Question about Nissan Murano
I have 2005 murano and the temp is more than half and the water is going from the radiator to the overfill tank well running than coming back to radiator when it is cool ??
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I have a 1997 Buick Century with the same problem. Both my fans work if the A/C is
on as they should. If your turn off the A/C the passanger side fan will not come on
and at an idle the coolant in the radiator will boil, you can hear it in the overflow tank.
If you are driving there is enough air flow thru the radiator that the coolant doesn't
boil and the car doesn't overheat. I have replace the water pump, the thermostat.
and the ETS or engine temperature sensor mounted just above the thermostat in
the thernostat housing, to no avail, I still have the same problem. The only other
thing is the coolant level sensor in the radiator, which I haven't replace yet due
to the fact you have to pull the radiator in order to replace it, which is a major
undertaking. I have a low coolant indicator on all the time on the dash so I have
a pretty good idea the coolanat level sensor is bad. The coolant level is not low
so that sensor is not working as it should. I hope this may help with your problem.
To test you fan raise the hood when it is cold and top off the radiator and fill the
overflow tank to the cold mark. Start the car and let it idle with the A/C off and
see if the drivers side fans comes on. It will have to get to operating temp
before the fan will come on. If it doesn't come on replace the radiator low coolant
sensor on the passanger side of the radiator. If that doesn't fix the problem
replace the thermostat and the Engine Temperature Sensor at the thermostat
housing with an A/C Delco Engine Temperature Sensor. Good Luck..
Posted on Nov 11, 2008
Look for a loose connection to the temperature sender unit on the motor.
If all connections OK, you may need a new temp sender unit.
Posted on Jul 28, 2009
SOURCE: 98 Mustang v6 - no AC
Make sure the radiator pressure cap is the correct one and that the hose is not soft--check the lower hose and heater hoses for softness as well. They should be firm, but not hard or cracking. The temperature sensor is reporting normal operating temperature, so it and the thermostat are working correctly (hot water would blow out of the radiator if it were stuck). Check the cooling fan for free turning and no noise. Check it's grounding connection. Check the fuse box for blown fuses to the fan and to the A/C compressor. Make sure all the relays and fuses are firmly pressed into their sockets. Check the A/C compressor clutch winding for resistance--should not read infinity. Does the blower motor for the heater/A/C run when either is turned on? The A/C switch on the dash may be defective.
Posted on Sep 08, 2009
Testimonial: "Excellent suggestions for diagnostic checks! Thanks!"
It sounds like you have air in the Cooling system and the bars leak permanent seal does not help. The sealer creates restrictions through out the water jackets and can cause the thermostat to stick. Replace the radiator cap and run the truck with the radiator cap on the first click and keep an eye on the over flow tank, refill the over flow as needed and make sure you have the heater on the highest setting to work out all the air in the system. Once all the air has worked it's way out of the system, then you can close the radiator cap to the second click to ensure full pressure is built up in your cooling system. Good luck and keep me posted.
Posted on Dec 09, 2009
Testimonial: "I'll try that! Thanks!"
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