Question about 2006 Nissan Sentra
The back hatch of my nissan has jammed, half open, half shut. When I try to open it, it makes the noise but doesn't open further, and when I try to close it, it won't shut.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: MY 1996 NISSAN SENTRA HORN
Just buy a new one. It will be much more of a problem when you try to repair a defective horn. However! Check the wiring, fuse, and switches first if they work, if they are all okay, then go buy a new horn. An electrician can check if those components are working so you can pinpoint which ones to replace. You can do it yourself though, but I'm not an expert at that so I can't really teach you how.
Posted on Jun 08, 2011
SOURCE: Nissan sentra 1993 1.6 l
Make sure you have the plug wires on the correct plug. Check the
ignition timming to make sure it is correct. After running for a few
minutes pull the pluggs to see whitch cylinders are running rich. The
fuel pressure and volume need to be tested.
1993 Nissan Sentra 1.6 liter DOHC L4 (GA16DE)
Additionally, try checking the power transistor. I will send the test. Also make sure the coil has a good ground...
Hope this helps; keep us updated.
Posted on Jul 13, 2011
check fuel pump, fuel pump fuse, distributor,and ignition coil please. then you will need to check crank position sensor.(to do this you need to find factory service manual)
Posted on Nov 23, 2011
There are several things that can cause your fog lamps to not work. The fog lamp circuits need to be diagnosed. Your entire fog lamp circuit can be tested at the plug for the fog lamp relay located n the relay box.
PIN 5 on the relay should have battery power at all times. This power comes from Fuse #43 (15 Amp) in the fuse and fusible link box in the engine compartment. If there is power at this pin, the fuse and the circuit between the fuse and the relay is good.
PIN 3 on the relay goes to the fog lamp bulbs. There should be continuity to ground through the bulbs on this pin. If you have continuity to ground, connecting a jumper wire between PIN 5 and PIN 3 should make the fog lamps come on unless there is a short circuit to ground, which will cause Fuse #43 to blow. If there is no continuity to ground on this pin, the problem is either that BOTH fog lamp bulbs are burned out or there is a break in the wire between the relay and the bulbs.
PIN 1 Is the battery power for the primary coil in the relay. This power comes from the headlamp switch and power is only supposed to be present here when the headlamps are on and the dimmer switch is on LOW BEAM. If power is not present at this pin, the problem is a bad headlamp switch or an open circuit between the headlamp switch and the relay.
PIN 2 Is the control circuit for the primary relay coil. The control circuit should have continuity to ground when the fog lamp switch is set to the ON position. If there is no continuity to ground with the fog lamp switch on, the problem is a faulty fog lamp switch, an open between the relay and the fog lamp switch, or an open between the fog lamp switch and ground E37 (right front of engine compartment) and ground F7 (left rear of engine compartment) Please note: This circuit has redundant grounds....if one ground is not making good contact, the other ground can still make the circuit work.
PIN 4 on the relay is not used.
If all of the circuits/pins are working as described above, replace the relay.
That is pretty much it... That is all you really need to know to get your fog lamp circuits diagnosed. Let me know if you need further assistance.
Posted on May 13, 2012
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