Question about 2004 Saab 9-3

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2004 Saab 9-3 2.0 turbo

My Saab's turbo will not kick in, the gauge is only halfway, until i hit about thirty mph. It does this when ever it is really hot out. What should i do?

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  • 9 Answers

Waste gate valve may be. Stuck try dump valve to stop turbo lag

Posted on Aug 01, 2013

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 18 Answers

SOURCE: saab turbo 9-3 need computer trouble code

P1300 is random misfiring. I suggest replacing your DI cassette with a known good unit or a replacement unit. Give more info on your vehicle. Any symptoms or running rough?
Justin
Strictly Saab
Melbourne, FL

Posted on Sep 16, 2008

  • 60 Answers

SOURCE: I need instructions for replacing the turbo on a Saab 1999 9-5 4 cyl turbo

Hi, I have done this and it is not too bad, but will take you about 4 hours if you are good, and longer if you have not done much mechanics.

The trick is to find a reasonably priced turbo, check ebay. There is a dude on there that just does rebuilt turbos. Very good, got mine for $

I have been reading up on turbo replacement procedure and I have found this list: First, there are a couple of questions that I have about the list:

2 air openings, pretty easy to figure out
2 exhaust openings, pretty easy to figure out
3 round openings in the center, all banjo bolts?
1 round / two bolt opening in the center.
1 Hose fitting off of the waste-gate
1 Hose fitting off of the air side of the turbo.

STEP 1 Open the expansion tank cap to release the system pressure.
STEP 2 Raise the car & Remove the lower front cover under the car
STEP 3 Drain off the coolant & Remove the turbo brackets
STEP 4 Loosen the return fitting and the pipe from the turbo to the block
STEP 5 Loosen the oil pipe between the filter adapter and the turbo
STEP 6 Lower the car to the floor & Remove the bypass valve & Unplug the connector from the control valve
STEP 7 Disconnect the mass air flow sensor connector & Loosen the hoses to the turbo
STEP 8 Remove the crankcase banjo bolt from the intake manifold and unscrew the bolt from the cam cover
STEP 9 Move the pipe and wiring aside & Remove the engine lifting eye
STEP 10 Remove the mass air flow sensor and air hose
STEP 11 Remove the exhaust manifold heat shield by removing the nut and two clips from underneath
STEP 12 Undo the intake manifold clamp at the turbo & remove the intake
STEP 13 Disconnect the hose clip on the hose between the intercooler & turbo & plug it to keep something from falling in it
STEP 14 Loosen the front exhaust system from the turbo & lower the front exhaust system away from the turbo (DO NOT BEND -THE FLEX HOSE)
STEP 15 Remove the oil pipe from the oil filtermag-glass_10x10.gif adapter & grab the copper washers
STEP 16 Loosen the coolant pipe by the turbo & grab the copper washers & loosen the coolant pipe bolt
STEP 17 Remove the coolant return pipe from the cylinder head & pressure sensor bracket. Once again, Grab the copper washers
STEP 18 Undo the coolant return pipe bolt by the turbo
STEP 19 Undo the nuts securing the turbo to the exhaust manifoldmag-glass_10x10.gif. (spray the nuts with WD40)
STEP 20 Install in Reverse


Just did this for the first time. Here are a few hints that may help others.

1) PB BLASTER is your friend. Remove the exhaust top front heat shield and hit exhaust nuts with PB Blaster as soon as you start the job, or night before.

2) Make sure that you have 12mm closed end wrench with AND without ratchet. Also a 1/2 size 12mm socket if you can find / make. These will help.

3) You don't have to remove the oil filtermag-glass_10x10.gif, but there one bolt that it would be nice for. I did not and did manage to get the job done.

4) Take you time. More of finding the right tool combination for each bolt.

5) Two banjo bolts on the turbo were really on there. Needed to use a mini-acetylene torch to eat up.

6) Have extracting sockets and bits ready just in case there are issues getting bolts / nuts off.

Turbo had quite a bit of end-play, but spun fine. Classic symptoms, blue smoke at start up and from time to time when driving. It was also making a bit of noise at idle.

jeffo2 ort11


Also, should get new copper washers. I did not have I have some micro leaks from time to time but nothing bad.

Posted on Jan 10, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Adjust headlights on a 2004 Saab 9-3

Check the fuse box under the hood on drivers side, it will be number 17 and a 10 amp. this vehicle has automatic headlight adustment when you crank the car. If the fuse is blown the lights will point down to keep from blinding oncoming traffic.
Hubert

Posted on Jan 22, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Saab 2004 9-3 Convertible

Had same problem, in the boot right hand side, behind the removable panel there is :
1 - a hydraulic reservoir which must be at correct level.
2 - a black box (stc) this controls the roof system,
switch ignition off then pull the 2 connectors off for 30sec then reconnect.
This worked and hope this resolves your problem

Posted on Apr 06, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: I have a Gearbox malfunction linited performance

9 time out of 10 it is either (1) computer glitch; (2) the input speed sensor; (3) a wiring short; or (4) neutral safety switch. If your tranny operates fine even with the message (the message may disappear after a few starts), that means the problem is most likely with one of the above, rather than the tranny itself. Your car generates error codes that a Saab deal with a Tech 2 Scanner can read. That will pinppoint the error source. Good luck.

Posted on Jul 12, 2010

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sucked to pay that much, but it fixed the problem.

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