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My uno mia is heavy on fuel hard on start up and has a engine knock where could I look I set valve timing but don't get the marks for cam or crank

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SOURCE: cold start valve problem

if you have an electric cold start valve make sure to unplug it and if keeps apling fuel with electrical conector unpluged that means the valve is not good, but if not then you have an electronic problem, possible a bad cold start sensor or cold start module or cicuit problem, and might be a time to take it to an electrical shop

Posted on Jun 17, 2008

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Does anyone have a diagram for the timing marks on a case g188d diesel engine that I could see


if you know where the timing marks are supposed to be the use the old method of cam/crank timing to check and adjust to where the marks will be. Remove no 1 injector and turn the engine over until no 1 piston is coming up on injection stop when you reach TDC. mark on flywheel of harmonic balancer. If there is valve clearance ot both rockers turn the engine another 180 degrees and bring the piston to TDC again. watch the rockers and if you turn back a few degrees or turn forward a few degrees you will see ( in the forward direction) the exhaust valve closing and at the same time the inlet valve will be opening. This is known as valve rock. As you move the piston bacvk and forward over TDC you will see the valve movement. set on TDC and check the timing marks with the positions indicated. Remove and reposition the cam shaft gear to achieve the correct mark alignment or pull the cam shaft out just enough to realign the teeth to the mark. At the most you will be about 1 tooth out. The pump timing will be out 180 degrees as you are setting the valve timing on the induction stroke and you will need to turn the engine 180 degrees to compression stroke for the pump timing marks to line up. the injection mark on the flywheel is what you are looking for and when it is at the correct number of degrees as indicated by injection / lightning flash sign then the marks for the pump should be just about lined up

Dec 04, 2014 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Where does the cam mark for uno 1400 pacer points?


If the engine is an interference type, you will have some valve and piston damage. Typically the timing marks are on the crank shaft and the cam shaft, under the timing cover.

Oct 29, 2014 | 1989 Fiat Uno 1.4

1 Answer

Setting timing marks


no start is a whole other matter. (double posted)
my guess (???) you put i a new cam belt to this DOHC engine?
1: new belt
2: timed it right.
3: turn engine by hand , to feel the valves not hit piston tops.? spark plugs out.
4: did a 4 cyl, leak down test with the guage. to see if valve are ALREADY bent, this step saves making them worse. if already damaged, or if the cam is wrong now.
(bravery starts here)
5: you crank it over, and checked for spark, ok got spark x4 and is timed right, (will be wrong, if cam is wrong, for sure, big hint here.)
6: got spark ?, good compression?, and now we try test fuel.
I spray test fuel into the plenum (if not flooding already)
yes, runs for 3 seconds, (good engine is good, but no fueling)
no, engine is bad. spark is timed wrong, or cam timed wrong.

just 6 steps.... if you do them you can save this motor. or at the least
prevent cascade damage.

the goal here is to get it to run on test fuel, , we can fix fueling issues
now.. as the engine is good. a major goal of many.

Jan 30, 2014 | Geo Storm Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

TIMING SETTINGS FOR FIAT UNO


timing marks ? bottom pulley with crank keyway pointing upwards and cam ? sorry just cannot remember offhand but this is a valve free engine ,with no1 at TDC the inlet and exhaust valves are pointing up and out on the no1 then if i remember rightly the mark on camshaft gear is pointing directly in line with the right side of the head ? or is that the peugeot ,if i had a memory ? Sorry just cannjot remember but a 94 has a distributor on the back of the cam and the rotor arm will pointing at the no1 plug lead on the cap .

Feb 20, 2013 | 1994 Fiat Uno

2 Answers

I need to know how to set the timing marks on the distributor for a 85 z24


I'm showing the first Cavalier Z24 being sold in 1988 with a 2.8 engine.
I'm not sure what you mean by marks, normally you would like up the marks on the crank pulley and turn the distributor to the point where the rotor is pointing to the number one cylinder plug wire.
If the distributor has been out of the engine, you will be on or 180 degrees off.
Once you get the engine started, you would use a timing light to set base timing.

Feb 07, 2013 | 1985 Nissan Pickup

1 Answer

I had a valve regrind and need to time the 2.0 kia Sprtage


You need a factory repair manual. Don't risk getting the wrong answer from here. If you do it wrong you can bend valves and you will have to start all over again.

Apr 22, 2012 | 1999 Kia Sportage

1 Answer

I have a 1998 GMC Sierra, when I start it in the morning it makes a knocking noise but once it warms up it goes away, what could be causing this?


We really need to know more about what kind of knocking you are hearing.

Pinging, clink clink, sounds like the time you got bad gas and put a strain on the engine causing it to knock. Airflow sensor telling the injectors how rich or lean to mix the fuel. Computer sets fuel air mix. timing , ect to match operating temp and if it is going bad throws the whole thing out of balance.

Ticking... click click click sound from the top of the engine that gradually fades,,( lifters on cam and valve chatter) sticking lifters can be treated with oil additive to clean them out if they aren't stopped up to bad. If that doesn't work or the noise keeps getting louder you need to have someone look at it or you can damage your cam or bend a valve and that can lead to a cascade failure of cam. lifters, valves and possible broken pistons.

Knocking. KNOCK KNOCK knock knock,from the bottom of the engine that fades ( rod bearing worn and slapping the crank til it gets enough oil to float it on the crankshaft or crank bearings worn and bearings trying to spin in the races)
If it is a hard knock could be a worn rod bearing or a partially stopped up oil port in the crankshaft that doesn't let the oil do its thing until it is warmed up. This problem can be slowed down with cleaning additives but the damage has already been done and will do nothing but get worse over time. If it is a bottom end bearing don't let it totally fail. If you have a mechanic you trust get him to listen to it and help you figure out what needs to be done. Once you have heard these noises and have someone point out the differences you don't forget them.
Remember. Sooner you get this figured out the less damage done and the cheaper the repair bill will be.

Jun 12, 2010 | 1998 GMC Sierra

1 Answer

Cranks, but no start. spark and fuel good, no


cam timming is possibly out due to gear reduction set up in heads
suggest remove rocker covers and make sure cam lobes are in this possition as well as all other timming marks luckily these engines (V6) are free wheeling (wont bend valves) set up like pic below

5b1d17c.jpg

Nov 03, 2009 | 1998 Isuzu Trooper

2 Answers

I have fire and fule I just replaced the spark plugs and redid the timeing and it still wont start what ellse can I do?


are the injectors opening? fuel pressure doesn't mean the injectors are delivering any fuel to the cylinders, does the system have any trouble codes? if u are not sure if the injectors are getting a signal buy a NOID tester from NAPA or a tool dealer like Snap-On, it is very easy to use, plug it onto the fuel injector connector and crank the engine, if the injectors are getting a signal the light will flash, it is kinda hard to see so do it in the evening, if the injectors are not working then check to see if the computer has power, if the computer checks ok then u may have an issue with the engine wiring harness, very common on this car. also make sure the timing belt is ok.

Aug 27, 2009 | 1990 Subaru Legacy

2 Answers

Cambelt change on uno turbo


By now you probably have the cam/timing belt changed on the vehicle... Here goes anyway: I changed the belt on my 1372cc (identical engine - except for the Turbo and a few odds & ends) just over a week ago by following this simple process:

Disconnect the battery negative terminal
Remove the timing belt cover
Loosen the alternator drive belt nut, tilt towards engine and remove the belt
Remove the crankshaft pulley nut (size 36) - do this by selecting top gear and have an assistant press hard on the brake pedal - remove the pulley -the timing belt is now exposed.
Using paint or tippex, simply mark the camshaft sprocket as it lies with the inside timing belt cover, do the same on the crankshaft sprocket & the auxiliary shaft sprocket.
Loosen the tensioner nut - remove the timing belt.
Check that all pulleys are still in alignment according to your markings and refit the new belt by starting on the crankshaft sprocket (the thin white line across the new belt must align with the factory marking on the crankshaft pulley) and over the auxiliary sprocket and finally over the camshaft sprocket - tension the belt with the tensioner and tighten the tensioner nut.
Rotate the engine clockwise by hand making sure the camshaft sprocket rotates twice, check the tension on the belt and make sure the tensioner nut is fully tightened and the belt is secure.
Refit the crankshaft pulley, making sure the nut is tightened and refit the alternator belt, timing cover and reconnect the battery.

The same procedure is applicable on the 999cc/1108cc FIRE models as well as the 1301cc Turbo.

Good luck.


Apr 14, 2009 | Fiat 124 Cars & Trucks

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