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Heres what you will need to do this type of job. First you will need a rachet and metric sockets with an extention if available. Also you will need somthing to press the caliber piston back into place a special tool or some kind of press would work . A plastic auto hammer to knock the rotors loose, somtimes they can be difficult to remove. Pliers would be needed as well as a screw driver to help mount the caliber or pads back into place. One thing to keep in mind is that if you indeed are replacing the rear rotors, it is recommended to get new pads as well. This is for the reason that old pads will cause break sqealing since they are not surfaced perfectly straight for the new rotor. Step one will be to get the caliber of the vehicle so if there is a medal clip on one of the studs just use the pliers to rip it off. Then use the rachet to remove two bolts holding the caliber. After you remove those bolts, there should be another two bolts holding the caliber bracket as well, do the same procedure in removing those. IMPORTANT do not let the caliber hang by the brake cable, put it on a stand or in a location where it is not free fall hanging. Now you should just have the rotor left, try pulling on it to see if it breaks loose, if not then use your plastic hammer to bang in the back of the rotor and knock it loose that way. If I remember correclty those rear rotors will have brake shoes underneath. Do not wory about those they are there for your emergency brakes. Now put the new rotor on and make sure it is securley installed on the wheel hub. Install you'r bracket first, then begine to install your caliber back into place. NOTE the caliber may not install to easy onto the rotor for the reason that you will need to compress the piston inside with either the special tool or some type of press. If you compress it and you hear brake fluid dripping down, it is nothing to worry about, its just the fluid being pushed back by pressure. Install the caliber and pads the same way as removal paying close attention to the other side if your not sure of how the originally were installed. When all this is finished look up brake bleading on YOUTUBE.com to accurately bleed your brakes and remove any air inside that may cause spongy or moister inside your brake lines.
i just changed my front rotors and pads on my 2001 escape, 6 cylinder. everyone was wrong on the wrench sizes, including the idiots at my local ford dealer. to get the brake calipers off I needed a 7mm hex bit. to get the caliper bracket off I needed an 18mm socket, it was a very easy job but check your wrench sizes first, it seems that every year and model uses different sizes.
loosen lug nuts. jack car up. Take wheel off. take the 2 bolts out of caliber. then remove the caliber from rotor and then remove the brake pads. push back piston with piston pushing tool. insert new brakes into caliber and return the caliber onto the rotor. put the 2 bolts back in and return wheel by tightining in a star order and you are now ready to roll
If that is the problem...put your allen wrench or socket on the bolt. Then put a CRECENT wrench on that end of your ratchet....you need leverage....trust me, it will break loose.
So this is what it takes to replace rear brake rotors on a 2003 Mercedes E320;
1) open the bonnet (hood) of the car and loosen/remove the cap off of the brake fluid resevior.
2) remove outer spring clamp from brake assembly (it clips in to the iner edge of the holes of the caliper).
3)using a 7 MM allen wrench, remove the brake caliper.
4) using 18 MM box wrench, remove the caliper housing assembly off of the wheel hub.
5) using a star wrench, unscrew the rotor locking screw from the rotor
6) squirt some liquid wrench on the rotor hub and knock the rotor with a hammer to work the liquid wrench in.
7) using the same hammer, knock the rotor off the hub.
8) using a metal file, lightly file old residue off of the hub and place the new rotor on the hub.
9) set the hub by screwing in the lug nuts and then screw in the hub locking screw using the star wrench, then remove the lug nuts.
10) reinstall the caliper housing assembly onto the wheel hub using the 18 MM box wrench.
11) push back the brake claiper piston to its home position and install the inner brake pad (the one with the snap clips)
12) insert the outer brake pad in the claper housing assembly.
13) slide on the caliper housing with the inner brake pad in place (over the outer brake pad) and screw in the caliper screw rods using the 7 MM allen wrench
14) on the right wheel brakes, DO NOT FORGET to slide in the brake sensor (the one with the black connector) and connect it to the connector on the caliper housing.
15) be sure to reinsert the spring clamp onto the outer brake assembly to set the assembly squarely onto the wheel (there should be no wiggle in the brake assembly after the spring clamps are installed).
16) finally mount the wheels.
17) you can bleed the brakes at this point to release any trapped air (which is unlikely) but be sure to pump the brakes after starting the car BUT BEFORE MOVING IT to re-preassurize the brake system before driving the car.
17) ONE WEEK LATER - recheck brake assembly to ensure all is okay and brake fluid.
This proposed solution is for a 2003 Mercedes Benz E320 and NOT a 2005 model as stated by the limited option selection provided by FIXYA.com when initially describing the problem.
Take the wheel off then remove the caliber (brakes ) and then have to remove the nut and pin from the center of the wheel on then it should slide off easy
when takeing off the brakes wen you remove the caliber make sure u us something to hold the calibers piston in like a C clamp or something of that size
you should be doing a brake job if you cant figure that out
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