My 1997 Toyota 4Runner Limited with 3.4L V6 engine has been a great car reliability wise. Last week both left and right headlights went off while driving at night. I switched to high beams and then they both went out after about a mile. The battery indicator also came on. All other lights, both interior and exterior were fine. Both filaments were blown (low and high beam on both left and right side headlight bulbs). I put DVM on battery and it showed 12.6vdc. Upon starting vehicle and turning on lights and AC, the voltage climbs to 14.3vdc. The battery light has not come back on but within days of replacing both headlight bulbs, both low beam filaments blew out while driving at night. What's up? Why just the headlight bulbs? Thanks, Brad King from San Antonio, Texas. E-mail address is [email protected].
Any chance that your alternator is producing excessive voltage at random times? This ties in with the lamp on the dash. Have it tested by an auto electrician with a good tester?
Only other thought is use a spray can of electrical contact cleaner in the sockets which connect onto the headlights and use a fine file (borrow the wife's steel nail file?) as corrosion on these contacts can cause arcing, which causes voltage spikes and heat, which causes corrosion, and them phut...
bulbs blow. Had this problem with 100w Cibie lights. Had to replace the connector otherwise bulbs would blow in decreasing intervals..18 months, then 9 months, finally down to less than a week....
Good luck...
Check the amps that are being drawn by the headlights. Compare that with what the bulb should be drawing using:
amps= watts / volts
I am going to guess its higher but not to the point of blowing the fuse for your lights. I would then start checking grounds.
Or, you used halogen bulbs and you touched the glass. I doubt they would both fail at the same time from that.
Testimonial: "Dear Chris, I appreciate your input and suggestions. The bulbs are Sylvania White Star halogens and have been in the vehicle for over a year. I did check the voltage and amperage draw and ohm's law put under the power specs. I am looking at connection issues and grounds but the battery tell-tale light coming on bothers me. Any other suggestions would be appreciated. And thanks you again. Brad King"
SOURCE: Daytime Running Lights Inoperative 2002 Toyota Camry
[Information] For a 2002 Toyota Camry, the Daytime
Running Lights (DRL) operate utilizing the High Beams (inner Lamps closer to
the center of the vehicle front) at a reduced power. [The troubleshooting process:] Review the Owner's Manual and ensure the test
configuration matches the following criteria: 2. Set the Test Conditions according to Step 1 above. 3. Check the headlight bulbs to ensure they are not
burned out. If one burns out, there is a fair chance that the other would have burned
out at the same time. Replace as necessary.
In this case, if the high beams operate, the DRLs should also operate. My problem was that the test configuration did not have
the engine running and parking brake off - Step 1. Problem solved with much
thought, repetitive tests on the vehicle and going back to the basics -- what
does the Owner's Manual say and where are the applicable fuses and relays
located?
1. According to the 2002 Toyota Camry Owner's Manual (Check your Owners Manual):
"The DRL system will make your headlights come on at a reduced brightness
when:
The light switch s in the "DRL" position.
The ignition is on with the engine running.
The headlight switch is off.
The parking brake is released."
4. Test the system, ensuring the step 1 conditions are set. (Engine running, Multi-function
Switch on Turn Signals in "DRL" position, headlight switch off
(repeating what the manual says -- it should be obvious that in the
"DRL" position, the headlight switch should be off / do not have the
switch positioned to "High Beam"), and the Parking Brake
"off").
5. If DRL lights do not work, check the engine compartment Fuse and Relay Box.
there is a 5 Amp DRL fuse -- replace it with the spare. Test (step 4).
6. If it does not work, swap around or replace relays -- there are three (3).
Any one of them could be bad (stuck or burned out). Test (step 4).
7. Other less likely possible issues
could be that the Multi-function Switch is broken or a connection / wire is
broken. [Beyond the scope of this
process.]
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