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Remove turbo on a 2008 ford f450 with a 6.4 turbo diesel

Ford f450 super duty with a 6.4 diesel

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: 2000 ford f250 super duty 4x4 7.3L diesel oil leak

The HPOP (high pressure oil pump) is right under the filter housing. There are 2 lines that distribute the oil to the cylinder heads. The o-rings on those fittings go out. Kit is available from Ford or International. You will need a special wrench to get to the fittings though.

Posted on Jun 23, 2008

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SOURCE: Shut 05 Ford f350 diesel off wont start

dies the truck restart once it cools off? it is very common for th 6.0 to have high pressure oil issues on a hot soak. they will run till the cows come home but once shut off they can not build up enough pressure by cranking speed alone to start truck until it cools down and the seals become rigid enough to bridge the gaps they are sealing in the first please. if this is the case. it may be the STC fitting ojn the back of the high pressure oil pump (intake and turbos must be removed to check) or possibly the branch tube o rings have worn. the branch tubes are located under the valve covers and supply the fuel injectors the oil they need to perform their "power stroke"...

Posted on Jun 06, 2009

MNfisherman
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SOURCE: how many quarts of transmission fluid takes ford

On average it is 8 quarts. You can ask part store and they will also know.

Posted on Sep 09, 2009

  • 4 Answers

SOURCE: remove and install diesel fuel injector

First, keep everything as clean as possible. Contamination below 30 microns, which cannot be seen by humans, can destory a diesel fuel injection system. Clean everything off anything having to do with connections on the fuel system and cover any connections left open.

Begin by removing the intake manifold. This will remove the clips holding the injection lines passing underneath and around the intake runners. After removing the manifold, cover the openings in the cylinder head (I use wadded-up paper towels).

Next, remove the clips at the brackets on the injection lines closer to the injectors.

Loosen all of the injection connections at the injectors. Do not remove the lines.

You can remove the water crossover tube if it is in your way, but drain about a 1/2 gallon of coolant before your remove the crossover.

Remove the oil fill tube from the timing cover. Turn the engine clockwise, using a 15/16" socket and ratchet (or breaker bar) on the center bolt of the crankshaft. As you turn the engine over, a bolt will show up at the opening where the oil fill tube was removed. Remover the bolt and keep turning the engine over until you have removed all three bolts. Do NOT use the starter to turn the engine over and, after removing the third bolt, do NOT turn the crankshaft any more.

On top of the timing cover, behind the rounded top, is the place where the injection pump is bolted to the cover from the back side. Clean the top of the timing cover where it meets the injection pump and look for a thin line scribed into the cover and one on the injection pump. Note the position of the two lines (they are usually aligned) for reassembly.

Remove the throttle cable assembly from the injection pump. Remove all the wires from the pump and note which connection the big pink wire goes to. The other wires will be green. Remove the return hose at the top of the injection pump.

There are three nuts holding the injection pump to the timing cover and you will need a 15mm socket and/or wrench to remove them. When you do, the injection pump and injection lines can be removed as a unit. Note the position of the driveshaft of the injection pump to set the new one the same way. If you are not going to put things back together right away, cut up a plastic garbage bag and make covers for the injectors. Secure the covers with rubber bands or nylon cable ties to keep dirt out of the injectors.

Carefully transfer the injection lines to the new pump. It is possible to cross them up so pay close attention while moving the lines. Transfer the fuel inlet pipe to the new pump and whatever device is mounted on the passenger side of the old injection pump to the new pump.

Get a new injection pump to timing cover gasket and install it over the timing cover studs. Install the new injection pump after setting the driveshaft to match the holes in the gear inside the timing cover. The pump can only be installed one way since it is indexed to the gear. Reinstall the nuts on the studs and set the timing marks to the same position they were when you removed the old injection pump (the lines on top of the timing cover and the flange of the injection pump). Tighten the mounting nuts. Make sure that all the injection lines line up at their injectors, but do not tighten the connections at the injectors yet.

Put the first bolt back into the gear through the oil fill tube hole. Hand tighten it and then turn the crankshaft clockwise as before to install the remaining two bolts. Then, tighten all the bolts securely and resinstall the oil fill tube. Reinstall the throttle connections on the injection pump.

Install a new piece of 1/4" fuel line from the fuel filter to the injection pump (the old one is usuall brittle since it never gets changed). Remove the covers over the opening in the cylinders heads and reinstall the intake manifold using new gaskets.

Reinstall all the injection line clips that were removed and the coolant crossover tube (if you removed it and don't forget to add coolant to the radiator). Reconnect all the wiring on the injection pump, except for the big pink wire. Install a piece of clear tubing on the top of the injection pump and connect it to the return tee in front of it (where you removed the rubber hose from the old injection pump).

Now comes the fun part: Disconnect the glow plug relay connector (two small wires in a connector) from the middle of the relay. The relay is usually on the driver's fender and close to the battery.

Crank the engine, in short bursts, until you see fuel in the clear tubing on top of the injection pump. When you do, reconnect the big pink wire on the injection pump. Continue to crank the engine in short bursts (allowing the starter to rest between cranking cycles) until you see fuel dripping out of the injection lines at the injectors. When you do, tighten the connections where fuel is dripping. When all lines have been tightened, reconnect the glow plug relay connector. Remove the clear tubing on top of the injection pump and reinstall the fuel line that was removed from that location.

Then, try starting the engine normally. If it will not start, try some WD-40 down the intake. You can use ether, but you MUST disable the glow plugs be removing the connector at the relay.

The engine may run rough or stall at first but it should smooth out after all the remaining air comes out of the system.

Torque values are as follows:

Intake manifold: 25-37 ft-lbs
Gear bolts: 13-20 ft-lbs
Injection pump mounting nuts: 25-37 ft-lbs
Injection lines: 15-24 ft-lbs ("wrench tight" is fine)
Injection pump fuel inlet fitting: 15-20 ft-lbs

Posted on Feb 17, 2010

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: 2008 Ford F250 6.4 turbo diesel, have 3 DTC codes

SUPERSHIPS PROGRAMMER GIVEN ME LOTS OF CODES AND WILL NOT ALLOW MY TRUCK TO STARTiT TURNS OVER BUT CHOKES ITSELF OFF ONE CODE IS P2291

Posted on Aug 29, 2010

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2 Answers

Diesel. Reduce power lite turned on. Shut off engine and started back up - lite is off. Can it be driven?


Jerry, Drive to a good shop. So many things can cause reduced power light unfortunately. The first step would be to get the truck hooked up to a scanner/computer and have the computer scanned for trouble codes. One thing that you could try is to drain the water from the water separator that is mounted on the frame under drivers front door. If the PCM picks up on water, power is reduced until water is removed/drained. It could be an exhaust sensor that is reading faulty. Unfortunately from here its impossible to tell you exactly what the fault is because there are just so many engine sensor inputs that could cause your problem. Check the attached links, forums,instruction and guides, Good luck
"I hope this helped you out, if so let me know by pressing the helpful button. Check out some of my other posts if you need more tips and info."

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My guess is that you have a 6.0 Diesel and somewhere over 90,000 miles. There are numerous issues with this motor including Head Bolts, Turbo Lubrication and a few other Injector Issues....

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Better check it before it is to late ! .......Sounds like the fins are coming apart...could be lack up lube.
You may have a restricted or leaking oil feed hose.You will have to replace turbo if fins come apart.
Remove induction hose to turbo to check for worn fins,,,hope this helps..........Metalpoet.....cert.
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2008 Ford F250 6.4 turbo diesel, have 3 DTC codes


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Jun 21, 2010 | 2008 Ford F 250 Super Duty 4WD

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2009 Ford F250 Super Duty Diesel Whistling coming from the Turbo


Turbos are noisy if they are working. If you have the 2009 6.4L they (twin turbo) should be pretty quiet unless you have aftermarket items installed. If no aftermarket mods have been done have the coupling joint between the turbos and the outlet gasket checked by your dealer.
If it a 2007 as the heading says the original air filter and exhaust muffle a lot of the turbo whine but not all.

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