I know that the knocking is from the connecting rod bearing so I changed it out and it was quiet for half hour or so. So I did some asking and heard it might be a oil passage plugged. So my question is if there is anyway to unplug oil passage to crank and bearings without pulling the motor or replacing it.
Usually no. You can try an additive like seafoam to see if that will clean it out but under normal circumstance, you will have to pull the motor to clean it out.
Also, you need to make sure you have the right bearing (They are usually marked with colored paint) someone could have used a larger bearing on that con rod before and you may not have know and installed the wrong size. Only way to tell for sure is to use plastigauge.
SOURCE: how do I replace the blower motor on my 2000 Honda Civic
Its actually really easy. Take the glove box out. There should be 4 bolts that hold it on. You will see a white container directly behind where the glove box sat. On the bottom of that container your blower motor will be mounted. There is one plug that goes to the blower motor. There are 3 screws that hold the blower motor on. Now depending on your tools you may or may not have to pull the white container off to get the blower motor out. To take the container out you will find 2 silver straps that hold it on. There will be 4 bolts between the two straps. Just unplug the wires that go to that box and the cable that controls the vent (or wire for CRX's) and the box should slide right out and you can change the motor that way.
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SOURCE: Motor Oil leaks from 1999 Honda Civic EX
make sure they are tight
could be time for head gaskets
make sure the old gasket from the old filter came off the block sometimes they come off old filter and stick this causes a leak due to improper seal.
SOURCE: I need instructions on how to replace rear wheel bearings on my 1994 Honda Civic
Bearings are pressed into the hubs...much easier, faster and economical (if you don't have a press) to replace the complete bearing/hub assembly, no pressing is needed, since bearings are already pressed into the new hubs. Cost..aprox, 60 buxs each.
Here are the steps for the rear replacement...
Loosen the lug nuts on a rear wheel. 2) Chock the wheels and jack the rear of the car on the side with the lug nuts that you just loosened. 3) Remove the wheel by removing the lug nuts. 4) Pry open the dust cap covering the center of the axle/spindle. A small screwdriver tapped into the space between the hub and dust cap will work well for this. 5) With the dust cap now removed, use a thin center punch to straighten the little dent in the rim of the spindle nut so that you will be able to turn it freely in the next step. 6) Use a 32mm socket and a large breaker-bar to loosen the spindle nut. Unscrew the nut all the way and place it in a clean, safe area. 7) You should now be able to slide the hub/bearing assembly from the shaft. 8) Installation is the reverse of removal. Use plenty of high-temperature wheel bearing grease on all surfaces before you mount the replacement hub assembly.
IMPORTANT: Torque the spindle nut to 134 ft/lbs....(per manual specs)
When reinstalling the dust caps, tap them gently into place to avoid denting them...Install wheels, jack her down and pat yourself on the back...job complete.
Good luck..hope this will fixya up...please take time to leave me a fixya rateing...
SOURCE: oil filter in civic 97
If you go to a reputable motor factor,
you can only be sold the correct filter for the civic.
As there are soo many variables in engine type, it's almost impossible to tell, oil volume, or which type filter.
However, I will say, be sure that you don't mix semi-synthetic oil, and mineral oil.
Oil changes should be undertaken every 30,000 miles, (unless under extra work load, (in which case, slightly more regularly))
Otherwise, 10/40 or 15/40 grade oil, is perfectly fine.
The trick to not overfilling the oil, is simply just to take your time, clean the dip stick and retry, until you have the correct reading.
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