Question about Cars & Trucks
My initial problem was jerking along with cutting off at idle speed. No check engine light came on. So I changed the crankshaft sensor and the plugs,wires,distributor,rotor button and pick up sensor.But truck was checked after each to see if that was the problem.No luck. Well after a few day the the truck has not jerked but the check engine light came on and gave codes for cylinder 1,3,5 misfire.We changed the ignition coil and the IAC sensor. It is not cutting off anymore now.It drives ok but still misfiring on 1,3,5.Mechanic was thinking fuel injectors. He took the ones from 2,4,6 and swapped with 1,3,5 and it didn't work. Still misfired on 1,3,5. So he said injectors are not the problem.Another mechanic suggested the wires might have been bad, so I changed the plugs and wires. Plugs set at .040, drove it 25 minutes and check engine light came right back on. Misfire cylinders 1,3,5. I'm stumped and broke. Anyone got any ideas? Will be greatly appreciated. 1998 Dodge Dakota v6 3.9.
What about checking for vacuum leaks or low compression or a leaking head gaskt
Posted on Jul 09, 2013
Testimonial: "Today he checked all those. The fuel pump was checked and it held at 50 the entire time.He said I didn't have any leaks and the compression was fine. I reset the codes and let truck cool. After I drive 15 to 20 minutes the check engine light comes back on. Same 1,3,5. I was thinking since it was 1,3,5 every time I may be losing compression on the drivers side. I'll have it checked again and let you know if the gasket on that side may be the problem. "
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I would check the injector. Pull the plug and check for corrosion. Use on ohm meter to check the injector. The resistance should be 11 to 15 ohms. Check it against another injector. they should be close. You can also check the injector plug. best to use is a noid light, but you can use the meter. set it to dc volts to check. the numbers should jump everytime it fires. since you got a 300 and 301 misfire it tells me that you have an intermitant misfire in cylinder 1. The other sensors are still good don't replace them. The coil is still good, because when it starts to go, it will have misfires on all cylinders or will not work at all. The crank sensor is the one that detects the misfire, again don't replace it because it's not bad, it's just doing it's job. If the injector and harness check out good then I would start check the cylinder for compression and mechanical problems
Posted on Nov 24, 2010
It could be carbon deposits on valve seats keeping valves from totally closing. You can try getting you a can of motorcraft PM3 top end engine cleaner and get engine up to operating temp then remove one of the small vacuum lines from the intake and draw the contents of the can slowly into the engine.After you have drawn in the contents shut engine off and let it soak for about 45 minutes then crank it back up and let it run until it clears. Now it will smoke like a forrest fire while you are doing this so don't be alarmed,just tell the neighbors you are spraying for mosqitos.This may cure the problem. If not you may be looking at a valve job.
This can be verified with a compression test if this is what is causing it.
Posted on Feb 05, 2009
SOURCE: Check engine light
A multi misfire may mean that one or more of the following has happened:
Faulty spark plug or wires, Faulty coil (pack), Faulty oxygen sensor(s), Faulty fuel injector(s), Stuck/blocked EGR valve / passages, Faulty camshaft position sensor, Defective computer.
The engine is stumbling or hesitating, check all wiring and connectors that lead to the cylinders (i.e. spark plugs). Depending on how long the ignition components have been in the car, it may be a good idea to replace them as part of your regular maintenance schedule. I would suggest spark plugs, spark plug wire, distributor cap, and rotor (if applicable). Otherwise, check the coils (a.k.a. coil packs). In some cases, the the problems were faulty fuel injectors.
Random misfires that jump around from one cylinder to another (read: P030x codes) also will set a P0300 code. The underlying cause is often a lean fuel condition, which may be due to a vacuum leak in the intake manifold or unmetered air getting past the airflow sensor, or an EGR valve that is stuck open.
Good luck and hope this information helps, keep me posted, be glad to help you get the truck running 100% again. Not sure if your running a K&N air filter, and if you are there may be a flim of oil on the MAF sensor that is making you run lean. You may want to spray down the MAF sensor with a can of MAF cleaner.
Posted on Jul 02, 2009
Check the spark plug wiring . There are several places where the wires cross each other. These wire cross points MUST be at right angles to each other. Or you will have a misfiring problem.
Posted on Jul 07, 2009
when u press the gas pedal to go this opens the throttle valve, the idle speed of your engine is computer controlled, this is done by the ISC (idle speed control) airbypass valve, these parts get full of gunk and then get a stalling problem at or near idle, clean them by doing the following, if u don't understand the instructions seek help from your friend.
, Get a can of intake cleaner from any local parts store, not carb spray, intake cleaner, it is made by a company called CRC, remove the air intake hose to the engine, hold the idle high so the engine won't stall, then spray the can of cleaner into the intake while keeping the engine running, use at least 1/2 the can, shut down the engine and disconnect the battery for 5 minutes, then restart and complete a number of mixed driving cycles, town, freeway, stop and go etc., after a few days the problem will go away as the system will relearn to the clean intake.
Posted on Nov 23, 2009
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