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Anonymous Posted on Sep 04, 2017

I have a 2005 Lincoln LS with under 62,000 miles. I purchased it used about 4 weeks ago. It has ran perfect, until tonight. We stopped at a gas station. It started fine but then about 20 feet away it just died. It will start but won't stay running. It had been raining, so we did go through rain puddles on the road. It acts as though it is just not getting any fuel.

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Budd Staub

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  • Contributor 25 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 25, 2017
Budd Staub
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Could be the fuel filter located behind the left front wheel shield they tend to get blocked easy

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 2 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 12, 2009

SOURCE: rain sensor

that small box below your rear view mirror

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Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Feb 12, 2009

SOURCE: 1991 lincoln towncar died while driving,not getting fuel.

try resetting the fuel pump inertia switch located in the side of the trunk.

Anonymous

  • 24 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 30, 2009

SOURCE: 2002 lincoln ls died while driving it now it will not start .

I'm having a similar problem with my ford. By the sounds of it you have a fuel delivery problem, either clogged fuel filter or bad fuel pump (there are other issues that can cause this problem). Steps will have to be taken to try and narrow the problem down. i.e. check for spark, fuel pressure. Have someone turn the key over while you listen near the tank, if you hear a whining or similar noise this usually means your fuel pump is working.

cw automotive

  • 25 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 16, 2009

SOURCE: Battery dies in the rain

Since you've already had a smart aleck response from someone wich was probalby quite helpful! and you are obviously rather frustrated i would probably start( assuming you do mean that it wont turn over when it rains out ) by finding a manual release these cars are usaully equipment with them for sitiuations like these. next time it does this use a multimeter to see if you do in fact have voltage at the battery. Before it happens again i would probably try pulling all of my ground as well as power cables first to see if they are tight, next to see if there is a lot of corrosion at the battery and where it hooks in at the front of the car especially where the positive goes into your fuse panel computer supply (dont forget grounds there should be one going from the battery to the frame and one to the motor)when you have them apart clean them with a wire brush and use die-elecric grease to assure good positive connections. You should also have a load test done on the battery(wich is free at autozone and advance auto) because if you have a cell going bad or already bad sometimes thet can do some pretty weird thingsand a battery is usaually pretty cheap insurance. If it is in the ignition it is most likely either a distributor cap because these are notorious for wicking moisture if they are not sealed 100% correctly, or you have a problem with your ignition control module (wich autozone and advance test free also, on most models) the other test you can do yourself is a drain test this will tell you if you have a short somewhere in the system allowing it to stay on consistently killing your battery sporadically, pull the negative terminal put a test light between the battery ground and the terminal do not recconect the terminal if the test light lights up you have a problem have an assistant pull the fuses in the fuse block until the light goes out, now you have isolated the culprit and can have someone experienced with car electronics fix your problem. I know how weird electronics can be, so i hope i have been of some assistance. If you have any more questions just ask when you review my response chris

Anonymous

  • 538 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 12, 2010

SOURCE: I hace a 2003 lincoln ls v8 3.9l. I was driving

Try taking the exhaust pipe loose at the manifold. I had a Chevy Suburban that acted the same way, it turned out to plugged catyletic converter. The converter wasn't letting the exhaust out, the truck had no power, it would stall and then start right up and great for about five seconds the run rough and quit. Once I disconnected the exhaust it started right up and ran great. You could also try taking the O2 sensors out (for test purposes) ahead of the converter that will give the exhaust a place to go

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My 2004 Lincoln ls has been acting up. First it was running rough so I changed coil on 4 and then 2 seven monthes later after which car ran great. Now on two occasions when triing to start alarm goes off...

I don't think going to AutoZone for codes is of much
value to anyone

Obviously your LS don't miss on 4 cyl or have 4 bad coils

You didn't need to replace any coils except the one that fails,
which is 1 or 2 a year on that car.

You most likely have one really bad coil that sets all kinds
of codes.

You can buy one new coil & walk it every couple days until
you get to the bad one or go to a repair shop with an oscilloscope
and the correct inductive coil adapter.

You need to use the correct OEM style plugs (NGK)
were the motorcraft mfg.

Check alternator output with a scope & make sure
the battery isn't more than 4 years old. Todays cars
are sensitive to voltage,current,resistance and grounds

Clean the MAF Sensor (crc maf cleaner)

At 100,000 miles replace front O2 Sensors
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Rough running/Stalling

you need to check your fuel pressure
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