Question about 1996 Oldsmobile Aurora
Catalytic converter was stopped up. Cut it off and replaced with a flex pipe. It now starts but dies. After a couple days of replacing spark plugs and wires, it now is shooting a "Oil level system fault" across the computer. It will not connect to the OBD II code reader. Please help!
See if fuel pump is working...see if gas going . Save time take it to dealer and get them to dianose, may be lot cheaper than swapping out a lot of parts on hit and miss.
Posted on Jul 10, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I know this might be obvious but the obvious is often the problem. Did you replace the coil wire that goes from your coil to the distributor cap? Also, double check to be sure that your wires are connected in the correct order. A little more clarification might help. Does it turn over? Does it just click? When you turn the ignition key then let off does the car clunk or make a wheezing sound?
Posted on Jan 30, 2009
I have some experience with my oldie cutlass 90 that I had import to my farest country : CHILE .
My car seemed to run in three cylinders , of 4 .then started to run good in cold and after 10 minutes stop and die for a long time ...a few days after strat again and dies and so .. I studied about I read about the prom I learnt all abo¡ut this kind of irregular fails that even experiencied machanics can´t solve ...( It took 6 months and seven mechs to solve )..
the cars falls in limp in mode ( a kinda mem programmed mode for a few minutes and everybody thinks it the crankshft sensor , the ignition module , the ecu fial etc simply is code 51 : mem cal fail and limp in state i suggest work with and a code reader and it could be that kind of irregular fail..
ah. it´s too hard to find the eprom so the ECU dealer usually sell it without the eprom .. mine is ANLP 3645 ) federal emission .if you know when can I buy this or a good used one . I ´d shop it again cause I don´t want suffer about it again.. luck
Posted on Feb 16, 2009
could it be the A/C pump kicking in. might be boging down the motor or electrical circuit, not letting the injectors get enough power. This could happen if the bearings are going bad in th A/C pump or there is a short in it. Just an idea. sounds like you have done the main components.
Posted on Apr 16, 2009
If you can get a fuel pressure gauge, check and see if the pressure is 16 to 24 lbs after the engine has warmed up.
I would connect the pressure gauge when the engine is cold, make sure it does not leak or touch anything hot, place the gauge between the hood and the windshield and drive the vehicle until it is at the temperature you feel it "starts hard". Shut the engine off and try to repeat the no start or hard start and make sure the pressure is correct.
Also, when you shut the engine off, watch the pressure and make sure it holds and does not drop to (0 LBS) of pressure.
One last question, has the fuel filter been changed in the past 30K.
Let me know.
Posted on May 08, 2009
Start with the ignition controll module, it's located under the coil pack and can be tested at most parts stores. also could be the crank or cam postion sensors.
Posted on Aug 26, 2009
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