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Hi chance are the mechanism inside door jamming. Short of forcing off the inner panel in order to clean lubricate etc I find the best way to get this open is to get someone to keep activating your central locking open and shut while you simply keep trying the door handle at the same time and this can some times just catch the latch in just the right position to get the door open ( you dont need to forcefully be pulling on the handle as the latch will either simply click over on the fine spring latch mechanism or not force is not going to help).
Once and if you manage to get door open take off the inner door card panel and oil lubricate mechanism. rather than then shut door simply use a screw driver on latch to test and worth then working back and forth. If still jamming replace latch.
I need a bit more info to ptovife tpoyu witht he correct souiltion, but I will try to offer up a generic answer. The lock actuator is nothoing moree than a motor. If it is jammed and not moving at all, it probably is frozen and needs replacing. However, many times I've torn apart doors expecting to replace a bad actuator and have found a linkage rods jammed into door insualtion, or they have became deformed over the years and have worked their way into the inner door panel insulation padding. Without more info (front door, back door, rear hatch door,symptoms, thats all i can offer.
Hold the hatch hard closed into its frame whilst pulling on the release handle. The mechanism on most cars consists a grab/release on the door and a simple metal hop at the bottom of the frame. Over time the hoop can become loose and move slightly inwards each time the door is shut. The door seal rubbers push back on the door surround putting a lot of tension against the grab/release mechanism preventing it from releasing. By pressing on the door and compressing the rubber surround you will take the pressure off the release mechanism and allow it to open when you pull on the handle.
Once the door hatch is open, loosen the mounting bolts to the metal hoop and move it out about 10mm. Tighten the mounting bolts. Shut the door gently as a trial close and check for security of fit. If very slack, ease the hoop inwards a couple of millimetres. When happy, tighten the mounting bolts securely. draw around the hoop mount with indelible ink so if it moves in future you have early visual warning and can remount it easily
I'm sorry, can't contact with your chat request because I having other question open; I suggest check this proceduro for GM Camaro/Firebird 1993-1998 Repair Guide...
Window Regulator and Regulator Motor
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION (see
Figures 1 and 2)
Remove the door trim panel and inner panel water deflector.
Raise the window to half-up position and hold in place by
inserting a rubber wedge door stops at the front and rear of the window
between window and inner panel.
Remove the rear guide channel and inner panel cam channel.
Punch out the center pins of the regulator rivets; then
drill out the rivets using a
in. (6mm) bit.
Move the regulator rearward and disconnect wire harness from the
motor (if equipped). Disengage the roller on the regulator lift arm from
glass sash channel.
Remove the regulator through the rear access hole.
Fig. 1: Front door window regulator mounting
If electric motor removal from the regulator is required, the
sector gear must be locked in position. The regulator lift arm is under
tension from the counterbalance spring and could cause personal injury
if the sector gear is not locked in position.
Drill a hole through the regulator sector gear and backplate and
install a bolt and nut to lock the sector gear in position.
in. (5mm) bit, drill out the motor attaching rivets and
remove the motor from the regulator.
Fig. 2: Locking the sector gear on the window regulator motor
To install the motor to the regulator. Use a rivet tool,
J-29022 or equivalent, and install
in. (5mm) rivets or
in. (5mm) nuts and bolts. Remove the bolt and nut used
to secure the sector gear in position.
Place the regulator through the rear access hole into the door
inner panel. If the electric regulator is being installed, engage the
wire connector to motor prior to installing the regulator to the inner
Locate the lift arm roller into the glass sash channel.
Using rivet tool J-29022 or equivalent, rivet the
regulator to the inner panel of the door using
in. (13mm) aluminum peel type rivets (part No. 9436175
or equivalent). If the rivet tool is not available, use the following
nut and bolt method:
Install U-clips on the regulator at the attaching locations. Be
sure to install the clips with clinch nuts on the outboard side of the
Locate the regulator in the door inner panel. If the electric
regulator is being installed, connect the wire connector to the
Locate the lift arm roller in the glass sash channel.
Align the regulator with clinch nuts to holes in the inner panel.
Attach the regulator (and motor) to the door inner
in. screws (part No. 9419723 or equivalent) into
in. (6mm) nuts with integral washers. Tighten the
screw to 90-125 inch lbs. (10-14 Nm) torque.
Install the inner panel cam channel and rear guide channel.
Remove the rubber wedge door stops at the front and rear of the
window between window and inner panel.
Install the inner panel water deflector and the door trim panel.
If I understand you correctly and I think I do, the door catch or sometimes called "door check"can break. When this happens the catch rod comes out of position and wedges against the door jam. The door catch will have to be replaced. The door panel will have to come off to replace it, so while your in there you can reattach the inner door handle cable back into place to fix your inoperative inner door handle concern. -hope this helps.
Often times the mounting tabs from the regulator to the glass may loosen and start tilting which causes the jam. Also if you are in the habit of closing the door without the window being in the fully open, or the fully closed position this can cause the forward guide to warp or break loose from its position. Either way the door panel must be removed. If you remove the lock knob, then, look around the lower edge, there should be 3-4 screws to remove. In the armrest there may also be 1-2 phillips head screws. The inner cap for the mirror has to be popped off or unscrewed. Then at the far outer bottom(furthest from the hinge) pry out slighty and see if you have push in pins with many fin type ribs or if the door panel is slotted to lift straight up and off. I'm sure you are going to fid that the two window mounts have come loose or possibly you may have to search the door bottom insid with a small flashlight to retrieve the nuts that hold those two mounts on. Center the window so it sits evenly against the rear guide, and lock down the two mounts. If you find that the material that is lining the guide has fallen down a few inches, try some contact cement between the metal guide tray and the liner. Be "very" careful not to get any on the sliding suface side. Thanks, Dana
The lock? As in security lock or the lock onto the striker bolt? If your thinkg of the striker bolt lock, take a screw driver and put pressure as if you were pulling the door open and lift the handle at the same time. It will open slightly then just open it completely with your hand. Lube it up and shut the door. Shouldn't have any problems for a while if ever. Just lube up now and then.