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Solex 40/44 eis troubleshooting

Motor pops at idle a little like a lean misfire,then it will fully backfire upon full throttle acceleration cap,rotor,plugs,wires all good

Posted by Anonymous on

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6ya6ya
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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 74 Answers

SOURCE: starting hesitation, replaced plugs, wires,

timeing off or need a timeing chain

Posted on Jul 26, 2008

  • 201 Answers

SOURCE: Bogging while heavy accelration.

vacuum advance working ? do manuel check with cap and rotor button off and see if it's moving. chris

Posted on May 08, 2009

  • 67 Answers

SOURCE: 98 dodge ram 1500 5.9 multiple cyl misfire. cyl 1

did you check to verify that you have the wires in the correct order possible distributor pick up bad

Posted on Nov 12, 2009

Molson02536
  • 3854 Answers

SOURCE: 1996 chevy k1500 misses at idle and backfires

Try cleaning your MAF sensor, and check your IAT (intake air temperature). A dirty MAF sensor can cause your engine to run lean and a faulty IAT can throw off your ECM's program causing a conflict to your timing and fuel injection pulse.

Thank you for using Fixya and good luck.

Posted on Apr 01, 2010

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: my jeep idles rough but on acceleration is

hola como puedo saber cual es el problema con mi 96 grancheerokie cada vez que acelero despues de 1500 rpm el motor pierde fuerza y avienta explociones por el throurolbody ya cambie los sparkplugs,cables, rotor, cap y el motor ya esta a tiempo herreravazquez2006@yahoo.com

Posted on Apr 07, 2010

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Will "bogg" down under depressed acceleration and lower RPM's. Wondering if you have any suggestions? See below for what I've done already.


Raw fuel from the tail pipe I would think maybe a bad TPS, fuel pressure regulator or injector. More than likely a bad regulator or throttle position sensor. Check your fuel pressure after the regulator at idle and wide open throttle. At an idle the pressure should be 20-30 psi lower than at wide open throttle. If your getting to much fuel pressure it can cause it to bog down and lose power due to extremely rich conditions.Will also have strong exhaust fumes.

Nov 24, 2014 | 1996 Suzuki Sidekick

1 Answer

What is settin the po300 random multiple misfire/?


you have a bed coil (s). That's what causes misfire. Your DIC should be specific about which cylinder coil you're having trouble with.

Apr 28, 2014 | Volvo S80 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

4.3l backfires through throttle body


check the firing order as it indicates 2 wires crossed

Jun 30, 2017 | 2000 Chevrolet Blazer

1 Answer

92 NISSAN WITH BOGGING AT 2800 3500 RPM AND AT LEVEL SPEED 4CYL AND 5 SPEED


For this types of problem,there are few help inks to troubleshoot the problem.Click the link below to go through the troubleshooting procedure to resolve the issues :----Idles rough and quits when gas pedal is pressed less? http://technoanswers.blogspot.in/2012/01/1999-ford-f-150-idles-rough-and-quits.html-----------van idles rough? http://howtobyme.blogspot.in/2012/01/2004-ford-freestar-van-idles-rough.html
--------------runs lean and idles rough? http://technoanswers.blogspot.in/2012/02/ford-runs-lean-and-idles-rough.html
-----------Car still runs Rough after tune up? http://howtobyme.blogspot.com/2011/12/car-still-runs-rough-after-tune-up.html
------------Idle flair is noticed on car? Rough idle? car will not idle? Erratic idle speed? http://technoanswers.blogspot.in/2012/02/idle-flair-is-noticed-on-car-rough-idle.html
----------High rpm in neutral? Inconsistant high RPM in neutral? http://technoanswers.blogspot.in/2012/02/high-rpm-in-neutral-inconsistant-high.html
------------Engine Backfires? http://technoanswers.blogspot.in/2012/02/jeep-backfires.html----------- Nissan stalls and bucks on Acceleration?

http://technoanswers.blogspot.in/2012/02/nissan-pathfinder-stalls-and-bucks-on.html

-----------
Nissan Pathfinder Backfires? http://technoanswers.blogspot.in/2012/02/nissan-pathfinder-backfires.html
---------How to adjust rpm? http://schematicsdiagram.blogspot.com/2011/12/how-to-adjust-rpm-on-2009-dodge-charger.html
------------Engine cuts out at 3000 RPM? http://schematicsdiagram.blogspot.com/2011/12/engine-cuts-out-at-3000-rpm.html
----------This will help.Thanks.

Feb 17, 2012 | 1992 Nissan Pickup

3 Answers

1997 chevy cheyenne c2500...i get a popping noise when i press the accelerator...help meeeeee please...197,000miles i frustrated


Does it idle smooth or rough? Steady loping miss at idle? Loses power as rpm's increase? I'm a shadetree mechanic, and even though your engine is a vortec, it still uses these parts, so you may find this useful.

Make sure your plug wires are good, start it after dark, raise the hood, in darkness you should see tiny sparks jumping from the wires if they are bad.

Most likely cause of my intake backfiring was #5 & #7 plug wires switched. Bad plug wires can also short onto each other and cause the wrong cylinder to fire while it's intake valve is still open, igniting back into the intake. 350 chevy firing order is 18436572. #5 & #7 are on the driver side, the closest to the back. #7 fires right after #5, by switching them I had caused #5 to fire too late / #7 too early hitting the accelerator causes the spark timing to advance, firing #7 while the intake valve was still closing, sending flame up into the raw fuel charged intake, causing the explosion or POP under the hood. The symptom I had was rough idle, stumbling / popping on acceleration, which got much worse as it warmed up.

OTHER PROBLEMS TO LOOK AT:
replace fuel filter, and have a mechanic check the fuel pressure. He can tell you whether the pressure regulator or the fuel pump is bad. Low fuel pressure will lead to engine damage as you'll see below. It causes the combustion gases to run too hot, warping valves.

I have a 95 c2500 with 350 Throttle body injection(not vortec), the problem I had was multiple. The timing chain was extremely worn out, causing erratic timing. The fuel pump was bad( causing loss of power as rpm increased)( letting that continue for 6 mos caused several intake and exhaust valves to overheat, warp and burn). The Throttle position sensor was bad, causing transmission shifting / slamming at odd rpms, and possibly contributing to the popping(backfiring up through the intake). The temp sensor on the intake was bad(cold temp fuel mixture control), and the oxygen sensor on the exhaust pipe had the wires pulled out of it(warm temp fuel mixture control). The spark control module also was bad(causes misfires). Later I also had 2 spark plug wires that were on the wrong plugs(the main cause of the intake backfiring). It is an old work truck, 190,000 miles, many parts/gallons of sweat later, now it runs strong. These motors are worth repairing, as long as the oil-pressure is good and the compression is still decent. I've had 3 vehicles before this one, same motor, great mileage, power and reliability. I've heard the vortecs are even better, as long as the oil gets changed regularly.

Start cheap. Try each item, if that is not it, go to the next( or spend a hundred or so on a full diagnostic by a well established mechanic(not a tire installer who just started his ASE studies. good engine diagnosis requires years of experience and teardowns to be able to determine the causes while running) :
1.) While engine is running in park, use plastic pliers(shock protection, be careful!!!) to remove and reconnect a plug wire at the coil. Listen for a change in the idle speed and smoothness. Move to the next if you hear a change, this means that that plug and wire are working properly(disconnecting them causes the motor to idle up, run rougher). If unplugging them doesn't cause a change: That wire or plug is likely bad. take both to an autoparts store to be tested. Replace the problem part, if that does not fix a miss, see #2 below.
2.) Do a cylinder compression test, to see if you have any valve issues. I bought a $40 compression tester kit. It takes about an hour, but it will tell you alot about the engines health. Mine had a range of 140-170 psi, except for #1( 0 psi, cracked and torched valve) and #7(120 psi, warped valve), I had to pull the intake and that head off for replacement valves(got lucky, cast iron head was not warped)
3.)pull, test(a mechanic can do this) and if necessary replace the throttle position sensor($23 part on tbi motors). This tells the computer how much gas pedal you are using. If it is bad, you fuel mixture will be erratic and can cause misfires, and your transmission may be shifting weird / hard.
4.) Replace the spark plugs with original AC Delco, use good wires, cap and rotor. Cheaper parts can have too much resitance to electric flow, causing poor running. I switched from autolite platinums--> to Delco = huge difference.
5.) If the timing chain is original. It is time, trust me. Mine had so much slop, I was amazed it had not jumped a tooth. This will cause poor power / erratic idle / possible backfiring if really advancing / retarding ignition. Unless you are a mechanic, this is not recommended for do it yourself. The upper radiator housing, fan, waterpump, timing cover and oil-pan have to be dropped and regasketed afterwards. Hours of fun.

my truck sequence of events:
Bought spring '08, noticed poor power / slight miss, replaced plugs wires cap rotor, repaired rear brake line rust-out, new tires, mechanic replaced fuel filter, advised fuel pump was not putting out enough pressure, tried ignoring and drove till fall--> developed REALLY severe miss( no intake backfiring), barely made it home.

Starting this spring: Compression test --> valve issues, removed all front engine components(alt, P.S.(pressed on pulley will need a puller kit to remove)), intake manifold and driverside cylinderhead(found a hole in #1 exhaust valve big enough to slide pencil through), had 4 valves replaced at machine shop, reassembled engine, dropped gastank, replaced fuelpump assembly and fuel-lines(rusted), replaced oxy sensor on exhaust manifold, started motor and set timing(while computer timing wire was disconnected under dashboard), ran rough / intake backfiring upon any acceleration, erratic timing, replaced timing chain = steady timing, still ran rough/backfire though, replaced temp sensor(no change), tested barometric pressure module = ok, replaced distributor(unnecessary), replaced throttle position sensor = ran a little better/still backfiring/ transmission problem fixed too, ran resistance check on wires with ohmmeter-->found #5 & #7 plug wires were switched, fixed that, ran great, replaced exaust system behind the converter, sounds great / runs great / lesson learned. If a mechanic advises a repair, get a second opinion... but don't ignore it, it creates bigger problems, like torched valves.
Good luck.

Apr 28, 2009 | 1995 Chevrolet C2500

2 Answers

1994 camaro 3.4 v6. backfiring and poping through intake.


I had the same problem, thinking it was bad gas, or bad wires, or even a clogged fuel filter, had the engine checked out by a reputable gear head. A head bolt broke, then a intake lobe from cylinder #4 spun round thus causing your car to constantly backfire, also check to see if your head gaskets aren't blown (water-n-oil), all these were found once the engine was disassembled. Good luck trying to find a good used 3.4

Mar 22, 2009 | 1995 Chevrolet Camaro

1 Answer

94 mazda626 v6


sounds like faulty cam shaft or crankshaft postioning sensor, or could be simple timing problem check belt positioning and allignment marks in repair manual if correct check sensors (details in troubleshooting section of repair manual) if still stumped either buy a OBDI scanner and have at it easy to use, or take it to a shop with OBDI diagnostics. also sometimes even a faulty oxygen sensor can do that, or air mass sensor ut to be sure scan it!

Jul 11, 2008 | 1992 Mazda 626

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