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Relay 914224 how to wire it

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94 s10 fuel pump relay clicking no start


The clicking noise at the relay indicates that the relay is bad, or that the wires to the relay and/or connector is bad.

A relay is an electronically activated switch. Inside is a coil. When 12v+ is applied to one end of the coil, and a ground is applied to the other end, the coil gets charged, creating a magnetic field. This magnetic field literally moves a metal lever from position A to position B. One end of the lever is attached to constant battery power. When coil not energized, the lever rests in postion A (which in the case of the fuel pump relay is feeding the battery power to an unused terminal). When the coil is activated, the lever moves to position B (which in this case is a terminal connected to your fuel pump wire). Thus, when the relay is activated, 12v+ is being directed from the battery to the fuel pump.

This fast clicking indicates that the relay coil is not getting a constant voltage or ground supplied to it, thus the lever is moving back and forth between position A and position B, either there is a wiring issue, a connector issue, or an internal issue with the relay.
The relay has 4 wires, black, grey, orange, green with white stripe.
black = ground
orange = battery = 12v+ always
grey = wire out to fuel pump (on some cars this wire is tan with white stripe)
green/white = signal wire from ECM

When key is turned ON, the ECM sends 12v+ out on the green/white wire to the relay for about 2 seconds - this activates the relay coil for 2 seconds, thus running the pump for 2 seconds (priming). When the vehicle is started, the ECM sees a constant ignition signal from the ignition module, and sends a constant 12v+ out on the green/white wire, thus activating the relay coil constantly, and thus running the pump constantly.
When car shut off, no more constant ignition signal, thus ECM stops sending the 12v+ out on the green/white wire.
So, you can kind of test your connector ...
1) remove connector from relay
2) jumper a wire from the slot for the orange wire to the slot for the grey wire - fuel pump should run - wiggle wires to verify at connector
3) probe black wire slot with ohm meter - make sure black wire has constant ground - wiggle wires at connector
test relay ...
1) remove relay from connector
2) rig a ground wire to the tab that had the black wire when in connector
3) apply 12v+ to the tab that had the green/white wire - relay should click once and do this every time you apply the 12v+

That should help you track it down to either a connector problem, a wiring problem, or a relay problem.

Nov 28, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Where can i find the headlight relay


This one is pretty easy to conceptualize if you understand how a relay works - and if can't then you should go read my All About Relays page so you can. You splice two 20A relays into the existing wiring harness right out near the headlights so one relay controls the low beams and one controls the high beams. Use the existing high and low beam wires coming from the firewall to trigger the relay, run a new high power feed (with a fuse!) direct from the battery, and hookup the existing high and low beam wires from the headlights to the "normally open" contact on the relays. The hardest part of all this is typically finding the right wires in the existing wiring harness and finding a place to mount the relays - the actual wiring is pretty easy. Any SPST/normally open relay will do, though most automotive relays are of the SPDT variety - just don't hook anything up to the "normally closed" contact on the relay (pretend it's not there) and you'll be fine.
Note that if you pick some really monster sized off-road headlights that draw more power than the ones that you can plausibly use "on the street", you must use higher amperage relays than what is mentioned here. You must also use the appropriate sized power wires and you may very well end up replacing all of the headlight wiring from the relays out to the headlights themselves

Sep 23, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

To Jerry Ross this is angel u said 4me to put a hot wire from my battery to my fuel pump relay.bcz my grey wire don't have power my ?is to what cable?orng,blk,grn or grey?thnx


Angel, is the wire from the relay to the pump in the tank a gray wire? If this is a GM car or truck, the pump wire is almost always gray. So if you are testing if the pump works with putting battery voltage there at the relay, you would put the jumper wire into the terminal with the gray wire. If you look at the relay, there is etched on a side of it the relay explanation of the terminals. The power side is usually designated terminals 30 and 87-one is the power feed to the relay, and the 87 numbered terminal is usually the power out to the fuel pump. The other two terminals form the coil side of the relay- see the little coiled wire designation on the relay schematic? this is the signal side or coil side of the relay, don't put battery voltage into this side- you could fry the computer. If your relay has one other terminal, designated 87A, this is a test terminal for the fuel pump. A single wire connector is in the engine bay somewhere for a tech to hook up battery voltage to test the fuel pump circuit from the relay to the pump. You are doing the same thing with your jumper wire.

Aug 04, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Headlights won't open on 1985 Corvette


There are two motors, and three relays in the system. Here's how it works:

The headlight door motors reverse direction by reversing polarity. However, the automatic shut off (high torque switch, or HTS) makes that a rather more complex task than at first it might seem.

That's because when a motor reaches its limit, one of the 'wires' is disconnected from the motor by the HTS. Reversing the polarity at this point wouldn't do anything since the circuit is broken by the HTS.

Consequently, each motor has three wires for control. The combination of the blue wire, gray wire, and green wire provide polarity reversal to the motor (to make it able to run in both directions) and to run each motor from its resting state, after it has shut off.

There are of course two motors. They operate and are controlled identically.

Here's the matrix:

RIGHT HAND MOTOR

Blu Grn Gry
up: (+) (-)
dn: (+) (-)

That is, in order to run the motor up, the system connects the green wire to the hot side and the gray wire to ground. In order to run the motor down, the system connects the blue wire to the hot side, and the green wire to ground.

The left hand motor operates the same, except for its blue wire is actually blue with white stripes.

There is an actuator relay for each light mounted on the body of the light housing. There is also an isolator relay, mounted on the fender wall on the driver's side. When operating properly, the two actuator relays act identically.

The actuator relays get their instructions from the isolation relay. When the motors need to run down, the isolation relay is not energized, the blue (and blue/white) wires make with the hot side through the closed contacts of the isolation relay (which is not energized), and the ground is furnished to the motor through the closed contacts of the actuator relay until the circuit is broken by the HTS. When operating properly, neither the motors nor the relays draw any current in the full down position.

When it's time to go up, the actuator relays are energized when the pink wires coming from the isolation relay are connected to the hot side through the newly closed contacts of the isolation relay, the isolation relay is energized because the yellow wire coming from the head light switch is now hot.

When the actuator relays are energized, they furnish 12v from the always hot red wires, through their newly closed contacts, to the green wire. The motor is grounded through the newly closed contacts of the actuator relays. The motors will run up until the circuit is broken by the HTS. When operating properly, with the light doors in the full up position, all relays are energized and draw current, but the motors do not.

There are very counterintuitive things about this circuitry: When the motors are running UP, both the hot side and the ground are furnished by and through the actuator relay. However, when the motors are running DOWN, only the ground is furnished by the actuator relay because the blue and blue/white wires do not run to or through the actuator relay.

Similarly counterintuitive, when the motors are running down, the hot side is supplied by and through the isolation relay, but when they are running up, the hot side is supplied not by and through the isolation relay, but through the always hot fusible link.

That's how the headlamp door relays and motors work. The relays are not cheap but not terribly expensive, either: $17 ea for the actuator relays and $25 for the isolation relay. Proper trouble shooting can save a buck or two.

It is fairly easy to swap the actuator relays from side to side. If the symptoms change with them, then its probably the relays.

Although the actuator relays look similar to the isolation relay, they are very different, they cannot be swapped. Please note that the system is very interdependent, and it's easy to see why Chevrolet changed to electronic (as opposed to electro-mechanical) controls.
Hope this helps.

Apr 13, 2014 | 1985 Chevrolet Corvette

1 Answer

P2102 code throttle actuator control and motor circuit low


best of all, RTM, that is read the manual, its called the FSM.
http://www.scantool.net/software/alldata-diy-1-month-subscription.html
just as it says,
on fly by wire cars. this is the throttle controller
on older cars we have just idle speed controls.
guessing will be expensive, get an ASE tech to diagnose this for you.
can be just dirty, Throttle body.
bad wire to controller , bad grounds to same.
here is a full list
DTC P2102 (generic not suz)
Throttle actuator power supply line circuit low input

DETECTION CONDITION
•The PCM monitors the input voltage from the drive-by-wire relay when the PCM turns the drive-by-wire relay on. If the input voltage is less than 5.0 V, the PCM determines that the drive-by-wire relay control circuit voltage is low.

Diagnostic support note
•This is a continuous monitor (CCM).

•The MIL illuminates if the PCM detects the above malfunction condition in the first drive cycle.

•PENDING CODE is available if the PCM detects the above malfunction condition.

•FREEZE FRAME DATA is available.

•The DTC is stored in the PCM memory.

POSSIBLE CAUSE
•Drive-by-wire relay malfunction

•Connector or terminal malfunction

•Open circuit in wiring harness between main relay terminal C and drive-by-wire relay terminal A

•Short to ground in wiring harness between main relay terminal C and drive-by-wire relay terminal A

•Open circuit in wiring harness between drive-by-wire relay terminal E and PCM terminal 5H

•Open circuit in wiring harness between battery positive terminal and drive-by-wire relay terminal D

•Short to ground in wiring harness between battery positive terminal and drive-by-wire relay terminal D

•Open circuit in wiring harness between drive-by-wire relay terminal C and PCM terminal 4C

•Short to ground in wiring harness between drive-by-wire relay terminal C and PCM terminal 4C

•PCM malfunction (extreme rare)

Feb 06, 2013 | 2007 Suzuki Grand Vitara 4WD

2 Answers

93 chevy caprice 5.0 new fuel pump changed relay and fuse still can't get pump to work can't even get relay to click checked power to relay and used jump wire to pump prime wire pump works w


If relay worked when placed in another vehicle you must have a wiring problem. trace wires from fuse block to relay checking for corrosion or short.

Jan 12, 2013 | Chevrolet Caprice Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

2004 f350 fasher diogram


Can't supply a diagram but I can tell you that 15A fuse 27 in the central junction box (CJB) applies power via a LT BLU/PNK wire to terminal 2 (the coil) of the indicator flasher relay in auxiliary relay box 1. 20A fuse 18 in the CJB applies power via a LTGRN/RED wire to the brake pedal position switch and terminal 3 (the relay arm). Terminal 5 of the relay connects the relay coil to ground (BLK wire). Terminal 1 of the relay supplies power via the LT BLU wire to the turn signals when the relay is closed. Terminal 4 supplies power via the WHT/RED wire to the hazard light circuit when the relay is open.

Oct 31, 2012 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Where is the cooling fan relay located on a 94 Chevy Beretta 3.1?


It is located at the rear of the engine compartment behind the right strut tower. Thyere are 3 or 4 relays there in a cluster. The one you want has 4 wires: 2- RED 1- LIGHT BLUE and 1- DARK GREEN.

Both of the RED wires are HOT at all times. They come from fusible link [G] located at the starter solenoid (RUST colored).

The LIGHT BLUE wire goes to the cooling fan. This one should be hot whenever the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) turns the relay on. One of the RED wires provides battery positive voltage to the LIGHT BLUE wire when the PCM grounds the relay primary (coil) circuit to operate the relay.

The DARK GREEN wire is the relay control circuit from the PCM. One of the RED wires feeds battery positive voltage to the relay coil and the PCM controls the relay by providing GROUND for the relay coil. The DARK GREEN wire goes to Connector #2, PIN #2 at the PCM.

May 12, 2012 | 1994 Chevrolet Beretta

1 Answer

How do i test my fuel pump relay i think it is bad ? 92 chevy 1500 4x4 V8 5.0


Hi, to test your fuel pump relay, unplug the relay, identify the two control circuit terminals and the two power circuit terminals. Most relays have a diagram printed on the case itself to identify these terminals. If not, look at the mounting base of the relay. The two thin-gauge wires that connect to the relay feed the control circuit terminals; the other two thick-gauge wires connect to the power terminals. Test for continuity between the two power terminals on the relay. Using an ohmmeter, set it at the lowest resistance range and touch the meter leads to each of the relay power terminals. You should read infinite resistance; otherwise, the contact points are shorted. If this is the case, replace the relay. Connect the end of a fused jumper wire to the positive terminal of the car battery and the other end to one of the control circuit terminals on the relay. Hook the end of a regular jumper wire to the other control terminal and touch the other end of the jumper wire to a good ground on your vehicle (this could be the engine block itself). As you touch ground with the wire, the relay should make a clicking sound. If not, swap the jumper wire connections. If you still cannot hear the click sound, the relay is shorted. Replace the relay. Leave the jumper wires connected to the relay control terminals and test the power terminals for continuity as you did in step 4. This time you should read zero or a resistance value in the hundredths or thousandths. If you read infinite resistance, replace the relay.

Jun 11, 2011 | Chevrolet 1500 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

1996 Pontiac Sunfire starter wiring - has had the recall service done to add the starter relay. All of the wires were cut to the starter. Here is what I have so far: The battery wire goes to the large...


I am not familiar with the model or the modification. The relay is required to act as a switch to relieve the load on the igniton/starter switch and the stock wiring. The starter switch now switches on the relay instead of operating the starter directly.

The relay contains two parts - the switching contacts and the relay coil or electromagnet that when energised pulls the switching contacts together or apart depending on design.

For use as a starter relay a standard 4-pin relay would be suitable but a 5-pin could be used without detriment leaving one pin unused.

The wire from the ignition/starter switch will be used to energise the relay coil and therefore switch on the current flow to the solenoid. In order to energise it must be part of a circuit and so current must flow through the coil from the ignition/starter switch and then to ground - the thin black wire is traditionally the ground wire for the relay coil, but you will need to check this yourself.

In order to switch a good supply of current to the starter soleniod the relay switching contacts are connected, one to a battery supply and the other one to the soleniod S terminal. The battery supply could be from the battery or from the large stud terminal of the soleniod. If from the battery or other remote place best practice would be to ensure a suitable fuse is also included. While the relay coil ground wire is traditionally thin the battery supply and solenoid wires traditionally are fairly thick.

Sometimes a relay has a helpful circuit imprinted on the cover. Many relays can easily have the cover removed and once you see inside the way it works becomes failty obvious.

I hope this helps...

Apr 01, 2017 | 1996 Pontiac Sunfire

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