SOURCE: abs brake warning light comes on and rear brakes remain stuck on
I would bypass abs contraption with new line.(87 dually) abs located under drivers side cab looks very susceptible and is known to fail.I would trust my foot before that old thing.Im rippin it out of my truck & replacing it with new line all the way back.Old lines rusted pretty bad.Better safe than sorry.unplug light bulb or just leave it in .Jersey cant say anything if its 94 or older at inspection.that goes for all the lights.For me,older is better.I dont know what setup you have or if you sold it, you could try replacing it for about 160 at advanced.I hope its not the computer screwin up,thats probably a dealer item.Try unpluging hydraulic unit for shits & giggles.Go over rear brakes again before you start cutting.
SOURCE: rear brake
Sounds like you have a stuck caliper on the rear, and brake pads worn out. Replace caliper, pads and most likely rotors.
SOURCE: Drum brakes causing intermittent grinding noise
Sounds like one of the springs that hold the rear brakes in place broke. Jack her up, pop off the tire, remove the drum and take a look. If you need to see what a good one looks like, look on the other side.
This is not a very common problem, but I saw it last year on a 69 chevelle.
Good Luck and thanks for using FixYa!!
SOURCE: Grinding noise in rear end when braking. Noise
This could be cause by your worn out pads. Some car would have thin metals on the pads that gets exposed when the pad is wearing out. The exposed metal then makes contact with the disk. If the pad is still in good condition you may want to inspect physically the wheel and its assemble for physical wear. It could also be caused by bearings starting to wear out or may just need a grease job.
SOURCE: replaced rear brake pads, now there is a hissing
There are 2 things that can use vacuum near the brake pedal. If you have cruise control, there is a safety switch on the pedal to shut off the curise when you apply the brake. This switch may be leaking.
The other part is the brake booster, which is actually in the engine compartment but bolts to the firewall, and your brake pedal mechanism pushes into the booster. You will need to get your head under the dash with the engine running and press on the pedal to locate the leak--on the switch or on the wall.
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