For a couple weeks when I started the car sometimes it would knock or really it was a rapid clank and the oil pressure light would come on for a few minutes till it got going down the road. it would stay on like 40 second give or take then it would stop the noise and the light would turn off and be fine. also Sometimes but rarely when I would park and leave it running lets say to go inside a store and grab a pop I would come out and it would do the knocking noise Until I start driving again and it would stop like 20 seconds later hell sooner like as soon as I pressed the gas and started moving.... Well I was driving down the road Yesterday and all the sudden I lost engine power I could push the pedal all the way down but it wouldnt rev higher it just coasted too a stop I turned off the car and when I went to restart it...Nothing just a click when I turned the Ignition. Then multiple clicks after turning the ignition a couple times. Iv heard Timing chain maybe broke and jammed. I was thinking alternator but I charged the battery it had a full charge and still just a click.... Im leaning toward timing chain because someone said your chain drives the oil pump and seeing how the oil pressure gauge came on only when the noise started it kinda made sense....Please help.
Its time for another car Jerry.
The oil pressure light was telling you the engine was running on less than 10 psi of oil pressure, and the knock was a rod or main bearing.
Now that the engine has been run low on oil pressure for some time, one of the rod or main bearings is junk, and so is the engine.
By the time you replace the engine, even with a used one, you could take the same money and buy another car. Even if you took the engine apart and fixed the bad bearings, the rest of the engine parts are very weak from running without oil.
Testimonial: "Yea was the oil pump thats why the light was intermittent...Your right on the outcome but not the source Had enough oil in there for a v8 lmao... Appreciate it man "
SOURCE: 1989 Chevy Truck 350 Stalled Wont Start After I filled Gas Fuel
You need to check the fuel pressure to the TBI. I just fought one which was doing the same thing. I pulled the fuel tank to replace the fuel pump. It turned out to be the short hose from the fuel pump to the steel line coming out of the tank. It had a split in it so I wasn't getting enough fuel pressure. Some places show two pumps available. One you can pull the unit and replace just the pump. The other the pump and sender are all one unit. Hopefully you have the first one. The second is around $300.
The easiest way to get to the top of the tank is to pull the front 6 bolts mounting the bed and loosen the back two. Take the three screws from the filler neck and unhook the rear axle vent tube. You can then take an engine hoist and lift the front of the box. You can get right to the pump and gauge assemble in the top of the tank. Most times, this works easier than emptying the fuel tank and removing it.
SOURCE: 1995 Cavalier Z24 Car Wont Start
You either have a bad solenoid on your starter OR a bad ignition switch as these are the only two things that can cause the symptom you describe... I lean to the solenoid first, RARELY does an ignition switch sieze up in the start position but it is a possibility. Several national chain parts stores can test the starter for you (GM starters have the starter solenoid mounted directly to the starter and you need to remove the starter to get to it, so you would take the whole unit in to test it... REMEMBER to disconnect the battery first!)
SOURCE: 1993 lumina 3.1 dies going down the road, but starts again
Did you check the pressure with the vacuum hose to the regulator (if applicable) disconnected? Try driving the veh with the press gauge taped to the windshield. Got to replace the gas filter every three years or 30,000 miles or they clog up. The fuel pump armature may be worn and binding up. (new pump) It may just work okey but no volume. Now we go to the TPS. Throttle Position Sensor. Need a digital volt meter or scope to look at it. Worn or out of adjustment. Don't have the car here so it's not easy assume anything. You need too know the systems on a brand of veh and follow a flow chart of likely causes you develop over the years and keep notes for the next vehicle challange.
SOURCE: Start of day. Engine starts and runs fine. Drive 5
There are usually three things that cause this problem. Either 1. your car is intermittenly having the power supply to the ignition interrupted, i.e., loose battery cable or ground, or ignition module, etc 2. your alternator is failing intermittenly, or 3. Your fuel pump is going out. The most common is the fuel pump, especially with your symptoms. The way you test, is, when it won't start, shoot a little fuel into the throttle body, and see if it hits and dies, or hits and keeps going, etc. These things are notoriously intermittent, and of course, you can only troubleshoot something when it's currently not working. As for the alternator, you'll usually have some other warning sign, such as a battery light, or failure of instruments, etc. As for the ignition module, it's more of a remote chance that I included as an option. Hope this helps you out.
SOURCE: sluggish acceleration. High RPM, High Oil Pressure
I hope I'm wrong but I think your torque converter is failing. Sorry, Gary
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