I put a new head gasket on a 3f 80 series engine and its still popping and when i de-accelerate even when i go down a hill it does it the timming is correct but its fouling up the spark plugs i have a straight through exhaust system als with headers and the engine is still a little shaky using a lot of fuel also it just chewed the fuel through the reserve tank replaced my inlet /manifold gasket new leads new petrol pump new points and condenser new exhaust valves resurfaced inlet valves new head gasket head the head machined also k&N air filter plesase help
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check the earth for the anti dieseling wire to the carby. I had the same prob and the small wire to the carby on the passenger side had a crook earth. This was forund after a number of previous attempts to solve the issue
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I would check for a large exhaust leak, somewhere between where the exhaust manifolds attach to the engine heads to the muffler. Since you had the heads done, I would inspect the connections between the exhaust manifold & heads, the manifolds and the down/flex pipe, and the oxygen sensor housings.
The Hyundai Elantra 2001 - 2005, 2.0 L engine is noted for this problem. It will lack power on acceleration and run rough and stall while driving. The engine light will come on for misfire codes. This problem is caused by a vaccum leak at the intake manifold gasket. The gasket is broken and needs to be replaced.
To replace the intake gasket with a new one, remove the 12m nuts holding the intake to the cylinder head. Then pry back( note: you do not have to completely remove the intake manifold here) the intake manifold to gain excess to remove the old gasket. Remove any excess gasket and clean with brake cleans the surface area of the intake. Install the new intake gasket on to the head and carefully install intake on to cylinder head studs. Tighten up nuts gradually and evenly to 15-20 ft.lbs.
Hi John, I suggest first carrying out a compression test. As you'll know a difference of readings between combustion chambers can result in misfire and loss of power. It would seem to me that if pressure is building in the cooling system there is something wrong with the head or head gasket. Did you have crack detection carried out? When removing the head I'm guessing you checked for ridge wear in the cylinder bores, so we won't go in that direction. I'm also guessing that the head was skimmed and is not warped? I guess you have used the correct torque setting when refitting the head? If not, as you'll know a leakage between the cylinder head and subassembly can result in combustion leaking into the water jackets, causing pressurization of the cooling system. Did you use genuine replacements when replacing the points and condenser? Make sure the new plug cables are all in good condition. These days we're getting plenty of dud replacement parts inclusive of condenser's and contact breakers! I suggest you carry out a resistance inspection. The ignition timing is as you know, also critical. Did you carry out a strobe setting of the ignition timing or static? I suggest a strobe. Open the peep hole cover on the bell housing and mark the timing at eight degrees BTDC on the flywheel and put a spot of paint on the pointer and reset timing with the engine idling at seven hundred and fifty RPM. Once timing is set, adjust the mixture control screw on the valve body of the carburetor, turning it inwards very slowly. If the engine begins to slow and become "lumpy," turn the screw outwards until the engine speeds up and runs as smoothly and as fast as possible. If the RPM increases too much, reduce by using the idle adjustment screw mounted on the linkages of the throttle butterfly mechanism. An incorrectly set float can also result in flooding and poor fuel consumption. Let me know how you get on. Regards John
HI. This issue has many causes. i will list the most common causes below.
Coolant consumption::: Possible causes______
1. Check the head gaskets. The gasket may be leaking. 2. Check The Intake Manifold Gasket. This gasket may be leaking, worn, or damaged 3. Check the cylinder head for worn or scorn cylinder block.(This will require total breakdown of the engine)
4. Check the water pump seal for leaks as well.
Now that we have covered the basic check points for coolant consumption, i would advise to concentrate on the head gaskets if there are no apparent leaks on or around the engine itself. If the head gaskets are worn, the leak can be introduced to the engine internally, causing the engine to burn off the coolant. this is noticeable by removing the oil cap, after a hard drive. you Will notice steam that will escape the head as soon as you remove the cap. If this is the case, your problem will be with a failed head gasket.
IN a severe case, you will notice white plums of smoke escaping from the tail pipe during acceleration.
Sounds heat related...engine temp does increase after shut-down. Leaving the hood open pretty much eliminates stuff hanging on the fenders so I'd look at the coil, cam sensor and tps as potential culprits. also manifold air temp sensor. Don't know about ice...if it leaks, could cause more problems than it's worth. Manifold gasket is possible but I don't think so.