Question about Cars & Trucks
I took the bracket off by removing the two bottom bolts to position it on a wooden base. As I was priming water leaked from the gap so I assumed the bolts were not tight enough so I tightened them more but not too much. Pump stopped leaking all was fine one week later the bolts have pulled their mounts out of the pump body. Now is this due to me putting the mount on incorrectly or the bolts too tightly? I put the mount on the bolt head side not in the middle of the pump body / motor.I'm sure this was correct as I cannot see any pictures of it's position. Also the pressure was good (45psi) but once or twice it had'nt kicked on I had to do it manually does this mean the pressure tank needs air or do I have a fautly foot valve?
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
i know what bolt your talking about,you canreach it thru the wheel well with an extention!!!
but if your just removing the pump,some of the pullys have three holes in them too get too the pump bolts if not then you need a power steering pump pully remover auto zone loans them out!!!!
Posted on Feb 28, 2009
The bolt holding you up is on the bottom by the compressor, right? You Will have to have an inverted torx socket to remove the studs. Also there is a spacer behind the mount bracket, remember where it goes. You will have to pull the pully bolts and get it out of the way too. Some of those cars have plastic elbows going from the intake to the water pump, be carefull with it. Your motor may not have this but be ready to replace it if it does because it will most likley break. Good Luck.
Posted on May 10, 2009
Hi once you have all the bolts off for the mount raise the front of the motor up till you can remove the center part of the mount
I use a floor jack and a 2x4 across the oil pan then remove the studs for the motor mount bracket now remove the bracket and now you can get the water pump out
hope this helps
Posted on May 10, 2009
SOURCE: im replacing timing belt, accessory belts and water pump on my hyundai elantra gls 1997 sta wgn auto transmission. (1)Where is bolt to drain engine block coolant?(2)After removing front engine mountin
(1) No need to know if engine block coolant drain plug was available. Once the water pump was removed, all engine block coolant was drained. (2) After removing the three engine mounting bracket bolts, I also removed the mount bracket from the the body and made enough room to replace the timing belt easier.
Posted on May 20, 2009
The parts people at the dealership are usually glad to make you a copy of whatever you need.. Their pictures are the same as in some Mercury repair books.
Posted on Jul 25, 2009
Tips for a great answer:
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NISSAN STANZA WAGON - Manual Transmission
Q. Where is the starter on a 1986 nissan stanza station wagon and how do you get to it ?
Due to limited access to the starter, it is recommended that the transaxle be removed when servicing the starter.
1. Cold vehicle.
Remove 2 mounting bracket bolts, 10 & 12 mm (Figure 1).
Remove top starter motor bolt 14 mm with universal & long extensions.
Raise vehicle on hoist.
Remove front splash pans 10 mm.
Automatic transmission: Drain 2 qts out.
Remove rt-ft wheel 21 mm., & tie rod (Figure 3), axle cap, cotter pin, adj-nut & rubber washer.
Remove ball joint nuts 17 mm., left lower control arm 19mm. & swaybar bracket 14 mm. (Fig 2).
Remove axle nut 36mm (Figure 4), the front tube, catalytic converter heat insulators 10mm, ctr ex-tube 17 mm., and front tube from exhaust system (Figure 5).
Remove long bolt from ft engine mount (next to radiator), 17mm socket (Figure 6, Item A).
Remove tension rod mount 14 mm. Has adj-bracket with rubber insulators (Fig 6, Items B, C).
Remove right side drive shaft bolts that hold shaft to bracket mounted on engine (Fig7) 12mm.
CAUTION: Transaxle side seals are cut by spline teeth.
Install hoist type transmission jack and wooden block under the transmission/engine. Be certain the transmission is safely balanced on the hoist.
Remove 5 engine crossmember mounts (3 bolts, 2 nuts) 14mm.
Remove nut that attaches crossmember to engine mount.
Loosen stabilizer bar mounts to allow adequate clearance for crossmember to be removed.
Remove following brackets to allow starter assembly to pass through bottom:
tubular support bracket - engine to transaxle
angled support bracket - driveshaft bracket to engine mount
manifold collector stay - (bottom bolts)
Loosen top bolts, remove bracket above driveshaft-holding bracket 14mm.
NOTE: This bracket is slotted to allow it to slide out without completely removing the bolts.
Remove bottom starter motor mounting bolt.
Separate starter assembly from bellhousing, DC all cables/connectors, remove starter motor.
When installing starter, connect cable, install/torque starter bolts.
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