Question about Cars & Trucks
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Average time should be around 2-3 hours. Every shop charges different hourly rates. Dealerships will be around at least 80 an hour, smaller shops will run lower.
Posted on Jan 05, 2009
If something off the road tore the boot, yes but if it has not been tore long and you don't hear any clicking noises around corners, you can just replace the boot.
Posted on Mar 08, 2009
Hi there. You really need to replace the whole cv saft on the side that is noisy. Changing just the joint is possible but requires pulling the shaft anyway and is not very probable since the cost and extra labor are as much as buying a new shaft. In either case you will pull your front wheel and brake assembley off the culprit side. Once this is done, you will need to seperate the lower controlarm from the hub via the lower ball joint. This can be done with prybars, but its hard and you will probably rip the rubber boot on the balljoint so its best to use a balljoint press available in many autoparts stores rent-a-tool programs. Once the ball joint is removed you should be able to pull the hub assembley out tword you enough to remove the cv shaft splines from the hub. If you do not have enough room, you may need to seperate the tie rod end as well. You can use the ball joint press for this as well. Once the splined end of the shaft is free of the hub, take a pry bar and find a place on the other end of the shaft where you can pry it out away from the transmission. Sometimes this requires giving it a quick **** to pop it out but there are no bolts or anything holding it. Do becareful not to put the prybar against any breakable components. Once shes out put your new one in the trans and shove it until it clicks in. Put the outer end into the hub before reconnecting the ball joint other wise your not likley to get it in and will have to seperate the joint again. After that you just put ypur brakes and stuff together and you are good to go.
Posted on Mar 17, 2009
the buzzing is most likely the speedo cable ive had a few older cars that do this you might try having someone oil the cable if they can or you can as for the oil light it might be low oil pressure or a bad oil level sensor or even a dirty plug on the sensor
Posted on May 20, 2009
This is a simple job that is why it is not very detailed in your book. Nothing special. Do one side at a time so you have a reference to how to reassemble it. Remove your tire , brake calipers be sure not to stress the rubber brake lines or open the brake lines to air. Remove both upper and lower ball joints. When taking out the ball joints remove the cotter pin and bolt and beat the **** out of the joint for it to release. Then the C/V axles will come right out with a bit out encouragement. You will need a few tools wrenches pry bar hammer. I would buy a Chilton's or a Haynes repair manual for torque specs for reassembly. Good luck and take your time. And unless the axles are making noise you can just replace the rubber boots. Which is alot cheaper.
Posted on Jun 01, 2009
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