
12.Press halfshaft from hub
13.Remove shock absorber strut-to-steering knuckle pinch bolt. Using a large screwdriver, slightly spread knuckle-to-strut pinch joint, if required, for removal
14.Remove steering knuckle and hub assembly from shock absorber strut
15.Remove three top mount-to-shock tower nuts and remove strut and spring assembly from vehicle
16.Compress spring with Spring Compressor
17.Place 10mm box-end wrench on top of shock strut shaft and hold while removing top shaft retaining nut with a 21mm 6-point crow foot wrench and ratchet
18.Loosen Spring Compressor , then remove top mount bracket assembly, bearing plate assembly and spring.
INSTALLATION
1.Place a 10mm box-end wrench on top of shock strut shaft and hold while tightening top shaft retaining nut with a 21mm 6-point crow foot wrench and ratchet to 53-72 Nm (40-53 lb-ft).
2.Install strut and spring assembly and three top mount-to-shock tower nuts
3.Install steering knuckle and hub assembly to shock absorber strut.
4.Install a new shock absorber strut-to-steering knuckle pinch bolt. Tighten to 98-132 Nm (73-97 lb-ft).
5.Install halfshaft into hub
6.Install lower arm to steering knuckle ensuring that ball stud groove is properly positioned and boot seal is not damaged. Install a new pinch bolt and nut. Tighten to 53-72 Nm (40-53 lb-ft).
7.Install stabilizer bar link to strut and install a new stabilizer bar link nut. Tighten to 77-103 Nm (57-75 lb-ft).
8.Install tie rod end onto knuckle.
9.Install a new tie rod end slotted nut. Tighten to 31-47Nm (23-34 lb-ft).
10.Install a new slotted nut retaining cotter pin.
11.Install brake rotor
12.Install brake caliper
13.Install tire and wheel assembly
14.Tighten three top mount-to-shock tower nuts to 30-40Nm (23-29 lb-ft).
15.Lower vehicle and tighten hub nut to 230-275 Nm (170-202 lb-ft)
16.Depress brake pedal several times prior to moving vehicle.

Hope this helps. Good luck !

Mar 14, 2009 | 1992 Ford Taurus

1 Answer

Stiff steering


hi you may have two problems.the banging noise can be either struts/shocks or ball joints.as for stiff steering can be either power steering. or ball joints.bad ball joints can make a banging moise and make it stiff when turnning the wheels.

Jan 31, 2009 | 2001 Hyundai Santa Fe

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