Question about 1999 Dodge Durango
For what seems like forever now my dodge durangos gadges have been going in and out. The truck keeps running fine, but the whole dash just shuts down and the abs, fuel, gadges lights come on. Then it seemed that it was correcting itself just to have it out of the blue not to run at all. It cranks but wont start. But if I step on the fuel peddel it will start, and it will stay running as long as my foot is on the peddel. once I remove my foot it dies. I removes the battery cables and put them back on and it ran for a cpl hours but then went back to not wanting to run again. is any of this connected? Can it be connected? Help? Please?
Any codes? You may have a bad dash ground or need to change the complete dash.
Posted on Apr 09, 2017
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I had the same problem it was the idle air control valve, I purchased another but problem remained, so clean old one with carb cleaner and steel wool put back on and worked great again.
Posted on Jun 30, 2010
could be Fuel Injectors, are bad ?
all you need is # 1 Fuel Injector, to go out that will not get Fire, and Fuel Mixture to Spark Plug.
Posted on Jun 03, 2009
If you backup lights are not working as well, I would say check the fuse for the backup lights, if the fuse is good, see if you are getting power to that fuse. We had this problem and after weeks of searching and changing sensors, we found the backup light fuse was good, but not getting power. Ran a wire from that fuse to the cig. lighter fuse and all woprksf great.
Posted on Jul 10, 2009
Charge your battery to full charge, next if you have a test light hook up the negative cable to the battery then with the test light touch one end to the positive battery cable and one to the positive post, is the light on? if yes is it bright? if yes Check your glove box and remove the glove box light check the light again, is it still bright? then check the rear cargo lamp and see if it's on if not, remove the bulb anyway and check the light one more time. if the light is still bright disconnect the light from the positive cable and the battery and then disconnect the positive wire to the alternator once it is disconnected do the light test again. Hook light to post and to the positive cable, is the light still bright? if no It's the alternator diode trio regulator Bridge, if it's still bright hook up the alternator wire again and then with the hood up and the hood light disconnected or the bulb pulled, locate the fuse panel and remove one fuse at a time, while you watch the light be sure to have the bulb out of the dome light so it does not give you a false reading. Now pull one fuse at a time if the light goes out thats where you have a problem on that circuit, on the fuse panel lid it will have it marked as what it is you can let me know what circuit it is and I can tell you how to check that circuit or if you prefer you can go to http://www.alldatadiy.com and buy a subscription for your car and it will have all the test and wiring information you want.
If you find the alternator is the culprit it could even be the brushes have fallen out one side or the other and is shorting if the battery is fully charged take it to auto zone and they can test the alternator output, if it does not put out 13.5 to 14.5 volts and 60 or 90 amps and 900 RPMS you know the alternator is bad just buy a replacement because rebuilding your alternator would cost as much buying a new or rebuilt alternator that has had everything done to it.
Now for the check engine light while your at auto zone you can have them pull the codes for your computer and that will help give you an ideal if the two problems are related. If the battery voltage drops below 10.5 volts the check engine light will come on because the computer is detecting low voltage if you run it on low voltage for very long you may burn out the computer. Hope this helps and thanks for using fix-ya
Posted on Jan 17, 2010
Testimonial: "Thanks for taking the time and all the great advise. I changed the alt. and have had no problems thus far. "
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