Question about 1996 Oldsmobile Aurora
The GM repair shop checked all 5 relays. They are in working order. Also the manual switch is not working. The repair shop and GM don't know why.
I had a very similar problem with my 99.I'll bet your tail and perimeter lights are out as well.I went through and cleaned the contacts on the headlight switch and that didn't take care of it. I also went through the entire electrical system ran all the tests for power and I changed the lamp control module. So after I had gone through everything I could think of that could possibly be the problem including swapping out for more relieved and pulling out all of the fuses replace them I started the car and lights came on I thought I'd fixed the problem. But after a few days problem returned.keep in mind the headlights work I don't know if that's the same with yours. I started thinking about it and decided to start the car and turn on the headlight switch and go round and wiggle all relays pulled all the fuses stuck them back in.I tapped on a couple of the other that we're not related to that system.I went around to a couple other places where related components we're located and kinda banged on the area with my hand to see if that would make it kick on. I have a remote starter in my car it's located right onthe bottom of the steering column the bottom of my steering column. I had talked to the guy that installed it and ask him if any of the wires for that connected into this system there is one that splits the wire going to the starter enable module for the cars security pass key system. I just finished up an hour ago. I found the problem when I got in the car and banged on the dash and around the fog light switch and by the sentinel panel. The lights came on when I kicked the bottom of the cover panel that goes between the firewall and the drivers knee bolster. Its the one that the obd 2 plug goes through. I didn't take it any further than that. I'm just going to go with kicking it when it doesn't work until that option is expired or I get some time to check it out. I know it sounds dumb but if you do everything that I did and don't have any luck then you have to start trying to find ground connection which seems to be a big secret by the lack of availability of any clear schematics that are usable from the factory. Most people will tell you not to pull all the fuses or relays I pulled while it's running. But really there's not much chance you're going to fry something like you can if you disconnect some of the sensors withthe battery connected. Fuses and breakers after all are the place where these systems are designed to be disconnected. Also keep in mind most if not all of the switches are downstream of the powered component. Which means the switches connect the circuit to ground. Rather than controlling the flow of power to the component as was the norm on older vehicles. Hope this helps you out or someone. I wasn't able to find anything other than posts all relating to the headlight switch contact cleaning solution everywhere I looked. And some schematics that were nearly useless.
Posted on Nov 04, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I had avery similar problem with my radio. At first I would lose audio but it would eventually come back. Then I lost it for good. I replace the radio and that work for a bit and then replaced the speakers and they worked for a bit. Eventually no audio. I took the radio and speakers back to the tech who installed them and he found a short in the speaker wiring to the passenger speakers. He installed a jumper around the short and the new radio and speakers worked fine. Then I had him put in the original raidio and speakers and have had audio ever since.
Posted on Jun 28, 2009
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