2.0 turbo no compression new head timing is dead on,,, ideas???

TD as in Turbo Diesel? They all tend from smoke a bit under acceleration.

White smoke is steam
Blue smoke is oil
Black smoke is rich mixture (in a gas / petrol vehicle)

..

Have you put each cylinder at top dead center on compression
stroke & done a cylinder leak down test BEFORE ever starting
the motor,& is the timing belt still on & timed correctly?

Compression is relative to many things & not much use these
days,you got it or you don't

you need to do a compression test on all cylinders. All cylinders should have about the same amount of compression with a minimum of 120 psi.
if there is a major drop of compression in a cylinder that means there is a malfunction in that cylinder(bad valve, broken rings, etc
if there is a major drop in compression between 2 cylinders then that means you have a bad head gasket.
if all cylinders read 0psi then you have a broken timing belt
If all cylinders read about the same then you need to check the timing and make sure the cam(s) and crank shaft are still at top dead center (TDC)

1- disconnect battery
2- remove valve cover
3- remove timing cover
4- set engine on top dead center #1cylinder
5- remove timing belt ( mark direction if re-using belt)
6- remove camshaft & rocker arms
7- remove spark plugs
8- install compression tester hose in cylinder that you want to replace seals and apply 90 to 120psi of air
9- install valve spring compression too and compress valve spring
10- remove valve spring locks and valve spring
11- remove old valve seal and replace with new
12- reverce order to reasable

You will need to adjust the fuel pump and get this calibrated for the correct pressure and delivery. Now make sure the timings are correct to confirm.
Hope there is no oil consumption in the engine to give the benefit of doubt to the engine compression/compression/oil rings.
This must solve the issure.

Sounds like the turbo seal is leaking just from the symptoms but the blue smoke can also be valve guides or valve seats. It can also be the piston rings that have seized to the piston body.

It is time to save yourself a $75.00 shop charge and buy a compression tester. (make sure you have the Diesel compression test adapter also) Then check the compression on all cylinders. If the compression is good then your looking at either turbo or cylinder head repairs. The blue smoke is telling you it is time to do something as it will be sitting on the sidelines come the next SMOG test.

Four cylinder inline, water cooled, overhead valve diesel engine with dry liners available in Turbo(T) or normally aspirated(NA).
Bore 95.4mm
Stroke 107
Displacement 3.059 litre
Compression ratio 20:1
Idling speed NA 750, T 720 rpm
Firing order 1-3-4-2
Injection timing NA: 1 deg after top dead centre(ATDC), at top dead centre(TDC) for turbo
Valve clearance (cold): 0.4mm for intake and exhaust.

Air getting in to the cooling system is a good indication that the head gasket has gone bad. During the time your turbo will boost the compression ratio is when the air will get pushed through the head gasket into your cooling jackets between the engine block and head's. Good luck and hope this helps.

My book shows that P0245 is the super/turbo charger solenoid "A" voltage is low.

The ONLY way coolant can get into the crankcase is through a crack in the cylinder head, block, or head gasket. THE ONLY WAY!.

Checking compression was a good idea, and you've confirmed that is not where the leak is. It could be somewhere else within a head, the block, or head gasket.

Any gasoline engine will blow steam from the exhaust pipe on start-up and a few minutes running. May even stink, depending on how sensitive your nose is to smell.

I think your going to have to dig deeper into this, if you truly had coolant in the oil. But to tell you exactly where to look is not going to be easy.