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How to replace power window motor in 2004 endeavor rear driver side.

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  • 435 Answers

Get the assembly kit open up ur door from inside fit in the assembly that includes motor gear and regulator assembly. Hope this helps

Posted on Jul 10, 2013

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6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

keemo68
  • 1263 Answers

SOURCE: 2004 Mitsubishi Galant window probem

your going to have to remove the door panel. remove the screws and you will iencounter plastic pieces call christmas trees these are a pain but the sell a tool for these at an auto parts store for about 10 bucks. disconnect the plug if you have power windows, if you have manual windows there is a clip that holds the handle on the shaft. use a small screwdriver to remove this. now you can remove the panel awy from the door. this will allow access to the window regulater. you said it sounded like something is loose. check to see if the control arm is disconnected from the lower part of the window. hope this helps

Posted on Sep 01, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: repalce front driver power window motor - 1993 cutlass ciera

Disconnect the battery negative cable, carefully remove the door panel, make sure you remove all the visible hold down screws holding the arm rest and other things in place, be careful and observant, don't force anything. If you don't have the standard door panel removal tools, use a stiff putty knife or a wide screwdriver to remove the door panel, you will have to get the power window control switch and the lock control rods out of the way, take notes so you know how they go back together, Remove the plastic weather protection shield out of the way, try not to tear it because you will want to replace it using a good contact adhesive. Getting the motor and the lift mechanism out is the biggest challenge, There are two big rivets holding the motor and regulator assembly to the door, there are two more rivets closer to the rear of the door that holds the track and window guide in place. the rivets are difficult to drill out because it's not easy to center punch them. I used my 4 inch grinder to remove the rivet heads, be careful not to injure yourself or grind through the door metal. knock the rivets out. Remove the power supply wire from the motor. Use a 10 MM socket to untighten the two cap screws that hold the lift bracket to the bottom glass channel. Don't take the cap screws all the way out. Use a piece of wire to hold the window in the closed position. Loop the wire over one of the hold down cap screws and fasten the other end through one of the convenient holes near the top of the door. Now comes the good part. the motor and lift mechanism is all in one near rigid piece. The seat belt anchor blocks the door panel opening that would make it relatively easy to remove. Don't give up, the unit will come out with some thoughtful manipulation, the V shaped track guide will tolerate a small amount of flexing, don't overdo it. I finally got the assembly out by moving it as far to the back of the the door cavity as possible, use the angles of the assembly to your advantage to free it from the door. Once free, use a black marker to ensure you align your new motor in the correct postition. If you are replacing a complete assembly that looks the same a the part you removed, install by reversing the above directions. If you are replacing only the motor, drill out the two rivets that hold the motor to the lift assembly. this will be asy to do. fit your new motor in the exact same position, referring to the previous marks you made. If you are reusing the old lift mechanism, you should pull the perforated tape out of the guide, clean, inspect it, the guide and the tape, relubricate it, I used white grease, there is probably a better grease available. The motor assembly I received from an internet supplier came with rivets and machine screws to install the assembly, I used 1/2 quarter twenty nuts and bolts to replace the big rivets, I don't have a big enough rivet gun. If you go the quarter twenty way, use thread lock, install with bolt heads on the inside the door and flat washers and nuts to the car interior. Be observant, I left the plastic bracket that attaches the drive tape to the window bottom in an unsecure place, one of my dogs used it as a chew toy,so it was off to the junkyard one more time. Be sure to secure the tape properly at both ends. If it worn or frayed, several suppliers including rockauto supply them at reasonable cost. good luck.

Posted on Oct 10, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee driver side power windows do not work

I had the same problem with now power to windows, mirrors and seat. The common soulution is the orange and or black wire in the boot have broken between the door and post.

Posted on Dec 07, 2008

ga_drifter
  • 36 Answers

SOURCE: 2004 chrysler sebring.The driver side rear door electric window

you have a bad window regulator assembly

Posted on Jan 30, 2009

shop510
  • 90 Answers

SOURCE: replace driver side power window motor

Once you have removed the inner door panel you unbolt the motor and regulator (They should come togther) and install.

Posted on Sep 28, 2009

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1 Answer

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possibly switch or broken wire between door and pillar. frequent closing and opening of door causes wire/s to break or might be a defective power window motor.

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You don't mention power supply and switches. I hope you checked these first on both d side doors.

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The drive mechanism is worn out or broken. Some are easy to replace, some are not. They may come as an assembly meaning you have to buy the whole drive, motor and all. Panels can be complicated to remove, and some drilling may be required to remove the old drive assembly.

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Check Fuse

Check Switches

Check Motor

Check Regulator


In that order

If you have Retained Accy Relay or
A Window Module,then you need
a repair shop to diagnose

Check means you need electrical
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may need a motor, or regulator replaced, and also lube the heck out of all the joints, also lube the track the window rides agnst...good luck

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1 Answer

2004 mitsubishi endeavor passenger rear window off track


Yea its actully quite simple, but expensive. The regulator needs to be replaced. I have already replaced my right rear, but I think my driver side is going out also, sounds like it anyway.
Thank God I bought a third party warrnty and they took care of everything. Zurich is the name of the company. I purchased the one with no deductible. Anyway I wish I had a better solution-but its awful hard to do your self.
Apache105

Sep 29, 2008 | 2004 Mitsubishi Endeavor

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