Question about Cars & Trucks
My car is a 1997 nissan 1.6 DOHC with caburator
Pull number one spark plug, so you can find Top Dead Center (TDC) of compression stroke for number one cylinder. Put a socket on the crank pulley bolt, and turn clockwise with your finger over the spark plug hole. Keep turning until you feel pressure on your finger. Soon as you feel pressure build up, look at crank pulley, and keep turning until the zero degrees mark lines up on the pointer scale. Now you are at TDC of compression stroke for number one cylinder. If distributor is installed, check that rotor is pointing to number one spark plug tower. If not lined up, or if distributor is not yet installed, set distributor in place to have rotor pointing to number one spark plug tower on the distributor cap.
That's all. When engine is running and warmed up, check and set timing with a timing light.
Posted on Jul 11, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
These engines have a timing chain, not a belt. They also have nylon coated guides under the cover that wear. If you change the chain yourself, or have it done, check the guides as well.
Posted on Mar 26, 2009
You need to get the crankshaft into the number one cylinder top-dead-center compression (both valves closed) position. The crankshaft goes around twice as fast (twice as many times) as the camshaft and the camshaft turns the distributor. You need to turn the crank with a wrench. Loosen #1 spark plug, take the others out. Watch the timing marks on the front pulley. One time it will come up and not be on compression stroke. Another time you will hear air hiss out around the spark plug. This is the compression stroke. They alternate, compression - exhaust- compression - exhaust. Stop at 0 on the front pulley timing marks when it hisses. Now the rotor in the distributor needs to be pointing to number one spark plug wire. If the oil pump is driven by the bottom end of the distributor, most are, the drive needs to be aligned so they will mesh together. Now comes the tricky part, because of the shape of the distributor drive gears the distributor rotates as the gears mesh. Set the rotor where it needs to be, drop in into the hole and watch which way it turns and how much. Pull the distributor back up and adjust the rotor the opposite way that amount to compensate. Now drop it in again. Now it should be where you want it to be. The oil pump drive probably isn't meshed. Crank the engine around by hand while pressing down gently on the distributor. The distributor will drop the rest of the way in when the oil pump drive aligns with the distributor. Now crank the engine around again and verify that the rotor is in the right place when the crank comes up on TDC compression. If it isn't pull the distrib. up and adjust and repeat the steps to mesh the oil pump drive. Once you get it where you want it, put the hold down on, the cap on and try it out. If you can't turn it far enough to get the timing where it needs to be adjust the gear mesh again.
Posted on Jun 06, 2009
SOURCE: TIMING ON OVERHAULED ENGINE
if you overhauled the engine and replaced the timing chain & gears, as long as you installed them properly and have installed the ign wires in the right places, the distributor is "locked in place" and is non adjustable (unless you are me, but that's another story) Computer makes all timing changes.
Posted on Dec 13, 2008
SOURCE: '98 Nissan Sentra GA13 guzzles
I encountered a very similar problem before. Have your carburetor redone. I also spent a lot trying to fix that kind of issue before with the car I'm using (also with ga13ds). I overhauled the carburetor 2 times using repair kits but there are still the same issues and at one time things became even worse. Bring it to a mechanic who works with nissan (not necessarily in the service center) and/or is specializing in carburetors because there are a lot of things that may go wrong inside a carburetor. I brought mine to an expert in Evangelista Makati, Philippines ( well I guess your from the Philippines because I could not find ga13ds from other countries unless I'm wrong) and it only took about two hours without even buying parts, just some elbow grease, smashing, scratching, and some salvaged parts from other carbs- the whole process cost me Php1,800 plus travel expenses. Also, buy a good air filter and make sure that your air cleaner assembly is working properly, these kind o issues are caused by accumulated dirt in the system and it slowly destroys the carb. After having all the repairs done, invest in one aerosol can of carb cleaner and use it on your carb maybe about once a month (I do it that often) it keeps performance as close to optimum as possible and prolongs the carb so it will take a while before it needs to be overhauled again. The MPG however, may not be the same as before. Since it's an old engine and engines tend to consume more fuel proportional to its age (according to my mech engineering undergrad brother), the MPG may be more by a bit and it is also affected by the engine overhaul, because of a lot machining and making things larger by a bit, the engine will increase cc (I think) by an amount that will also affect your MPG.
There..I hope this helps..Good luck! I love these old carbureted engines, they're so simple to tinker with.
If you're from the Philippines, the man to look for is Mang Vising in Bgy. Bankal, Makati. Just near the INC church there in Evangelsita. Coming from EDSA, turn right just before you reach the INC church and just ask around.
Posted on Jan 16, 2011
DTC P0141 - O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1, Sensor 2) Here is the daignostic procedure for troubleshooting DTC P0141 (click over each image for zoom)... Hope this helps to solve it.
This code means that the heated circuit in the oxygen sensor on bank 1 decreases time needed to enter closed loop. As the O2 heater reaches operating temperature, the oxygen sensor responds by switching according to oxygen content of the exhaust surrounding it. The ECM tracks how long it takes for the oxygen sensor to begin switching. It the ECM determines (based on coolant temp) that too much time elapsed before the oxygen sensor began operating properly, it will set P0141. See also: P0135 (Bank 1, Sensor 1).
You will likely notice poor fuel economy the illumination of the Check Engine Light.
Causes: A code P0141 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:
open or short to ground in the wiring harness
O2 heater circuit wiring high resistance
O2 heater element resistance is high
Internal short or open in the heater element
Note: Typically a failed catalytic converter does not cause this code. You're more likely to see a P0420 code for a failed converter.
Replace oxygen sensor (cannot repair open or short that occurs internally to sensor)
Repair short or open or high resistance in wiring harness or harness connectors
Here is the daignostic procedure for troubleshooting DTC P0141 (click over each image for zoom)...
Hope this helps to solve it.
Posted on Sep 27, 2011
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