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Locate the Idle Air Control (IAC) valve and verify that there is good hot coolant flowing to the valve. The valve has a built-in thermo element to open the valve further when the engine is cold.
2. If the coolant lines are good and hot, locate the 3-cavity connector on the IAC valve. The Yellow/Black (Y/B) wire is the ground for the closed windings of the valve. Back probe the Y/B wire and with the car running ground the wire, the idle should slow way down and possibly stall the engine. If it does not slow way down, look for a sticking IAC valve.REMOVE IAC VALVE, CLEAN WITH CARB. CLEANER, ACTUATE VALVE WITH A POWER PROBE TO OPEN AND CLOSE VALVE. REINSTAL.
1. At the idle speed control valve, use a volt meter to measure the voltage on the open and close winding. The open winding should be approximately 3 volts cranking and 5 volts when the key is released. The voltage should slowly climb towards 7.5 volts. The close winding will start out at 11 volts and slowly drop towards 8.5 volts.
2. Monitor the coolant sensor voltage using a volt meter. Do not use the scanner only.
3. Check that the power steering pressure switch is not on.
4. Check that the throttle position sensor signal voltage is .49 volts at closed throttle.
5. Use the scanner to check any other inputs to the computer.
Do you mean GFI ? as in electrical plug ? If so, on the plug there is a "line" side for the white and line side for the black.... there is also a "load" side for white and a load side for black. You will have to determine which wires are load and which are line. The "line" side is your "hot wire" and the load side is for down stream plugs or appliances. Dis connect all wires from the plug. "Then" turn the electrical system is on and use a meter to see what wire are hot and which ones are not. The Hot wire black and matching white will go onto the "line" side of the plug. the other black and white will go onto the "load" side of the plug. That should do it :)
Had the same problems with the passenger window motor and the airbag light. For tgeh window, the magnetic bushings were worn down on mine and had to replace the entire unit. About a 2 on a 1-5 difficulty scale. The part itself can be found on eBay for about $45 inc. S
Depending on the unit you need to adjust one or two knobs to get the brakes to work If you have an ohm volt meter you can test to see if the brake line has power at the plug from the truck if it does then plug it in have someone hold the brake pedal down and with the ohm volt meter ground the black lead of the meter to the frame or the backing plate. Next yest to see if you have voltage to the wire by probing the wire one Will be ground and the other will be positive if it does not have power then you may have a fuse on the trailer your not seeing you will have to plug in the plug and follow the power along the path of the wire for the brake. test on each side of the plug then at each junction that you see working back to the trailer brakes. If you have power then try turning the control knob on the controller half way on one or both knobs you may have. once you have turned the knob see if there are any lights on the brake light controller if there is then have someone in the truck with the key on go to the rear by the trailer wheels and have them press on the brake listen to see if you can hear the brakes moving or humming if they are not then you will have to remove the axle hub ans look to see if the surfaces are rusted or the floating magnets are frozen if they are loosen them up then sand both the brake pad side and the surface where the magnet connects reinstall and try again if you have power and the brakes are still not working get back to me and I will give you some more testing information. Hope this helps and thanks for using fix ya.
Most likely the brake pads are bad and the drums need to be turned the magnets are not able to lock the shoes in place. You may want to adjust the brake shoes firs, if the shoes have worn down then it will not brake without an adjustment. Jack up one side at a time and turn the Star up in the slot on the back of the brake plate adjust till you feel the wheel start slightly grabbing back off one click then do other side, see if they work by pulling the trailer and using the electric brake only see if it slows down your truck when you apply the manual brake bar on front of the electric brake. Does it slow you down? Yes? then you got it fixed if no then you will have to remove the drums and see if the surface is uneven where the magnets go. hope this helps let me know if you need more information.
My best bet is its your Sliding roof drive gear sub-assembly. I would also check your sliding roof control switch and you wiring harness. In fact i would check those those first since they are the fastest to check and then that only leaves your sub assembly. you will need to remove your headliner to test everything. And you will need a volt meter that you can get for a couple bucks at most electrical stores. use your volt meter to make sure your getting the same amount of to power to your switch as your getting just past it when it is closed. then test the wiring closest to your motor with the switch closed and there a very minimal amount of volts lost. If everything checks out i would go with the sub assembly. Hope this helps.