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Well the thing is, it's not a fuse issue. If the drivers side works but the passenger and rear windows do not you most likeley have a bad master window switch (drivers side front). I now that it sounds odd but the only common thing with the remaining windows that are not working is the ground source located in that main switch. You can check to see if there is a ground from that switch but this may be a litle confusing. If you are able to remove that main switch in the drivers door but leave it plugged in here is how you check for a ground. Get a test light and connect the "alligator" clip part of it to a hot (positive) wire or terminal. In the back of that plug stick the "pointy" end of the test light into different wires. The wires you will want to check is the green & red one, The blue and white one, The red and yellow one, the red and blue one, the blue and black one and the blue and red one. If none of those wires makes the light turn on it means you do not have the ground you need. You have constant power but want makes the windows go up and down in the switches is a ground. All the windows get power from the same place so that's why I say it's a grounding problem since the drivers window is working and Like I say the only common source is in that switch. I hope I didn't confuse you with this but this is the best way I can explain it to you at this point. If you have questions or need this more detailed with some pictures, email me at email@example.com and I will do my best to help. No there will not be a charge if you email me. I don't mind helping and I am an automobile electronics specialist and sometimes it's hard for me to put it in plain nontechnical terms. Please remind me of your problem and what we are working on if you do write. I hope I was able to help at least a litle bit as to your problem.
The headlight may have a bad filament.
Do you know what that fuse is for? It's got to be a short (broken wire touching metal) in that circuit. Is it for the windows?
For the windows: pull off the inner panel for access to the master switch on driver's door. Look for one hot wire going to the power window switch, with key on. If no power is found at switch, check the wires going into door-maybe broke or frayed. If you have power at the switch, it's likely a bad switch or bad ground for the window circuit, because I doubt if both window motors failed at the same time. Good luck, and find what's blowing that fuse. Where it goes.
Here's something to try. There should be a single black wire on the connector for the master window switch. this is the ground for all the windows. check for power by back probing that wire with the connector plugged into the switch and a window switch in either the up or down position. If you see 12 volts than the ground is bad. Use a jumper wire from that wire to a known good ground. If the windows start working than you will need to trace that wire to find the break. The most common would be in the harness in between the door and the body of the car.
If you don't see 12 volts with a switch in the up or down than remove both connectors from the switch. test continuity between the pin that the black wire goes to an any pin that the 8 wire connector plugs into. There should be continuity. If there isn't that the master switch is bad.
5wilson, looking at the electrical diagram , the driver's door switch can lock out the windows from opreating completely (I'm not quite sure about the drivers window, but the Driver's door switch is one common denominator. DON'T REPLACE IT JUST BECAUSE I HAVE MENTIONED IT, I AM GOING TO GIVE YOU OTHER PLACES WHICH SUPPLY POWER TO THE WINDOWS FROM ONE SPOT!
Power supplies and grounds: Remove the driver's door switch and the main power supply going into the switch is a TAN wire. This is a switched wire (meaning the windows won't operate withiot the ignition switch on) There is a junction block to the left of the bottom of the steering column (C8), it contains a 30 amp circuit breaker which has the tan wire going to it. Coming off of that same harness before it gets to the circuit breaker, is a window drop relay. (Are you sure you want to mess with this?) The window drop relay is in the driver's door. It has "roughly" 8- 10 wires going to it.There is a black wire also coming off of the switch which grounds to the body. As the harness passes through thee door and connects to the interior harness, the wire is black and tan out of the junction block.. You will need a good test light or digital volt/ohm meter.
I am making the assumption you know how to use a test light and a digital volt/ohm meter.
I hope I haven't made a confising mess for you. Electrical is best left to the pros..