There are several problems. Your caliper could be stuck and that is a problem. You probably have a rubber brake hose that is clogged up internally and restricting the flow of fluid, a second problem.
The internal rubber hose can form flaps which close off the flow of fluid. You only have pressure in 1 direction so it is easier to have a stuck caliper because the fluid will trap in the caliper and refuse to return to the Master cylinder.
But this must really be blocked or the safety valve has shut off the diagonal lockout for the ABS. For safety when fluid pressure is lost, a valve shifts and tries to keep a front and a rear brake diagonally supplied with fluid.
What you need to try before giving up on the current project is bleed your brakes starting from the longest rear line and work your way forward with the last line being the shortest.
You may discover that you now have fluid bleeding from the problem caliper. If so, part of the problem was the safety valve killed the fluid flow. You still have a bad rubber line, and possibly a stuck caliper, but now you may have fluid flow.
If I were you, I would buy a rubber brake line and change it before bleeding the system. Then you can see if the caliper is working or not. Rubber lines are cheap compared to most parts.
By bleeding the lines as I recommend, you stand a chance of centering the safety valve and solving part of your problems. If a rear line diagonal to the problem front caliper is also dry, then the safety valve was tripped.
With the rubber brake line removed, you should be able to compress the problem caliper with ease; if not, it is stuck and should be replaced.
At this point, I should mention the ABS box. Pressure coming from the box can be measured as well as Master cylinder pressure going to the box. Hydraulic gauges would be necessary. It would be the final explanation to your problems should the easier solutions fail. Testing price versus component price should be considered.
You will restore fluid flow and be able to test your stuck caliper using what I gave you.
SOURCE: Brakes on 2000 Mercury Moutaineer wont stay
did you check the master cylinder? makke sure the cap is on tight....and full of fluid
SOURCE: rear caliper sticking ? after new pads installed
Did you drain excess fluid out of the reservoir?
SOURCE: rear brakes 05 merc montego
Try turning again clockwise with a little more pressure. If the brakes were worn badly the piston is just stuck from being adjusted out so far.
NOTE: Removing a small amount of brake fluid from the master cylinder using a turkey baster
Fig. 4: Tighten the C-clamp until the piston reaches the bottom of its bore
Fig. 5: Remove the caliper mounting bolts
Fig. 6: Slide the caliper off the brake rotor
Fig. 7: Support the caliper so that no tension is placed on the brake hose
Fig. 8: Hold the anti-rattle clip while removing the outboard pad (4)
Fig. 9: Removing the outboard brake pad
Fig. 10: Remove the inboard pad and anti-rattle clip
Fig. 11: Removing the inboard brake pad
Fig. 12: Removing the anti-rattle clip
Fig. 13: Install the support spring onto the shoe of the inboard brake pad
Fig. 14: Installing the inboard pad
Fig. 15: Piston extension on new and worn brake pads
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