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Clutch wint out in 97 ranger,think it's the master cyclinder
No sign of wear before clutch went out.resivor was empty,refilled and now fluid won't pump down(no air bubbles).need help on removing and installing new master cyclinder.hopefullly solving my problem
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I assume you are saying you added fluid to the clutch master cylinder? What type fluid did you use - should have been brake fluid. If the master cylinder was empty there is obviously a leak in the system, usually from the "slave" cyclinder. The system is also full of air and needs to be bled.
cluch master cyclinder is shot unless the slave cyclinder is out look for fluid on firewall by master cyclinder if dry check by clutch under car plus slave cyclinder needs to be bleed when new fluid is put in
you need to inspect the clutch hydraulic system to look for a leak.check in the truck were the master cylinder bolts to the firewall as if the master is leaking out the back it will show up the leak in this area.check around the master under the hood to see if there are signs of it leaking.check at the transmission were the slave cylinder is as this is another place they leak.if you have to fill the master because its empty there is a leak somewhere.you also may need the clutch replaced as the slave cylinder moves out to adjust for wear of the clutch which will lower the fluid level but not cause it to be empty.you will have to bleed the clutch system at the slave cylinder,there should be a bleeder screw to do this.if you find the leak in the clutch system you will have to replace the system as some come complete master lines and slave.some come with just the slave,lines,master as separate components.
Alright, non resistance when pressing the clutch can be for couple of reason, First the fluid is low, and you can tap this off by filling it up, The resevior for it in your master cyclinder pistol which is located towards the top firewall of your driver side. Next to your brake fuild refill tank. Top this off to it's recommended level with brake fluid the DOT requirement. If still no pressuire from your clutch, then it could be your master cylinder, Test this by pressing on the clutch and have someone open the resvior tank cap and see if there is any movement in the liquid. If there is, then it could be your slave cylinder where it is located towards your clutch housing. Once located, You can also test it by bleeding the bolt to see and having someone pressing on the clutch to see if fluid is being push or with the bleeding bolt screwed back on, see if the metal rod connected to the slave cylinder is moving when clutch is being pushed inside. If everything seems to work, then your clutch is bad, damaged pilot, or clutch bearing or simply worn out clutch.
Hello Henry. There are a couple of possibilities. First of all, check the fluid level in the reservoir under the hood. It is mounted on the firewall opposite of the clutch pedal. Remove the cap and pull the rubber boot out to fill it (with brake fluid ONLY!). If it is empty there is a leak. It is usually one of two places. The master cylinder or the slave cylinder. The master is mounted to the firewall and has a piston in it that pushes fluid through a line to the slave cylinder that is mounted between the engine and transmission. Look for signs of fluid leakage and that will generally tell you which one needs repair. The master on the firewall will usually leak on the inside of the truck where the rod from the clutch pedal goes to it and the slave will usually drip out the front of the transmission.
There are two types of clutch actuators. (Mechanical & Hydtraulic)
A. For mechanical type,- Check the clutch cable as
this could be cut from wear and tear. This is easy
to replace. You can find this connected to the
pedal and the clutch lever near the transmission.
B.For hydraulic operated - Check the level of the
hydraulic oil at the cylinder of the hydraulic
actuator under the hood. This actuator is
directly connected to the pushrod driven by the
pedal. If the actuator is leaking, you have buy
a repair kit (Hyraulic clutch repair kit for Ford
Ranger 1994 MOdel.) These items must be
repaired to activate your pedal.
no, there is no clutch adjustment. the clutch is hydraulic, and self adjusting, there are several things that can go wrong with these. with normal wear the fluid can run low allowing air into the system, causing a weak peddle. they can also develop leaks in the master and slave cylinders resulting in fluid loss also causing a weak peddle leading to an inopperative clutch. check the fluid level in the clucth master cylinder(next to the brake master cylinder. if it is empty, refill it(it takes brake fluid) then cycle the clutch peddle a few times and check for leaks. if there is air trapped in the line the clutch will need to be bled. there is a bleeder screw on top of the slave cylinder, bleed it just like bleeding brakes.
the fluid is going somewhere of course but your clutch lines do not run into the transmission itself it runs to a slave cyclinder that should be on the side of your transmission most likely where you seen that bleeder valve at normally if you can put fluid in the master cyclinder and you can shift gears fine it is your slave cyclinder that is going out if this is so all you have to do is unbolt it from the side of the tranny and replace it. It should only have 2 bolts, 1 line, and a rubber grommet on one end with a rod in it if you take it off just put the new one on the same way just in reverse order. hope every thing goes well.
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